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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)

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Its going to take a solid day (crash course LOL) to learn how to set that welder up, and how to set it up for what thickness plate you are going to weld. Just remember, thicker = hotter. Easiest way I learned was set it hot enough to full penetrate (obviously) AT YOUR SLOWEST STEADIEST MOVEMENT). Then once you get the basics, you ramp up the heat and move faster. If you want, you could set it to nuclear your first time, but you wont have the skills to move the rod/mig/tig ect fast or steady enough to get a good weld. Learn how to weld, before learning how to weld fast. Its pretty simple once you get the hang of it, and Im sure you will after a bit of practice.
 
Well I put 2 hours into this flux core welder, it's a pos.:haha:

I'm glad KTM didn't use it while he was over... We probably would have flexed the jimmy on it.
 
I was practicing on that piece we were going to use for the front receiver mount. The bump stop can mounts came in, was hoping to get those tacked and cycle the suspension a few times.

I did find some rod.
 
Tried my hand at welding today, not sure but I think I did ok for my first time.

I had to check google to see how the welding rod hooked on. :haha:

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A few spots had pitting in them where it didn't look like the weld filled in. I would assume that's where making half circles comes in.
 
Should have thought about that before grinding on it. :doah: It had a nice blue ring around it I know that.
 
Babaganoosh said:
Should have thought about that before grinding on it. :doah: It had a nice blue ring around it I know that.
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It's amazing how stick welds can look when you chip the slag off.


The slag can sometimes look very scary and bad, but when you chip it off, you find a really nice weld.


Or a bad weld. :whistle:
 
im no stick welding expert but ive done it a bunch and basically you wanna drag the stick at an angle pointing away from the direction you are going (for the most part, vertical and other situations call for you to do different things) and move with the puddle.
 
wage92 said:
im no stick welding expert but ive done it a bunch and basically you wanna drag the stick at an angle pointing away from the direction you are going (for the most part, vertical and other situations call for you to do different things) and move with the puddle.
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I've been told about a 30-45* angle.

Always worked for me.


And you don't need to do half circle motion, there are many you can do. Zig zags, full circles, random shaking of the wrist... :whistle:


Just find a motion you are comfortable with
 
yea ive been told anywhere from 15-45* angle depending on the rod. 6013 seems that a steeper angle (closer to 45) works better due to so much slag.
 
wage92 said:
yea ive been told anywhere from 15-45* angle depending on the rod. 6013 seems that a steeper angle (closer to 45) works better due to so much slag.
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Is that what he is using?


IMO 7018 is the easiest stick to learn with as long as you are welding on a flat surface and not running vertical or upside down
 
not sure what he is using just saying that, i know 6013 is pretty popular and produces the most slag. 7018 is good though i agree.
 
I'm not even sure what I'm using either. What is the best way to knock slag off? I thought the slag was the weld. :popcorn:

I have a lot to learn about welding. I'm going to be doing lots of reading.
 
Babaganoosh said:
I'm not even sure what I'm using either. What is the best way to knock slag off? I thought the slag was the weld. :popcorn:

I have a lot to learn about welding. I'm going to be doing lots of reading.
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Oh boy.... :doah:


Chipping hammer is good for slag, and a wire brush.


Do some reading for sure
 
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