Oh it’s been on my list for awhile. Especially since most of the stuff I do is just typically Home Depot strap steel.
CK5
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For brackets and whatnot it’s pretty handy. I haven’t used mine a lot but the times I have it’s saved me lots of time. Plus if you need to duplicate a bracket you can set the stop so the bend is in the same spot.
Exactly. Not to mention the bench vise I have has crooked jaws like an Alabama native so even clamping and hammering doesn’t work as cleanly as I like. But I make do
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Once your wife makes the big bucks you can spend some moneies.
That’s plan. I gots me a list already.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Bitch of it is, my list never gets shorter.
Can confirm.
Like I want that press brake.
Well I also want to get rid of my harbor freight powder cast arbor plates.
Well it’s cheaper to buy a new 20ton hf press with the new cut plates than just buying the arbor plates from swag. So now I’m getting a new shop press.
If I’m gonna invest in a new press, might as well get a new welder so I can upgrade from my little flux buzz box.
And so on it goes
Like I want that press brake.
Well I also want to get rid of my harbor freight powder cast arbor plates.
Well it’s cheaper to buy a new 20ton hf press with the new cut plates than just buying the arbor plates from swag. So now I’m getting a new shop press.
If I’m gonna invest in a new press, might as well get a new welder so I can upgrade from my little flux buzz box.
And so on it goes
Question for the fitech guys on electric fans.
I know that the trigger wire from the throttle body is a ground signal so I use that as the ground to my relay for the fan. Makes sense. My question is the power to the relay.
I know one terminal will be battery positive with a fuse.
What about the terminal that is normally 12v key/switch?
Do I just make that battery positive too since the ground wire is gonna be the “keyed switch” ?
I know that the trigger wire from the throttle body is a ground signal so I use that as the ground to my relay for the fan. Makes sense. My question is the power to the relay.
I know one terminal will be battery positive with a fuse.
What about the terminal that is normally 12v key/switch?
Do I just make that battery positive too since the ground wire is gonna be the “keyed switch” ?
I have swag press brake. Use it frequently. Also added the air over hydro jack to it.
When you order one, let them know you are with CK5.COM and heard about it from Blazer Bash. He is a sponsor of the event. Goes a long way for support.
When you order one, let them know you are with CK5.COM and heard about it from Blazer Bash. He is a sponsor of the event. Goes a long way for support.
I will definitely do that.
Would they have to be switched?
I could be wrong but I don’t think you want them powered 24/7
Even a ground on relay I put on a switched feed. Do not have too. But if you are working on it and forget that it is always hot, or someone helping you, things can get sparky.
But wouldn’t it be not “powered” if it doesn’t get ground until it’s switched on by the fitech to compete the circuit?
I’m trying to understand this as I’m running out of places to get good switched 12v signal.
I’m trying to understand this as I’m running out of places to get good switched 12v signal.
Because that + wire is hot all the time, if you unplug it from the relay, you may short it. Also, if the ground "on" wire does short out, it is not fused, it will run the fan until the battery is dead. Seen it happen. If you are standing there no big deal. But if the vehicle is sitting and you are not around, you would not know it.
What is the best way to add a switched power block where I can pull my accessories from one place.
I’m running a quick car panel with built in fuses blocks.
The easiest would be to run a single switched ignition wire to control a relay since it can handle a higher amperage draw and then run a 12 or 10 gauge wire from the relay to a buss bar. That way you essentially turn a single low amperage switched 12v wire into a higher amperage relay controlled circuit that can then provide multiple 12v switched feeds off of the buss bar. Make sure to fuse it all starting with the main feed off the battery. You could use a fuse block instead of a buss bar so that all your outputs circuits are fused. Make sure to use a good quality relay and carry a spare or a jumper wire to bypass it so you don't lose all the circuits if the relay fails. I like the weatherproof ones like this. Many manufacturers make them. This is just an example. https://www.grote.com/products/84-1080-5-pin-relay-and-pigtail/
Yup that’s the exact thing I came up with. I’ve Been esrarching this pst few days. Gonna make a relay board with some buss bars and distribution blocks.The easiest would be to run a single switched ignition wire to control a relay since it can handle a higher amperage draw and then run a 12 or 10 gauge wire from the relay to a buss bar. That way you essentially turn a single low amperage switched 12v wire into a higher amperage relay controlled circuit that can then provide multiple 12v switched feeds off of the buss bar. Make sure to fuse it all starting with the main feed off the battery. You could use a fuse block instead of a buss bar so that all your outputs circuits are fused. Make sure to use a good quality relay and carry a spare or a jumper wire to bypass it so you don't lose all the circuits if the relay fails. I like the weatherproof ones like this. Many manufacturers make them. This is just an example. https://www.grote.com/products/84-1080-5-pin-relay-and-pigtail/
Working on drawing it out so I can lay it out cleanly.
Thanks for replying tho.
It was driving me nuts then the light bulb clicked when I realized I could use one relay to power a whole bar if switched 12v feeds.
