What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

1976 C-10 Stepside Shortbox - Beagle's Build

Overview Gallery Discussion
folkenheath said:
I think you should likely stick with the 24x setup since you are trying to plug into the tuned port intake stuff. I believe the IAC, MAP, TPS, etc will be the same connector, but I am not 100% sure. Worst case you may need to swap sensors or connectors to plug it in, not a showstopper. You definitely don't have the LS3 style MAP sensor so stick with the older LS harness. Does the tuned port have knock sensors? I don't think it does, you might just leave those unplugged then, but if it does do your homework, the holley can work with them, its just a matter of connectors. But you don't really need them for a tuned port NA engine.




Also, the Holley ECU is extremely versatile, its self learning with a handheld simpleness, yet you have guys with the same ECU winning drag week and running in the 5s or 6s in the quarter. Crazy versatility if you change your mind down the road and want to do anything in between.
Click to expand...

Yes, I figured there's going to be details with the sensors that will need worked out. The plug for the iac will need changed and the tps can be easily swapped as well. I didn't know if it would use a MAF or MAP for the LS harness, but I will happily switch to either. The stock '86 MAF sucks with it's power and burn-off relays. My Accel 24# injectors use the old style Bosch connector, so those will need swapped as well. The knock sensors are the big question for me. The TPI setup just has one, and it's a single wire. The threads are npt, as it screws into right block drain. The LS style sensors are metric, non-taper IIRC.

When it's all said and done, I'm sure it will be spendy. But worth it.
 
USSkoval said:
Yes, I figured there's going to be details with the sensors that will need worked out. The plug for the iac will need changed and the tps can be easily swapped as well. I didn't know if it would use a MAF or MAP for the LS harness, but I will happily switch to either. The stock '86 MAF sucks with it's power and burn-off relays. My Accel 24# injectors use the old style Bosch connector, so those will need swapped as well. The knock sensors are the big question for me. The TPI setup just has one, and it's a single wire. The threads are npt, as it screws into right block drain. The LS style sensors are metric, non-taper IIRC.

When it's all said and done, I'm sure it will be spendy. But worth it.
Click to expand...

I'm not entirely sure about that, many of the TPS and IAC are the same over the years for GM. They had no reason to switch the connector. The weird one is the IAC for GM and Chrysler had the same connector, but a different pinout. So you end up being up to to plug it in just fine but it doesn't work right and then you wonder why your idle is not consistent.

Also, you can get the rectangular bosch connector on it too, as they still used that for earlier LS engines.

See attached, go to Holley EFI page, select Terminator EFI, then Terminator LS EFI, then Terminator LS MPFI, then you can narrow it down on the left like below.

I think it will be very close to plug and play for you if you get a 24x crank setup, if you spend the extra dough to get the cam sensor in the timing cover through EFI connection then you don't need to worry about cam sensor phasing in the distributor housing, but it will work either way.

Every aftermarket EFI that I know of uses Speed Density, not MAF, that includes the Holley, so you can ditch the MAF.

Capture.JPG
 
Last edited:
folkenheath said:
I'm not entirely sure about that, many of the TPS and IAC are the same over the years for GM. They had no reason to switch the connector. The weird one is the IAC for GM and Chrysler had the same connector, but a different pinout. So you end up being up to to plug it in just fine but it doesn't work right and then you wonder why your idle is not consistent.

Also, you can get the rectangular bosch connector on it too, as they still used that for earlier LS engines.

See attached, go to Holley EFI page, select Terminator EFI, then Terminator LS EFI, then Terminator LS MPFI, then you can narrow it down on the left like below.

I think it will be very close to plug and play for you if you get a 24x crank setup, if you spend the extra dough to get the cam sensor in the timing cover through EFI connection then you don't need to worry about cam sensor phasing in the distributor housing, but it will work either way.

Every aftermarket EFI that I know of uses Speed Density, not MAF, that includes the Holley, so you can ditch the MAF.

View attachment 292586
Click to expand...

I want to thank you again, for being so helpful and laying everything out in a way that this dummy can understand.

GM used two types of plugs for the tps and iac. The early type iac was the big screw-in type with a square plug, it was used on TBI (not 7.4 though) and TPI and some other earlier setups. Newer designed applications used an iac that was retained with a couple torx screws and a mounting flange, it used a flat and more compact connector. Same for the tps, early ones had a flat and bulky connector, later ones had a smaller and round connector. Its the same connector used on the 3-wire temp senders. If I do this swap at the same time as a First intake, these connectors my be a non-issue anyway. It uses the newer sensors I believe.

