CK5
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Okay, I can't turn the tires with the suspension compressed because I don't have my ram installed yet and pump in this truck is on its last leg. But this should give you a good idea.

My shock has 7" of exposed shaft at ride height. In the picture below there is about 3" of shaft still exposed so 1.5" short of full up-travel.

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The up-travel runs out before the steering arm is going to hit the springs.

Based on what you've said, you should save your bumpstops for last. After you've installed the engine, bumper, and winch. You're going to want the front fully loaded.

I'll tell you as I'm finally getting my front shocks installed, for me it's about the most difficult fabrication project on the truck. I started with a plan and the end product is not what I was aiming for. I mean it works and everything is as it should be, but the overall setup is not what I originally envisioned. I end up designing as I went.

This is exactly what I needed to see. :bow: How much lift do you have? how much of a drop pitman arm and how much of a stroke are your shocks? I'm trying to stick to my plan as much as possible but like you have ran into it's not always fitting. These trucks have a goofy frame bend which limits a lot of up travel unless it's a linked truck.
 
I won't be able to make it this year but this truck will be in Moab 2014 unless my life plan doesn't allow it.
 
It's not in this years budget either unfortunately.

I wanted to measure the frame with this guide today, but I didn't make it out.

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(see attachment also for key)

I also found out where I get my building OCD from. My Father is the same way. :eek1: We are designing a patio for my sisters new house and getting a build materials list together. Only one exception, he knows what he is doing. :haha:
 

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This is exactly what I needed to see. :bow: How much lift do you have? how much of a drop pitman arm and how much of a stroke are your shocks? I'm trying to stick to my plan as much as possible but like you have ran into it's not always fitting. These trucks have a goofy frame bend which limits a lot of up travel unless it's a linked truck.

About 5" to 5.5" of lift because of how I had to set up the hangers in the 2wd truck. I think the shocks are listed as 15" but they really measured like 14.5".
 
We will have close to the identical setup down to the hoops. :D Do you know how much travel your springs are good for, I would assume 12 like mine? Did you go with 1.5 inch of left over shock travel for up and down? Judging by your pics, I will most likely put the bump stops so the pit man arm is right over the springs.

The reason I can't do the bumps later is they need to sit in the cans like this.

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I might leave a half inch extra of the bump body for fine tuning if that is ok. What do you think Wade?
 
LOTS of this fabrication stuff involves assemble, disassemble, re-assemble, disassemble, and over and over until it works... do your bumps LAST!
 
The bumps have to sit all of the way into the can. No adjusting later, unless you can find a shim ring of some kind.

You need to know the full stuff limit for setting up the shocks, then once those are done, you should mount the bumps to limit the up travel so nothing hits or binds. And shocks don't bottom out.
 
We will have close to the identical setup down to the hoops. :D Do you know how much travel your springs are good for, I would assume 12 like mine? Did you go with 1.5 inch of left over shock travel for up and down? Judging by your pics, I will most likely put the bump stops so the pit man arm is right over the springs.

I might leave a half inch extra of the bump body for fine tuning if that is ok. What do you think Wade?

Stephen said to plan for 5.5" of up travel. Since the shocks are further outboard you need to allow for additional travel. I'm still limited by the clearance between pitman arm and tie rod. I'm debating about modifying the pitman arm and putting the drag link on top.

Why can't you wait to install the bump cans later?
 
FOA bumps have 3 different adjustable heights in the can.

I have fox 2.0 with 3 inch stroke.

Stephen said to plan for 5.5" of up travel. Since the shocks are further outboard you need to allow for additional travel. I'm still limited by the clearance between pitman arm and tie rod. I'm debating about modifying the pitman arm and putting the drag link on top.

Why can't you wait to install the bump cans later?

In order to properly set the cans up correctly I need to set them with cycling the suspension.
I think at this point, I should order cross over set the bumps to where it clears the drag link with a inch of shaft showing and shoot the rest to drop. I have 12 inch travel springs and 14 inch travel shocks so 13 inches would go to ride height and drop. Does this make sense and is it a safe plan?
 
If you have some hard limits on up-travel that hit before the suspension runs out, like steering clearance, then yeah you should be fine to use that as your guide for where to set them.
 
I'm thinking it's the best decision as well. Curious to see what others have to say as well.

I might just order the cross over anyway and put it on a credit card. I would like to talk to ORD and see what they think.
 
Tomorrow is my day off so I should be able to make a phone call in.

Wade, I think you are a expert also in this also. I got laughed at today for making a straight axle pre runner at work. :doah: I showed him pics of your jimmy in the air he almost crapped himself. :haha:
 
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