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1976 C-10 Stepside Shortbox - Beagle's Build

If you are paying for machining it's a wash, but if your using used parts than the Ls wins usually, and the other thing that you are leaving out is that usually the Ls motors need no help or little help with compression unlike all small block engines... just say it, you like the lower torque curve.. that is the main difference.. old motors make torque way sooner.. but that's the platform limitation, it's almost like comparing NASCAR engines to truck motors... nothing wrong with a hopped up bbc nothing sounds like one spun up either..
 
Lol. I want a 454 too. :waytogo:

I just remembered the power numbers someone on here said for the 8.1. Forgot about the kit having heads.

The fact that only one company does aftermarket for it and it costs more than my truck did to upgrade, pretty much killed the 8.1 idea for me too lol.

I hadn't seen that Holley kit before but I like it :D

You'll have to buy tires by the truck load:burnout:

Going to get an Amazon dash button for tires.
 
I like the direction you are going for the engine. Should suit the truck perfectly.

And on that note, if my 350 ever pops in my K5, I am going with a 8.1 pullout. I've wanted one forever.
 
Thanks. I agree that it's the right way to go. If I was going to really slam it and make it into some sort of handling autocross truck, then it needs an LS.
If I was going got more of a factory resto look then a that ugly manifold 496 would work.
But I am going for a muscle car theme. (Yes I know it's been done a million times)
It needs to look like it has a four barrel on it.

I'll be doing the standard 60s finned valve covers and matching air cleaner for it.
 
Well, as some of you might have noticed, I had 4 pages of worthless crap taken out.

Nothing really new to report on the "build" of this truck. I haven't had much expendable money in 2018, due to a mirad of different reasons.
But it has been getting driven some. I went to a few cruise nights here and there.
Mostly, just I'll take it to the hardware stores and grocery stores.
IMG_20180915_163203668.jpg 9813.jpeg


The gauges still don't work dating back from last year.
The radio has been a hack job since I bought the truck. But it still worked. Then on Tuesday while running down to a local tavern's car show/ cruise night, the radio took a complete shit and I started to get feed back from The electric fans back through the speakers. Annoying.
So annoying that this showed up today.

IMG_20180920_214656302.jpg

It won't happen right away as I am still going to need a few things to make it happen the right way. And the wiring kit was pretty much all my extra cash I had for awhile.

On another note, anyone know what are a set of decent stainless steel BBC headers for a C10?
 
I went with speed daddy shorties off of eBay on mine. Don’t have a long term report but they appear to be a fairly decent header. Thick flanges and good welds at least. And if they only last half as long as a name brand set I’ll buy two more sets and still be money ahead. I did have to beat on my passenger side a little because number 2 must have been a little off when they welded it. Other than that I can’t complain. I’m going to scuff and paint them just to make sure they don’t rust. I didn’t realize that was an issue with stainless steel until a couple months ago. Had it in my head that it was rust proof.
 
I went with speed daddy shorties off of eBay on mine. Don’t have a long term report but they appear to be a fairly decent header. Thick flanges and good welds at least. And if they only last half as long as a name brand set I’ll buy two more sets and still be money ahead. I did have to beat on my passenger side a little because number 2 must have been a little off when they welded it. Other than that I can’t complain. I’m going to scuff and paint them just to make sure they don’t rust. I didn’t realize that was an issue with stainless steel until a couple months ago. Had it in my head that it was rust proof.

Depends on grade of stainless. Some stainless grades will rust, because it's not pure. A pure stainless steel won't rust.
 
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Not 100% accurate but it is in the car world.
(We used to run a plating Shop, you keep any grade of stainless in the same area as hydrochloric, she’s gonna start to rust eventually.

But still, for the car world you buy proper stainless it should stay decent. Maybe light surface oxidation.
 
Well, as some of you might have noticed, I had 4 pages of worthless crap taken out.

