CK5
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1977 k5 498 bbc…poom

With that cam I would think you would get a little more ponies out of rect ports, but those are really nice heads, good quality.

Are you sure you have aluminum rods? I've only ever seen those used in drag cars because the life span is pretty short on them. Have to be changed every couple hundred runs or so if I recall. They do rev quick though and can help absorb shock loads from nitrous.

Yup they are 4340 steel lol.

Umm so when I researched my heads I just went with what was reccomended on the AFR website for my engine size. The 290 CC oval ports are good for up to 509 cubic inches.
 
Theres nothing wrong with them, just when you start revving to hiegh 6s and 7k you can get some more ponies out of a rectangular port, its about RPM, not just engine size. But I am sure the engine will run real good and you'll be happy with it. Might be one of those things where you can measure the difference but might not be able to feel it. That engine will run real good with the proper fuel and ignition system, you'll be happy.
 
Sweet...I'm pumped.

I got a MSD Digital 6 Plus and a blaster coil for my ignition stuff. Taylor wires most likely with Optima battery of course. Thinking of relocating the battery to the back though.

I just want this rig built already!
 
Sweet...I'm pumped.

I got a MSD Digital 6 Plus and a blaster coil for my ignition stuff. Taylor wires most likely with Optima battery of course. Thinking of relocating the battery to the back though.

I just want this rig built already!

I like the MSD super conductor wires, they are only about 50 ohms/foot, which is really low. Although Taylor recently came out with a copy of them that has about hte same resistance, those are probably nice too but I haven't used them.
 
I use it for sand drags but haven't entered any actual timed events, just for fun.

The rear is still leaves so I don't have any antisquat adjustments to play with. The front floats pretty well under acceleration regardless of conditions. What type of setup are you wondering about?
 
I don't use any zero rates or blocks, shackle flip only and poly bushings, zero rates and blocks just add more leverage to wrap the spring. I can get away without wheel hop on the sand, but I get it pretty bad on the asphault. JDNobodi races his truck quite a bit, has leaf springs and cal-tracs on all 4 corners. If you are using the bottle the cal tracs might be a good idea but if its all mud and you don't have any traction and just wheel speed it might not matter.
 
I was thinking of removing the bottom leaf on the rear springs and adding a traction bar. A 4 link and coils might be over kill but not out of the question. Maybe later I will try some thinner springs and some Pro Comp Suspension 6 way adjustable monotube shocks. I currently have a 4" rough country suspension lift which is closer to 6"
 
A traction bar would help but if your primary use is sand drags I would probably get cal-tracs. They will have a better anti squat likely but they will limit your articulation. If articulation matters then go with the traction bar.

If you are sand dragging I think your tires are going to matter a lot. Can you run paddles?
 
For traction just use a couple of torque leaves to make the springpack thicker and clamp them front and rear, it doesn't limit travel as much as caltracs but it doesn't work as well..
 
I'll look into the cal tracs. They are affordable. I can run paddles. I will likely run a 33" swamper up front and a paddle in the rear. 33" as well...
 
Whelp I FINALLY got my TH400, HD NP208 and PTC 10" 4200 stall torque converter ready for install. My father in law had a performance shop in Florida build me a heavy duty TH400 with reverse manual valve body. UPS shipped it and dropped it sometime during transit shearing off the left flange on the bell housing and cracking the other side. I ordered a fresh clean TH400 case on eBay which my local tranny shop will be swapping the internals to. UPS SUCKS! I had $1200 of insurance on it and they still declined my claim for them to own up. Anyway I dropped the truck off at my local transmission shop and it should be ready later this week. In the mean time I have all the goodies ready for the rest of the engine build. It's slowly moving along. I feel its better to have this part done prior to the new engine going in anyway.

Meanwhile I am still waiting on my Detroit Locker and 4.10 gears to come in from 4wheel parts. Apparently Detroit is having a hard time getting their lockers out in a timely manner. They are on back order and not in stock anywhere.

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AHHHHH!! I just got word from my tranny mechanic that the black TH400 is from the 60's and the new silver case is from the 80's so the internalls wont work on both. DAMMIT! I have to find a 607 or 68 TH400 case now


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Research "Ultra Bell" from JW Performance Transmissions, that might fix your problem without a case swap.

Edit: without a case swap
 
I agree, I would definitely just put on an ultrabell in that situation. Saves the case and makes your tranny stronger at the same time.
 
Oh boy...now my local tranny mechanic is saying the mechanic from Florida didnt use fresh clutches and is missing parts inside. My mechanic in Florida is screaming this kid doesnt know what a reverse manual valve bodied performance tranny is or how to make it work. The TH350 and 203 are out so my K5 wont be going anywhere at the moment. I'm going to my local guy and taking both TH400's to a hi performance shop in town to have them take a look. Man this is getting ridiculous.
 
Is this thing going to see street time too, or just a drag truck?

Martin
 
Just to say it outloud, the trans you're going to use does have the right tailshaft for your tcase? I'm just asking. Because there are different length shafts and I'm assuming, based on the year of the trans, you bought an "off the shelf" built unit.
 
It's going to see street time for sure. I am trying to make sure they are bullding it with the reverse components. My trans mechanic finally admitted he's able to swap the guts out and use the new case I got. They are the EXACT same case... So thats a plus! I'm now searching for a TH400 to NP208 tall adapter and the associated linkage.

I've purchased a NP231J shifter with 48" cable from JB Custom Fabrication. It's a sweet looking set up!
 
Long time since I have had a chance to update! Long story short I have finally sorted out the NP208 to TH400 debauchery. My tranny mech did a great job at swapping the guts out to the new case. My reverse works and the NP208 is a dream compared to the NP203 I had originally. The current 350 likes the new set up as well. For some reason it seems faster and more powerful. I assume it's due to the lighter weight of the overall set up. I had custom drive shafts made as well. The BBC is coming along swimmingly as well. It should be in by early next month. After that I will install the Detroit Locker in the rear with 4.11's. Up front I will install an Auburn LSD with 4.11's as well. I am looking into swapping out the auto hubs with some WARN manual hubs. Not sure if I will need to though...maybe I should so I can have the option of 2 wheel drive only. My 77 K5 of course is all wheel drive due to the NP203 tcase it had.

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This is the shifter selector bracket JB customs sent me. My NP208 was clocked in a way that did not allow my shifter cable to work properly for 2HI .I had to create an add on to it.

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Finished product. Shifts perfect now!

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