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1968 C10 DD, project "New Tricks"

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New hood hinges are in place too. WOW it's like butter now.

Still doesn't close perfect each time, too many motions to duplicate I guess. I got the hood gaps as good as they'll get. Worked hard on it for a while and had to tell myself "it's no show truck, I didn't fit/cut/trim/add anything before painting".
 
Really like this project. I have thought about one for the bride as a daily driver. Even came close to dropping the 10k on it for her 40th.
 
Ah man I didnt even have to read to get that answer, its in a picture earlier... on the same page too [FONT=&quot]:doah:[/FONT]
 
Gotta spend some solid time working on a box for the filler cap. Need to get the measurements figured out and have someone cut the pieces, that way they are straight and square. Can't hide bad work here. Weld it up and mount.

I think working on the radius for the rubber filler tube is going to be toughest. I can't have the rubber tube end up below the gas tank nipple. It doesn't bend easily. If it does end up lower, it will have gas sitting and I've been warned against that from the hose manufacturer. I also need to drill and tap the filler cap for a vent tube. It may be a 2" fill, but without a vent tube it's going to choke during fill up. Just gotta work it out, take the bed off and on a couple times and finalize it.

Also still working out the tailgate. ClassicIndustries confirmed something is wrong by checking their tailgate to handle interference. Mine is hitting when trying to use the handle, so I'm not sure if the gate is staying or not.....so I haven't completely finished bolting down the bed side. :(
 
There is a pretty slick gas tank install over on 67-72 trucks where they ran the fill neck under the license plate. Can't find the link right now I'll see if I can find it.
 
If you can post that, it would be awesome. But if you don't, that's probably cause their damn "search" button has been missing for weeks.

However, looking at the gas tank vs. rear bumper position, the tank would have to be dropped significantly for the filler hose to line up. Right now, the tank is hidden just behind my hitch/bumper. Any lower and it would be seen.

I think the gas door will work fine, just gotta dedicate more time to it. :(
 
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=522264

Here it is. Pretty slight angle for fueling but neat idea none the less. When I get around to this on my 72 I will either be doing through the bed or like this.


Edit: Just read through your whole build...excellent work sir! Makes me want to tear mine all apart....but I enjoy driving it to much for now!
 
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Thanks for the link. Just read it over.

Seems like he's having a filling issue with it, might just be the missing vent tube. For me however, I've already got tons of $$$ into this custom EFI tank from Boyd's. It won't work for this application. I also have a hidden hitch that goes through the license plate. I looked at it briefly before work this morning and the two things want to occupy the same space. :(
 
Ya i noticed that reading through your thread the spout would be facing the wrong way to make it work. I plan to stick with a carbed motor for mine something in the big block fashion so I might consider trying to make that work, the filling issues bother me though.
 
The other thing to consider is that with the filler sticking straight back, when you get on the gas pedal hard, it tends to spew gas out the cap. I had a couple of friends over the years with '69 and '70 Nova's. Both cars puked gas like that.
 
6872xtc said:
The other thing to consider is that with the filler sticking straight back, when you get on the gas pedal hard, it tends to spew gas out the cap. I had a couple of friends over the years with '69 and '70 Nova's. Both cars puked gas like that.
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Yeah, there was a mention of that too. I wonder if that could be solved with a non-vented cap. Just vent it elsewhere.

Rear sway bar installed to complement the front. I'm not overly impressed with it right now. I wish it was closer to the axle and really should have been designed to be. There are a few other kits out there that put the bar really close. RideTech has a three piece sway bar and mounting kit that looks super nice. I've also seen some guys adapt Camaro bars and run them to the rear of the axle, near the gas tank. Kinda digging that.

I'm already eying other things and that's bad LOL. I just need to finish this and keep stepin. Plus, the property I rent was just sold and the new owner is already raising the rent :( Takes a big bite out of funds.



 
Man, how quickly brand new paint looks crappy when it sits outside. Boy I wish I had a garage for this. It AND my blazer would have been done WAY faster. :doah:
 
So I finally got a little something done on the truck.

Boy, it took a while to figure out the engine harness and placement. Just one of those days where the brain doesn't want to see what's in front of it.

Most of the wires are plugged in. But I'm not sure where a few of the others go. I might have to start another thread for those answers, hopefully not. Here's what it looks like after today:







I used one of the booster mounting holes for the DBW computer, worked out nice cause I only had 2 nice stainless Allens sitting around for the other holes. Wires reach perfect to the peddle, using the old clutch hole and grommet.

I think the ECM will be mounted on the wheel well. Seems out of the way and half decent looking. I can't see feeding the massive wires inside the cab, just to mount the ECM under the dash. It lived under the hood before and while not the cleanest looking.....it can live there again. The small engine fuse panel will be mounted near the ECM or as close to the firewall as possible. I need to reach the OBD2 port to plug in the Dakota Digital gauges.


 
And here are the wires I'm not sure about.

This first one is down the driver side. 3 plugs total. One is for the O2 sensor, one of the purple ones is for the oil pressure I believe, but I don't know what the other purple one is for. The picture shows their length, pretty much stopping behind the head.






Second one is passenger side.
2 plugs run down this side. One of them is O2 sensor again and the other is actually a ground ring. (you can kinda see it center of picture) Does anyone know where this was ground? Just any ol' place sound good?






Third is a tail coming off the main trunk of the harness. It has 3 weather pack connectors and a grounding ring. I haven't a clue where they go or what direction they go in. I was under the impression, when I disconnected everything, that the harness would be labeled after the modifications were done. I read it would be, but I'm guessing now that was only for the actually modification. :doah:








Lastly
What is this and where does it go :haha::confused:


 
Stomis said:
Looking good. No MAF for a DD?
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Babaganoosh said:
Looks great dude.:thumb: like above did you go speed density?
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Yes, speed density. I removed the VATS system thing in the intake, drilled the hole larger and tapped it for the new sensor. Under the "vortec" hood is where it's located. I had BD Turnkey do the harness and I asked him to leave the MAF plug in tact. It's tucked nicely under the plastic. If I ever wanted to go back, I can with a simple programming change.

Otherwise, I think it will be fine. My blazer has no MAF and it drives nice :D Also, you can't run a MAF with boost. Not that I would go putting turbos on things :haha: no really, I'm not :haha:
 
I think that is a heat side is for the starter if I remember correctly.
And the long wire you are holding in front of the motor, I'm trying to remember but I think it run down the front of the motor behind the alternator (could have a plug for it or even the water temp that is on the front of the driverside head) and across to the factory ac and to the starter. May have a plug for on the front of the motor for VVT.
 
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