CK5
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It sucks I wish I could stick it to the side and build it but priorities take charge.

Didn't expect to need this stuff so soon.
IMAG0895_zpsuzrgvksu.jpg
 
Well the Engine sounds fine today, don't want to run it for long.


208motorsports took a look at my data logging. Around 4500 my passenger o2 drops voltage going into a lean condition. Also believes I'm maxed out on injector and sense the feed line is on the driver side the cross over could go lean.
 
A little late for this, but really sorry for the bad luck brotha. I hope you can get it back on the road soon.
 
Thanks man, no worries it's just a engine. Plenty to go around. I'm just glad I caught it early enough!!
 
It's coming out tomorrow, and hopefully to the shop on Monday if not Tuesday for sure.

Once it's back in, I need to figure out what's wrong with the o2.
 
It's coming out tomorrow, and hopefully to the shop on Monday if not Tuesday for sure.

Once it's back in, I need to figure out what's wrong with the o2.


Bummer man...

Just out of curiosity, is there any benefit to tearing into the existing motor vs. just throwing in another used motor? I thought that the main appeal of doing an "LS swap" was the availability of thousands of junkyard motors for next to nothing? :dunno:

I realize that there are a lot of hidden costs associated with getting wiring harnesses modified, setting up a drive by wire throttle, etc. But since your truck is already set up, it seems like you just pull out the bad "lump", and put in a replacement "lump"... It seems like if you pay a shop more than a few man-hours of labor and start throwing machining or parts costs at it, you might have been better off with a different $500-600 junkyard motor.

Not sure if this is how the numbers work in real life or not. :thinking:


-G
 
A used engine is a used engine. 6.0's around here range from 750-1500 if I can get lucky with some bearings I'll be ahead.

I'm betting a hour or so and the engine is out, it's so simple and easy.
 
Not to mention it does give you the ability to peer inside one, learn a bit, and maybe squeeze some more ponies out. If the cam is wiped out for example, no sense in going back to the stocker.
 
Not to mention it does give you the ability to peer inside one, learn a bit, and maybe squeeze some more ponies out. If the cam is wiped out for example, no sense in going back to the stocker.


I guess so... But if you've had metal circulating around internally doesn't that pretty much require you to pull everything apart to fully clean the oil passages and check ALL bearing surfaces? It just seems like doing things correctly is going to start adding up to a lot of hours....

-G
 
At one time you mentioned that you had low or no oil pressure, did you ever figure that problem out.
 
Thinking the 2 are related, ive seen rod bearings do just that, then come back to pressure.

Honestly, I would be extremely tentative about running one after that much metal had circulated through it as Greg mentioned
 
Thinking the 2 are related, ive seen rod bearings do just that, then come back to pressure.

Honestly, I would be extremely tentative about running one after that much metal had circulated through it as Greg mentioned

Draining the oil took I would say 95% of it out. The machine shop when they go through the engine they are going to clean the block.
 
Damnit, stupid new website wasn't giving me new post alerts in your thread and I almost missed a blown engine!

Sorry Ben, this seems to be story with all these old trucks, the more you modify them the more they break. :crazy::doah:
 
It still runs, didn't over heat and still has oil psi. But while I can save it less damage the better.
 
Sounds like you are going the route I would. $130 is cheap, and you have the knowledge of a good shop telling you what needs to happen next. Good luck dude!
 
Sounds like you are going the route I would. $130 is cheap, and you have the knowledge of a good shop telling you what needs to happen next. Good luck dude!

And you'll learn more stuff in the process, right?
 

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