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1969 C10

Slow process of putting it back together.
Overview Gallery Discussion
Body pannel lining is almost an art.
Patient and practice. Shims most of the time, oblong holes other, even redrilling holes.
When you frustrated step back have a cup, smoke'm if you got'm
Then try again.

You can do it Michael Angelo
 
Wes Harden said:
Body pannel lining is almost an art.
Patient and practice. Shims most of the time, oblong holes other, even redrilling holes.
When you frustrated step back have a cup, smoke'm if you got'm
Then try again.

You can do it Michael Angelo
Click to expand...
Dude, I was dripping in sweat, look like rain on the driveway. It's so hot and humid out here plus a dust storm was rolling in. I had to give up for the day.

Can the hinges be shimmed as well?
 
I thought that I posted about how to rotate the hood hinges on their mounting bolts to pull the rear of the hood down, but...

With the hood open,
Loosen the rear bolts on the fender side of the hinge, then loosen the forward one some, but not completely loose. Then lift up on the front of hood and watch for the main body of the hinge to rotate backwards and down in the rear.
Hold the hod up with a broom handle or something if you don't have a helper, then retighten all of the bolts.
Then when you close the hood to check, watch to make sure that it doesn't run into the cowl or fenders. If it needs to move forward, towards the grille, then slide it on the hood to hinge bolts.

I have actually been able to pull a hood down too far with theis technique, but I am always working with worn, factory parts.
The side to side alignment can sometimes be dealt with by pushing sideways on the hood when it is open. Then the rubber bumpers do the final alignment.

Yes, you need to have the front sheetmetal group square enough to fit the hood, but it takes some initial setting up to determine what needs to move where.
 
3 hours later and it's better. About where it was with the old hinges, which I can live with.... for now.

I do notice that the hood pulls to the passenger side when the hood pin engages. Making that gap wider on the driver side.

But if I adjust the hood pin area, then the secondary latch barely catches. When I had the hood latch off it was fine enough, better than with it on.

I tried removing the driver hood rubber bumpers and it made no difference.

But it's already super humid at hot. So Im calling it good enough.

And no matter what I did I cannot get the driver side cowel to fit lower, you can see from that gap there isnt much room
to fit better.. It's either too low and runs into the cowel or where it is now. If there is a middle ground, it eluded me. So...compared to the above images it looks far better.

My only other option that I see, is to make the holes bigger on the rear hinge slots (closets to the cowel) allowing me to push them down a bit more. But I'm not trying to win gap awards, so it'll do for now. I'll wait until October when weather cools.

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Shimmed cowel and it's better
Pics before engaging the hood pin, the lines look good. Once the hood pin is engaged it pushes to the passenger side...

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After the hood pin is engaged...you can see the gap increase on the driver side.
Is there a way to adjust the hood locking bracket to the driver side a tad, the last picture

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You can see it's like 1/4- 1/2 off..

I can try loosing it up on the hood and see if there is any play..

Loosened hood pin up, it's closer but not by much.

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TJ1978 said:
You can see it's like 1/4- 1/2 off..

I can try loosing it up on the hood and see if there is any play..

Loosened hood pin up, it's closer but not by much.

View attachment 417470
Click to expand...
You can shift the core support left or right a bit, or technically the brackets that connect the core support to the fenders. It’s kind of a pain.
 
Hood pin moved. I think this is as good as I can get it or I have the patience for at this point. Driver side by cowel
is still up a bit I may be able to get it down a bit but.......

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You can shim fenders too.

In my past experience, if the hood hinges are good and adjusted well, and the hood still pops up at cowl I get newand or heavier springs.
 
Passenger fender is shimmed already. Springs are new as well.

I'm happy enough with how it is now. Only a discerning eye can really see, to the passerby I doubt they'll even notice, and if they do, they can try to make it better or keep on moving

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Wes Harden said:
You can shim fenders too.

In my past experience, if the hood hinges are good and adjusted well, and the hood still pops up at cowl I get newand or heavier springs.
Click to expand...
The heavier springs are counter productive in my experience. Any play in the hinge pivots is amplified, even if they are new.
I have always been able to pull the rear of the hood down with the hinges at the fender on these old trucks. May have to revisit them after time and wear though.
I did have one that required some slotting of the holes in the hinge base.

The hood latch pin AND the plate that it's in should move some.
But yes, sometimes the front clip needs shifted slightly. I have had to figure out "square" a couple of times on a front end. Patience can run low sometimes.

I still think that the hood needs a decent push sideways when open to help the new hinges learn what to do. Lots of people would be shocked at how some things get into alignment with some methods. I have done the wood block and an 6lb sledge on some KW and International doors. Just have to protect the paint.

Great progress @TJ1978 !
 
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