Yes, that's what makes this so great. 
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
Haven't done any work recently, waiting on my trip coming up to see how broke I am before I spend the cash on the truck.
If I come back and not broke I plan on ordering cross over, the TNA engine cross member and a anti rock sway bar. Would a track bar be useful in my setup?
I'm thinking about mounting the sway bar a little different. Instead of cutting a hole in the frame how about using a mounting pillow block? http://www.amazon.com/Pillow-Block-..._1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1370820673&sr=1-1
If I come back and not broke I plan on ordering cross over, the TNA engine cross member and a anti rock sway bar. Would a track bar be useful in my setup?
I'm thinking about mounting the sway bar a little different. Instead of cutting a hole in the frame how about using a mounting pillow block? http://www.amazon.com/Pillow-Block-..._1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1370820673&sr=1-1
As long as the pillow block will slide onto the bar and fit tight. Any slop will rattle and wear the bar out.
Yes, the bar would fit snug as a button in the block. Would the track bar be pointless on my setup? Or should I wait to add one when it gets linked? 
I think the sway bar would be enough, but want to make sure. My reasoning behind the sway bar is I think it will tighten up the front end a lot and I want to drive this down the highway going 80.
I think the sway bar would be enough, but want to make sure. My reasoning behind the sway bar is I think it will tighten up the front end a lot and I want to drive this down the highway going 80.
Don't do the track bar unless it is truly needed. It's really hard on leaf bushings and shackles.
How would I know if it is needed? I'm not entirely sure what one is used for, I believe it's for movement horizontal.
I just used a speed square and a 2x4 to measure for the oil pan clearance to the cross member. Seems it will allow clearance with the ls pan. Now if if clears the axle on full bump.
Anyone need a big block ORD engine member?
I just used a speed square and a 2x4 to measure for the oil pan clearance to the cross member. Seems it will allow clearance with the ls pan. Now if if clears the axle on full bump.
Anyone need a big block ORD engine member?
When turning, the truck will feel like it has a push as you go into the corner. And it may float side to side going down the road. With your set up, I doubt you will need it.
Ok, fair enough. I can't wait to come back and get started on the truck again. I hate looking at it just sitting and not getting further.
PM sent
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In a year, happy build anniversary ole blue. I thought you would be on the road by now but you can't rush perfection.
This is also the last time I drove it around the block before over heating the engine with no coolant.
I would like to thank everyone so far that has helped me on the way. I would especially like to thank Wade for taking time out of his day to show me a thing or to about painting.
Should be going outside soon to take some measurement and hopefully be ordering a few expensive things today.
To this
In a year, happy build anniversary ole blue. I thought you would be on the road by now but you can't rush perfection.
This is also the last time I drove it around the block before over heating the engine with no coolant.I would like to thank everyone so far that has helped me on the way. I would especially like to thank Wade for taking time out of his day to show me a thing or to about painting.
Should be going outside soon to take some measurement and hopefully be ordering a few expensive things today.
You only got another year until Blazer Bash 2014 so you can be one of the fourteeners.
That is my plan, what is the fourteeners you speak of?
All the people that seem to be building for the 2014 event. I'm marketing a name to drum up attendance.
I was hoping to make it this year, but with my recent trip it wasn't possible. Not to mention the truck not finished, fourteeners it is.
I added up a shopping list of things, to the grand total of $1800.
I have been researching car pc's, I want on board diagnostics and many other things.
I added up a shopping list of things, to the grand total of $1800.
I have been researching car pc's, I want on board diagnostics and many other things.
After looking at the truck for about 20 mins, I don't know how I'm going to get a sway bar to work right yet.
I thought I was going to get this to work.
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Universal-Antirock-Sway-Bar-Kits-p-17993.html
Anybody got ideas?
I thought I was going to get this to work.
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Universal-Antirock-Sway-Bar-Kits-p-17993.html
Anybody got ideas?
Get everything else in. Buy some PVC and tape a fake one in. See if you have the room.
Not a bad idea, the reason the one above won't work is with the shock mounts on the axle tube. Currie doesn't have a selection of bar with the correct length, I need it to be about 40 inches. I see why you didn't put one on yours! The axle tube is about 8 inches from the springs to the end of the tube and I need to have the shock mounts and link mounts for the sway bar.
Tomorrow I will be ordering the TnA engine cross member and most likely the headers. I want everything to fit like a glove with no mistakes.
Tomorrow I will be ordering the TnA engine cross member and most likely the headers. I want everything to fit like a glove with no mistakes.
Those plates you made for the bumps could be revised to also mount the sway bar links.
That is true, didn't think about that... I wonder how much revision I would need. From the outsides of both spring plates the measurement is 36 5/8ths.
They do sell a 36 inch bar, but the arms are 17 inches long and that is way to long... Perhaps they could be cut and re welded.
From what I have read, the last hole should be vertical to the lower link mounting.
For the bump plate modification I could go with something like this, I would use a thicker mounting tab though.
They do sell a 36 inch bar, but the arms are 17 inches long and that is way to long... Perhaps they could be cut and re welded.
From what I have read, the last hole should be vertical to the lower link mounting.
For the bump plate modification I could go with something like this, I would use a thicker mounting tab though.
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Not always. That's why there are multiple holes. Leverage changes depending on the hole. The shorter the arm, the stronger the sway bar is.
