Im saying screw inner fenders.
In my case anyway.
I still have inner fenders. Or maybe 60% of them. They protect the reservoirs for both the coil overs and the bypasses.
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
I still have inner fenders. Or maybe 60% of them. They protect the reservoirs for both the coil overs and the bypasses.
Yah I may try to cut them out and remount. But At first Im not gonna bother. Those can always be put in after the suspension and everything else fits with no issues.
Sounds like the design of the hoops initially by ballistic isn't correct.
What would be better 1 solid fish plate for the hoop and bump or 3 to 4 individual plates? What thickness?
Sorry for all these questions...
Sorry for all these questions...
I did individuals. But mine are spaced far apart due to the 2 shocks.
"Frame spuds"? Never heard that term before.
"Frame spuds"? Never heard that term before.
I have no idea on that, I figured it was a cap for the frame mount.
The hoops have a 17.5 distance so the fish plate would be approximately 21.5 inches that will follow the shape of the frame. Now for thickness I'm thinking 1/4 or 1/8th.
The hoops have a 17.5 distance so the fish plate would be approximately 21.5 inches that will follow the shape of the frame. Now for thickness I'm thinking 1/4 or 1/8th.
1/4". If you used anything thinner, it would defeat the purpose. On mine I made the plates. Cut holes in them big enough and oblong enough, to slide them over the tubing. Then welded the tubing to the frame. Then slid the plates into place and welded them to the frame and the tubing. if not, your just butt welding them to the frame or plate. It's a lot more work the way I did it.
Wonder if they meant stubs.
By "double plated" do you mean you welded another layer of steel over the frame? Kinda like you would with a weld-in steering box brace.
Look at post 1207. I explained it in a little more in detail there.
frame spud is the round tube sticking out of the frame and it is a fairly common term.
I have mounted coilovers to the outside or inside of a hoop quite a bit not just directly underneath it.
I tend to brace up the mounting system a whole lot more if its a coilover and I am doing it that way than I would normally, trying to get as much weld area spread out over as large an area as possible. Never really had a problem but some of the rigs I do I don't ever see again.
The bracing of the frame is important. I tend to use 3/16s instead of 1/4 on alot of frame bracing that I do. The thing I do different is I tend to make them as large as possible.
On an old Chevy like ours I would run the frame plate as long as I possibly could cut some oval holes in it to weld it to the frame in a few more places.
I will actually drill holes as close to whatever it is bracing up, in a tubes case right under where the tube will mount, and do a rosette weld on that part.
Like I said brace it on the side leg ( long side) and top leg of the frame and then run the third leg and the engine cross brace and you will not have any problems at all
I have mounted coilovers to the outside or inside of a hoop quite a bit not just directly underneath it.
I tend to brace up the mounting system a whole lot more if its a coilover and I am doing it that way than I would normally, trying to get as much weld area spread out over as large an area as possible. Never really had a problem but some of the rigs I do I don't ever see again.
The bracing of the frame is important. I tend to use 3/16s instead of 1/4 on alot of frame bracing that I do. The thing I do different is I tend to make them as large as possible.
On an old Chevy like ours I would run the frame plate as long as I possibly could cut some oval holes in it to weld it to the frame in a few more places.
I will actually drill holes as close to whatever it is bracing up, in a tubes case right under where the tube will mount, and do a rosette weld on that part.
Like I said brace it on the side leg ( long side) and top leg of the frame and then run the third leg and the engine cross brace and you will not have any problems at all
I hear ya. I remember working with CAD software in high school in the early 90s. Would you believe ZModeler is about 15 years old?
Hmmm, wonder if it would make sense to incorporate this into a weld on steering repair. 
I will draw something up here tonight and report back.
Thanks so much guys, I'm learning a ton on this project.
Also my order from ballistic got shipped today and should be showing up tomorrow.
I will draw something up here tonight and report back.
Thanks so much guys, I'm learning a ton on this project.
Also my order from ballistic got shipped today and should be showing up tomorrow.
Should these plates be stitch welded or completely welded around?
Stitched. But all the way around.
Ok here is my idea for the frame brace/ plating
Blue = 1 and a half inch holes that will be welded in completely.
Red = Stitch welds around the entire plate
Yellow = Steering box bolts...
The bumps will go behind the shock and look like this.
Obviously the L shaped frame bracket would be upside down. I think this way I could fully utilize my 3 inch bumps and have them hit on top of the u bolt plates.
Blue = 1 and a half inch holes that will be welded in completely.
Red = Stitch welds around the entire plate
Yellow = Steering box bolts...
The bumps will go behind the shock and look like this.
Obviously the L shaped frame bracket would be upside down. I think this way I could fully utilize my 3 inch bumps and have them hit on top of the u bolt plates.
You do realize the steering box mounting area is not flat.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Look on Avery4jc's build thread. He's building his cage and I saw a pic of a spud on there. It's just a little nub sticking through a hole in the plating.
I think I'd go like 6" on either side of your "spuds" and call it good.
