CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

1971 K5 Blazer (paint, hardtop, and .....)

Just picked up my '71 recently. Always wanted a 1st Gen Blazer! It's in good shape mechanically and a lot of the rust was removed. Lucked out and have access to a shop to work on it and keep it parked inside.

Not looking to build a show car, but I want it to look good and be reliable. I plan to use this for camping, tooling around town, and runs to the hardware store. I attached a bunch of "before" photos for posterity.

The first tasks I'm working on:
  1. Cut off the rear truck bumper, buy and install a chrome bumper with brackets
  2. Buy a hardtop! The soft top will not cut it for the Northwest winters. I've located a top without a hatch in Portland from a forum member.....but I'd really like a hatch lined up or a whole top.
  3. The previous owner sanded or cut off some metal by the top of the windshield on each side (pics attached). I have some small pieces of steal cut to size and need to weld them in.
  4. Paint the body and redo seals
If anyone has a lead on a hardtop near Seattle, please let me know. I'll upload some pics over the next few days of the rear bumper assembly....it's all welded and looks nutty. I will need some help as to what goes and where to mount the correct bumper brackets.

Also, the horn isn't hooked up....but I found an air horn setup? Not sure how to connect it though, pics included.

Just wanted to get this started! Thanks in advance for any help, I'll need it!

View attachment 220020

View attachment 220021

View attachment 220022

View attachment 220023

View attachment 220024

View attachment 220025

View attachment 220026

View attachment 220027

View attachment 220028

View attachment 220029

View attachment 220030

View attachment 220031

View attachment 220032

View attachment 220033

View attachment 220034

View attachment 220035
Awesome find. Congrats and enjoy it.
 
I bought a parts truck to get the top and any other usable parts off of it. That might be a option as well.
 
Yeah I didn't have room either. So I had to get the parts off quick and resell what was left to get rid of it. Bought the parts truck for 350 and took what i needed. Then resold it for 250 as a shell. Worked out pretty good.
 
Decided to start with the mechanical end of things 1st. Since I'm a noob, I took it to the mechanic to do a little work and give me a "to do list". They were cool and even put it up on the rack to show me what is needed. I've secured a permanent spot in my friend's nearby shop (with full lift and goodies) and I'm ready to get going this month.

My list:
  • front R drive line, u-joint is really loose
  • timing cover is leaking oil
  • crank seal is leaking
  • oil pan is leaking
  • transfer case leaking at speedo cable
  • rear diff is leaking at pinion seal
  • shift shaft seal is leaking

My friend is quite a mechanic and I'll be checking with him often. Should I source my seals at RockAuto or is a local chain ok? While I'm at it, should I replace the front L u-joint as well? I'll get under it in the next few days and identify all my parts (tranny, rear end, etc...).
 
When I compare parts local vs rock auto, or even amazon, the prices can be up to half as much when getting them online. Now the returning part is more complicated when online, and you have to wait, but if you have time, and since you have a good spot for the blazer, you may want to source first online what you know you need.

Then follow-up locally for parts needed same day, or if you are unsure if you will actually use it, and need the ability to easily return an item.

That's just how I have done it. Summit/jegs also have good prices on some parts, and for me in the SF Bay area, get here quick from Summit.

Just my 2 cents.
 
When I compare parts local vs rock auto, or even amazon, the prices can be up to half as much when getting them online. Now the returning part is more complicated when online, and you have to wait, but if you have time, and since you have a good spot for the blazer, you may want to source first online what you know you need.

Then follow-up locally for parts needed same day, or if you are unsure if you will actually use it, and need the ability to easily return an item.

That's just how I have done it. Summit/jegs also have good prices on some parts, and for me in the SF Bay area, get here quick from Summit.

Just my 2 cents.


I like it. I'll start online and go local for that "last minute" part.
 
Seat question. Right now I have some more modern high-back bucket seats. I believe they are '80's highbacks? Pictures included for reference. The passenger side one hits the windshield when a passenger tries to get in. It's annoying.

When I picked up my hardtop, they guy had a '72 GMC Jimmy with the wider utility buckets and I liked them. Found some recently in Oregon, but the mount pattern was quite different. Does that mean I'm limited to the more narrow Sport Buckets? My rig is a '72.

IMG_20161127_194101.jpg

IMG_20161127_194104.jpg
 
You can check how the bracket mount to the seats. I believe mine has 4 screws that hold them on. Might be able to make them work if you can modify the brackets too. Weld in new footplates to line up to the correct bolt holes.
 
You can check how the bracket mount to the seats. I believe mine has 4 screws that hold them on. Might be able to make them work if you can modify the brackets too. Weld in new footplates to line up to the correct bolt holes.

Ok, I'll look at the seats I have a bit closer.

I rolled the carpet back to double check and didn't see any other mount holes. Should I be looking for the Sport Buckets to directly bolt in?
 
I've used two different style drivers seats and that fit fine. Pickups and blazer used the same mounts. I have to make new feet for the passenger side. But I'm pretty sure the passenger side is going to be your problem. If the bottom of the seat is the same width where it bolts up you may be able to use the brackets you have. Or possible to modify where it bolts to the utility seat by welding up a new plate to where it sits on the bracket.
 
You could possibly source a new bracket from a vender. McMaster Carr has a bunch of different brackets that could possibly work.
 
Still picking away at my mechanical list, getting close! Decided to do all the external oil seals on the block since I'm already diving in head first.

Quick question on the floor pan. When I pulled out the brand new carpet, I found some bonus rust and crusty sheet metal along the back half of the cab. The spots where the seats mount. The PO had replaced the front portion of the cab floor (foot wells and rockers).

Is the rear half of the floor-pan on a '71-'72 truck the same? I have a lead on a great looking one, I just have to cut it out.
 
Floors are the same from 69-72. Any donor from those years should work fine.

Is this damage near the front seats or rear seats??..... hard to tell from your comment.


-G
 
Floors are the same from 69-72. Any donor from those years should work fine.

Is this damage near the front seats or rear seats??..... hard to tell from your comment.


-G

Sorry, still groggy from the long weekend! It's the front seats, the part of the floor with the mounts on it. Such good news that it's a match!

Should I just use a sawzall to cut the sheet metal out?
 
Top Bottom