Nothing really new to report on the "build" of this truck. I haven't had much expendable money in 2018, due to a mirad of different reasons.
But it has been getting driven some. I went to a few cruise nights here and there.
Mostly, just I'll take it to the hardware stores and grocery stores.
View attachment 278751 View attachment 278766


The gauges still don't work dating back from last year.
The radio has been a hack job since I bought the truck. But it still worked. Then on Tuesday while running down to a local tavern's car show/ cruise night, the radio took a complete shit and I started to get feed back from The electric fans back through the speakers. Annoying.
So annoying that this showed up today.

View attachment 278770

It won't happen right away as I am still going to need a few things to make it happen the right way. And the wiring kit was pretty much all my extra cash I had for awhile.

On another note, anyone know what are a set of decent stainless steel BBC headers for a C10?


I did thte ezwiring 21 harness and love it. I, however, did one thing different... I went through the factory harness!!!! I cut each wire, crimped ends and put into the oem plug... best decision ever.
 
I did thte ezwiring 21 harness and love it. I, however, did one thing different... I went through the factory harness!!!! I cut each wire, crimped ends and put into the oem plug... best decision ever.

I'll run everything with weatherpak connecters. Which I don't have yet. That's why it won't be for awhile.
 
so I read it back a few times... are you going LS/454 or 496?

I agree that the 8.1L may not be the best in a C series lighter truck but from everything ive read about people doing LS swaps in a fullsize lifted rig.. they do produce more power at higher RPM; however, the 8.1L just grunts if you need lower power like I do. I like trails and hills.. I wont have to tach it up to 4500 rpms to get them tires turning to hit a hill and then worry about coming in to fast... ill just blup the throttle and go over then let off... then blip...

also from what I'm hearing on a stock motor... it isn't unheard of to have a hot tune, torque management off and get 400hp/580ft-lb torque....

my intention is to get this motor in the truck, get it all tweaked and working... then in a year or 2 pull it, freshen up with rings, bearings and a zz502 cam, 1.7 roller rockers and then be about 550hp/625ft-lb (guessing on that part)

but if I could just find an 8.8 by then.. well yeah id rather a 540bbc vs a 496bbc.. something about the 5xx over a 4xx sounds cooler
 
I'll run everything with weatherpak connecters. Which I don't have yet. That's why it won't be for awhile.
I, like a dummy, went with the all black kit as it was $30 cheaper but harder to install. when someone tells you the green wire is temp sensor and all of your wires are black... UGHHHHH

bad picture but here is mine..

ez_plus_stock.jpg



ez_plus_stock2.jpg
 
Not 100% accurate but it is in the car world.
(We used to run a plating Shop, you keep any grade of stainless in the same area as hydrochloric, she’s gonna start to rust eventually.

But still, for the car world you buy proper stainless it should stay decent. Maybe light surface oxidation.

LoL, I could write a whole thread on metallurgy. But the header world it just isn't that complex. I just want a decent quality header to put on this.
 
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so I read it back a few times... are you going LS/454 or 496?

I agree that the 8.1L may not be the best in a C series lighter truck but from everything ive read about people doing LS swaps in a fullsize lifted rig.. they do produce more power at higher RPM; however, the 8.1L just grunts if you need lower power like I do. I like trails and hills.. I wont have to tach it up to 4500 rpms to get them tires turning to hit a hill and then worry about coming in to fast... ill just blup the throttle and go over then let off... then blip...

also from what I'm hearing on a stock motor... it isn't unheard of to have a hot tune, torque management off and get 400hp/580ft-lb torque....

my intention is to get this motor in the truck, get it all tweaked and working... then in a year or 2 pull it, freshen up with rings, bearings and a zz502 cam, 1.7 roller rockers and then be about 550hp/625ft-lb (guessing on that part)

but if I could just find an 8.8 by then.. well yeah id rather a 540bbc vs a 496bbc.. something about the 5xx over a 4xx sounds cooler

Lots of confusing chatter, I know.
Block is a 454 from 1978. Will be bored .60 over. Scat stroker crank. Dart Pro 1 heads. Lunati cam. And a Holley multi-port fuel injection.
650/650 hp/tq goals
 
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