You guys think if I drop the frame plates down and weld in steel to make up the difference that will be good?
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
It looks like there are holes on the sides of the crossmember that bolt to the motor mount plates AND maybe one other hole at the very bottom of the motor mount plates that also bolts to a tab on the crossmember??
If so, I'd get some long bolts and loosely fit all of those lower bolts between the motor mounts and the crossmember, then see where you end up with the top of the framerail and the top of that motormount plate. Presumably, these parts were designed to work together, so MOST of the holes "should" line up.... if you are suspicious that the frame may be tweaked, deal with all the other ones first and see what it tells you once everything else is aligned and finger-tight.
-G
If so, I'd get some long bolts and loosely fit all of those lower bolts between the motor mounts and the crossmember, then see where you end up with the top of the framerail and the top of that motormount plate. Presumably, these parts were designed to work together, so MOST of the holes "should" line up.... if you are suspicious that the frame may be tweaked, deal with all the other ones first and see what it tells you once everything else is aligned and finger-tight.
-G
If I make everything singer tight it all aligns up, meaning the cross member sits flush. The problem lies with the frame plates for the motor mounts. I will have about a qtr inch gap between the mount and top frame rail.
This is the best picture I have as of right now.
This is the best picture I have as of right now.
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I would call the experts. Maybe send them some pictures to clarify. ORD that is.
Good idea, sometimes I forget company's have customer service.
Could anyone get me a measurement of the height of a k series frame near the mounts? Top to bottom?
Wade, what do you think about the bumps hitting the factory spring plates? Think it has enough room to land?
Could anyone get me a measurement of the height of a k series frame near the mounts? Top to bottom?
Wade, what do you think about the bumps hitting the factory spring plates? Think it has enough room to land?
Longer ubolts. 3/8 plate set on the 4 nuts. With 4 more nuts holding the plate down. As the suspension articulates, the axle does not come up in the same place all the time.
That isn't a bad idea, cheap and easy. 
I thought I was onto something and figured I could cheap out and use the factory plates.
I thought I was onto something and figured I could cheap out and use the factory plates.
And if your really trick, you mount the bottom of the shock on it also and push the shock up through the fender well.
Hmmm, I was thinking about using the factory location and pushing it up through verticle connected to a F250 mount. But, I like your thinking and I'm open to ideas. 
Listening to Wade is a bad idea on my part... I'm now thinking about fish plating my frame with another frame to mount shock hoops and the bump stops off of. I would cut it along the blue lines, and cut the bottom rail off.
In theory I believe this would take care of frame flex and steering box cracks and create a solid mount. I would also add a few bolts into this but I'm not sure where and if it is necessary.
In theory I believe this would take care of frame flex and steering box cracks and create a solid mount. I would also add a few bolts into this but I'm not sure where and if it is necessary.
Seems unnecessary to me. Why?
Martin
Martin
Wait, you mean just doubling up the outer layer? I thought you meant to cut out that portion and weld this portion in its place....
Martin
Martin
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Yea baba, thats not a good idea. If you want to gain strength, box the frame.
andyblack
Registered Loser
You're getting too complicated. Just concentrate on the engine mounts and crossmember for now. 
If anything I would cut the horizontals off that section of frame and use it to box your frame as it would be a perfect fit 
Just weld some friggin plate to your frame and start mounting $hit
As my boss would say, you think to much, stop thinking so much, just do it already
Just weld some friggin plate to your frame and start mounting $hit
As my boss would say, you think to much, stop thinking so much, just do it already
^^^^^^^^^what they all said.
Alright, I thought maybe I was onto something. It was late at night and insomnia kicked in with nothing else to do.
I got the email back, I can have the few feet I want for 60 dollars...
I got the email back, I can have the few feet I want for 60 dollars...
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Even for 60 bucks you guys wouldn't do it?
I'm thinking with this the frame won't crack and give me a solid mounting surface for a future linked suspension and for shock hoops.
I'm thinking with this the frame won't crack and give me a solid mounting surface for a future linked suspension and for shock hoops.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
If your just going to replace the whole section of frame, i guess i would do it to have the 4x4 frame.
