I believe that the starter will live longer and starting will be easier if you do the remote solenoid.
I have done it on every gm I had
CK5
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I have done it on every gm I had
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Not going to disagree. But if he is buying a different starter anyway. No sense in messing with it now.
I wouldn't install the extra relay unless you just want to eliminate the power at the starter when you aren't cranking the engine, if you are planning to install one of the permanent magnet gear reduction starters. There is a small downside to using a relay with one if them. The starter gets a little bit of "run-on" and doesn't quit cranking as soon as you let off of the key. It doesn't bother anything since the overrun clutch is in the drive, but it sounds like you don't let off of start position at the right time. We did the relay in my '72 C10 with one of those starters and it does this. I have learned to let off of the key sooner in anticipation of the engine starting.
So still trying to get rid of that stupid silver solenoid relay thing.
Yellow wire comes into this 4 plug, and out to that 2 plug.
The tan wire comes out to the hei tach signal.
Now I’m an effort to clean up and get rid of unused mess, my gut is to snip the plugs out and run the yellow wire direct to the hei plug. Is there any reason that would be a bad plan? And of course as it is right now I can’t test power or anything cuz half the harness is undone.
Yellow wire comes into this 4 plug, and out to that 2 plug.
The tan wire comes out to the hei tach signal.
Now I’m an effort to clean up and get rid of unused mess, my gut is to snip the plugs out and run the yellow wire direct to the hei plug. Is there any reason that would be a bad plan? And of course as it is right now I can’t test power or anything cuz half the harness is undone.
I don't have a clue as to what that relay does for the ignition. I would just use the ohmmeter to check out which one at the firewall bulkhead connector feeds power to the ignition. Then see if you can drop it down to one single wire in a straight shot to the coil.
That the beauty of HEI, as long as it has power and the engine is grounded, it will work perfectly. As long as the parts in the distributor are good.
That the beauty of HEI, as long as it has power and the engine is grounded, it will work perfectly. As long as the parts in the distributor are good.
Gotcha. I know the hei is good as it’s brand new (not a guarantee) and it was running good when I started pulling stuff out
Pulled all the wiring schematics off a different square body site.
Taped them end to end so I can do a better job of tracing stuff out in the garage. Still haven’t found that connector on any of the drawings. Driving me nuts.
Taped them end to end so I can do a better job of tracing stuff out in the garage. Still haven’t found that connector on any of the drawings. Driving me nuts.
That's a good idea
Started doing some mild work. Trying to get my wiring cleanup operation started. I had some other distribution blocks, but they were like 6” long inline instead of circular and took up way too much room.
Welded some strap to the battery tray so I could mount the fuse/relay box to that and the fender. Worked out peachy.
My goal is to get only one cable coming off each terminal of the battery. Plus I wanted circuit breaker so I can pop it to shut off the battery when I’m not driving it.
Slowly but surely.
Welded some strap to the battery tray so I could mount the fuse/relay box to that and the fender. Worked out peachy.
My goal is to get only one cable coming off each terminal of the battery. Plus I wanted circuit breaker so I can pop it to shut off the battery when I’m not driving it.
Slowly but surely.
Stupid electric fans.
I drove the truck Into the garage. Should’ve left it alone.
I drove the truck Into the garage. Should’ve left it alone.
That’s the whole underhood harness. It’s a mess but I’m trying to clean stuff up and make it better long run
If you don’t have a tach, should there be anything plugged into the tach port on the hei?
Think I just found the answer I’ve been trying to figure out for that stupid silver solenoid on another site.
Think I just found the answer I’ve been trying to figure out for that stupid silver solenoid on another site.
No. The tach output is only used if there is a tach.
Martin
Martin
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Interesting way to mount the battery, welding the mount the the factory tray. You got a link for the breaker? And distribution blocks? I like those.
Good cuz I cut that wire earlier. Now it’s just the tach signal to the fitech and shortly to the tach I need to add.
Just amazon shit.
I’ll grab links
I guess these are screenshots and not really links but it should be easy enough to figure out.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
That's all I'll need.
fuse block?
One of each of the fuse box kits, and the 6 pack of small junction strips.
I’m gonna use one relay to make one of the junction strips a keyed ignition 12v feed will be nice to have a clean easy place to pull switched 12v. Instead of having a bunch of wire taps everywhere.
I’m gonna use one relay to make one of the junction strips a keyed ignition 12v feed will be nice to have a clean easy place to pull switched 12v. Instead of having a bunch of wire taps everywhere.
