Somehow I'm not surprised you have a weak grip.....
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
I used mine to crimp the e-brake cable on my truck. Good for all kinds of things
And here I was thinking I was the only one that did that.
That’s why I bought mine.
Yeap crimped the e brake cables on the manx type buggy, 14.5 shorter than stork pan. works good, made a few dog run cables with as well
@Babaganoosh I'm curious to hear your thoughts on the MSD solid state relay block. Seems like a nice product.
So far so good, the only thing that scares me is you strip the wire and screw it down with the vibration of offroad.
I might crimp spade connectors on and grind them to fit.
I have some connections like that and they've been okay for 8 years.
Scott, I’ve used the hammer style crimper for 20+ years….bought a hydro one and I’ll NEVER hammer another one….I had been debating about getting a crimper like that. I've had good luck using the hammer style in a 20ton press so I'm curious to hear feedback before I switch methods. I saw your picture of the crimp on IG, so I decided to make you post about here too by asking the question.
Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel for Moab prep,
decided to switch action and get the necessary stuff done first. Knocking out the little things before I get on the creature comforts. Pulled the front diff cover for the first time sense the build in 2015 and the gears look perfect, that made me happy sense I broke them in on Metal Masher in Moab.
decided to switch action and get the necessary stuff done first. Knocking out the little things before I get on the creature comforts. Pulled the front diff cover for the first time sense the build in 2015 and the gears look perfect, that made me happy sense I broke them in on Metal Masher in Moab.
All new fluids in the truck for them to drain out now.
Next step is drilling out the cab bolts, I'm thinking about measuring then drilling through the floor and hopefully bust the nut off inside tack welded. I know a couple are broke but I ended up breaking a bolt off on a couple.... Yes it's been like this sense 2015 and I have only had 2.5 cab bolts holding it down all this time...
Next step is drilling out the cab bolts, I'm thinking about measuring then drilling through the floor and hopefully bust the nut off inside tack welded. I know a couple are broke but I ended up breaking a bolt off on a couple.... Yes it's been like this sense 2015 and I have only had 2.5 cab bolts holding it down all this time...
And no nuns died? Amazing!All new fluids in the truck for them to drain out now.
Next step is drilling out the cab bolts, I'm thinking about measuring then drilling through the floor and hopefully bust the nut off inside tack welded. I know a couple are broke but I ended up breaking a bolt off on a couple.... Yes it's been like this sense 2015 and I have only had 2.5 cab bolts holding it down all this time...
I drove it 25 miles Monday down the freeway at 75 with no cab bolts.And no nuns died? Amazing!
You put a lot of faith in the shifter linkages and steering shaft holding it all together!!!I drove it 25 miles Monday down the freeway at 75 with no cab bolts.
uhhh the steering was a little weird...
Here is a little bit of a guide, although I hope to not drill as many holes as this guy did. I plan on putting real nuts onto the bolt and rubber plugs in the floor.
I did some on a pretty rusty cab way back just out of high school. If I remember correctly I just drove the broken bolt/nut up with a punch and it dented the floor from below enough that I could find the spots from inside. I cut square holes with a cutoff wheel and removed the nut and then ran big bolts all the way through with like a 4" square washer plate and just put floor mats or carpet over it. If I did it again I'd weld the bolt to the plate from below so there was no bolt head.
Stole this off of IG
If you had the cab welded to a cage that was welded to the frame, this would be a non-issue.
Yeah do that easy to weld back.
