CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Pretty much every one is a foot shorter than youHe's a foot+ shorter than me, he knows his place
I also figured out the truck won't shut off if the headlights are on. The dash lights have stopped working and the turn signal indicators are lit with the headlights on so something weird is going on.
some cars have a buzzer or bell if the lights are on , yours just has the rumble of a big block.
Did you put LED bulbs in? That's like some of the problems I had in both trucks trying LED turn signals.
negative, it's all OE.
Obviously the EFI is seeing 12v through the headlight circuit when the ignition is off. IIRC I found a 12v ignition source at the fusebox and used that for the EFI. I need to put a light on it and see if it goes hot with the headlights on/ignition off.
Did you put a relay in the fuel pump circuit?
One of the things the Edelbrock tech had me do was put the 12V switched feed straight off the battery thru a switch. He said something about sometimes some of the factory switch wires can hold enough voltage after the key is off that the ECU won't full power off.
In general tho, I'm thinking you've got some sort of ground issue. With the Derale fan controller in the C10 if I pull it's ground off the battery somehow it comes on even with the key off and the coolant stone cold. Kinda reminds me of your situation and makes me wonder if you have a ground wire disconnected or loose somewhere.
One of the things the Edelbrock tech had me do was put the 12V switched feed straight off the battery thru a switch. He said something about sometimes some of the factory switch wires can hold enough voltage after the key is off that the ECU won't full power off.
In general tho, I'm thinking you've got some sort of ground issue. With the Derale fan controller in the C10 if I pull it's ground off the battery somehow it comes on even with the key off and the coolant stone cold. Kinda reminds me of your situation and makes me wonder if you have a ground wire disconnected or loose somewhere.
Did you put a relay in the fuel pump circuit?
One of the things the Edelbrock tech had me do was put the 12V switched feed straight off the battery thru a switch. He said something about sometimes some of the factory switch wires can hold enough voltage after the key is off that the ECU won't full power off.
In general tho, I'm thinking you've got some sort of ground issue. With the Derale fan controller in the C10 if I pull it's ground off the battery somehow it comes on even with the key off and the coolant stone cold. Kinda reminds me of your situation and makes me wonder if you have a ground wire disconnected or loose somewhere.
interesting but I'm not too surprised either. The gas gauge has never worked, it pegs full when I turn the ignition on. I wonder if there's a weird ground issue tied to that too.
I wonder if you've got a ground disconnected under the dash.
I need to pull the cluster out for a new speedo cable so I'll take a look.
No updates on the wiring, I just make sure the headlights are off before I kill the ignition
After the distributor came loose a few months ago, it started pinging so I parked it for a while. Recently I found some time to put a light on it and found the base timing too advanced so I pulled some timing out and it's happy again.
Cam Specs:
Comp Cam 01-451-8
230 int./236 exh.
0.547 int./0.547 exh.
112 LSA
The machine work was just the valve guides so I could use the viton seals, which are required under the smaller ID of the dual valve springs. They also trimmed the height of the guides for extra clearance and resurfaced the heads.
Ok, thought that was the cam you used, so my next question was answered about the guides.No updates on the wiring, I just make sure the headlights are off before I kill the ignition
After the distributor came loose a few months ago, it started pinging so I parked it for a while. Recently I found some time to put a light on it and found the base timing too advanced so I pulled some timing out and it's happy again.
Cam Specs:
Comp Cam 01-451-8
230 int./236 exh.
0.547 int./0.547 exh.
112 LSA
The machine work was just the valve guides so I could use the viton seals, which are required under the smaller ID of the dual valve springs. They also trimmed the height of the guides for extra clearance and resurfaced the heads.
How are those 35s holding up?
The coopers are solid, I'm more concerned about the 12 bolt. I have to remind myself to be nice to it.
I have 50K on my 12B with it behind a big block and 4:56 gears. I think that they will take a little bit of abuse.
For years, my avatar picture was of my truck in a burn-out contest. But the Bent one gave me crap about never changing it. I would have to go find it on the computer.Yeah but we need proof of concept....
I know you'll light 'em up.
I remember that pic
My old 78 454/465 12 bolt with 3.73, 35” BFG MTs…. Scattered the rear end… Was not nice to it.
Latest Posts
-
-
'86 Jimmy 4in Lift, 40’s, tons, 8.1 Swap- 700r4 said PNNNNN- Latest: GWeakland620
-
-
-