Do the newer, small body injectors do a better job at controlling fuel? If so, it would make sense to me to install them. Fuel pressure is something I'm unsure of too. The TPI is currently setup to run 45psi with an adjustable regulator. My fuel pump has died due to sitting for so long and I need to swap in a new pump. If it would be beneficial to run 58 psi like the newer sequential stuff, now would be the time to do it. That's also within range of my adjustable regulator.

Also, I like the idea of having the cam sensor in the timing cover. That's certainly the route I want to take.
 
USSkoval said:
I want to thank you again, for being so helpful and laying everything out in a way that this dummy can understand.

GM used two types of plugs for the tps and iac. The early type iac was the big screw-in type with a square plug, it was used on TBI (not 7.4 though) and TPI and some other earlier setups. Newer designed applications used an iac that was retained with a couple torx screws and a mounting flange, it used a flat and more compact connector. Same for the tps, early ones had a flat and bulky connector, later ones had a smaller and round connector. Its the same connector used on the 3-wire temp senders. If I do this swap at the same time as a First intake, these connectors my be a non-issue anyway. It uses the newer sensors I believe.

Do the newer, small body injectors do a better job at controlling fuel? If so, it would make sense to me to install them. Fuel pressure is something I'm unsure of too. The TPI is currently setup to run 45psi with an adjustable regulator. My fuel pump has died due to sitting for so long and I need to swap in a new pump. If it would be beneficial to run 58 psi like the newer sequential stuff, now would be the time to do it. That's also within range of my adjustable regulator.

Also, I like the idea of having the cam sensor in the timing cover. That's certainly the route I want to take.
Click to expand...

Ah, OK, I wasn't aware of the older IAC valve, never used that one. Every one I've ever used has been the newer style with the flat connector, which is the same one Chrysler uses with a different pinout, which is annoying.

I would guess the newer injectors with the higher pressure might have measurable better atomization for fuel droplet size, but I would be willing to bet you will never be able to see the difference or even measure it with a drag strip or MPG calc. If the current injectors you have flow enough fuel, I would just leave them in. If you go from 15 psi TBI to 45 psi then yeah, but from the 45-60 I think they are all similar enough I would run what you have. The injector harness in the holley system is a modular subharness. So you can always just swap that subharness later if you get different injectors, or use the little adaptors.

Good luck, let us know when you start the swap, I like those kind of conversions. Because I converted my big block to EFI and DIS with the coils custom mounted on the valve covers, I've actually had people ask me what engine it is, because they don't recognize it, especially in a Buick. It looks like a huge LS motor.

Oh, and no need to insult yourself to thank me, I just enjoy discussing this sort of stuff as making stuff work is my passion, especially when it is involves HP or going fast. :D
 
Last edited:
Ok, good to know. The last time it ran, the injectors were working just fine, but they are the old yellow and black Accell injectors that everyone complained about. I guess I'll ohm them and see if they are still good from that standpoint. I need to change out the dead fuel pump regardless, but if the injectors test good, I'll get a stock AC Delco pump for it.
 
It's a squarebody..... It's gonna leak something lol... I've never had one that didn't :doah:
 
When I rebuilt the burb Orilleys had 4 row brass radiators for the squares yet. Now it's the cheap plastic tank crap only.
 
I have a stack of square body radiators at the farm. Some big-block ones, 6.2 deslow ones, etc,etc. just will need to sort through and find one thats good and bolt it down. Not sure if a deslow one would work with the older core support?
Probably have to fab some brackets. Or Maybe just call summit for a fancy aluminum one. Right @Bowtie85 @79rustyk10 ??
 
Last edited:
The deertroit deesel rads run different in/outlet sizes. Had to get creative on the rad in my 83 k20 to make hoses work.

Got a copper big block rad that came out of a 80 c30 , it doesn’t look to different compared to that 81 up rad other than the in/outlet sizes.

Haven’t had them side by side yet. But after looking at them, I don’t think it would be to have to make the 81 up rad fit.
 
Actually the cooling system has been the Achilles heel of this truck for the last two summers.
Not sure what's going on. Haven't put any time into it. Two summers ago I drove the crap out of it and it was fine. Last summer it started getting hot all the time. This summer has been the same. I just put some coolant in it awhile back. Now it starts leaking while I'm backing it in the garage and it's shit brown?
How's that even possible. I just put some green stuff in the hole.
I think it times for that big block the thread title is talking about.....

As far as a the radiator is concerned I might just buy a big 4 core aluminum. Get that part done for the big block now.... Not sure I got the cash flow for a ron Davis...
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom