CK5
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I wish they would make the sealed relays with the mounting tab on the connector so the relay just pops in and out. I've used relays like pictured which are nice because you can lock them together, but they aren't sealed. I dope them up with dielectric grease.

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@Babaganoosh I'm also running Leash relay blocks and haven't had any trouble. I don't think you can change the individual relays. They do have fuses that can obviously be changed out, but I'm pretty certain the relays are potted in.

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I wish they would make the sealed relays with the mounting tab on the connector so the relay just pops in and out. I've used relays like pictured which are nice because you can lock them together, but they aren't sealed. I dope them up with dielectric grease.

View attachment 452007
I agree, I've used those before in the interior, but you normally don't run high current in the interior anyway.
 
I wish they would make the sealed relays with the mounting tab on the connector so the relay just pops in and out. I've used relays like pictured which are nice because you can lock them together, but they aren't sealed. I dope them up with dielectric grease.

View attachment 452007

@Babaganoosh I'm also running Leash relay blocks and haven't had any trouble. I don't think you can change the individual relays. They do have fuses that can obviously be changed out, but I'm pretty certain the relays are potted in.

View attachment 452008
Makes you wonder why they have it sealed.
 
There's a chance they aren't, I just don't want to wreck a good one trying to find out.
 
Napa sells this guy. I don't know the relay number. I have Lawson relays in my shop supplies. I use that pigtail with my 24 volt Cat relays.
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Napa sells this guy. I don't know the relay number. I have Lawson relays in my shop supplies. I use that pigtail with my 24 volt Cat relays.
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Personally I won’t use pigtails like that. I’m not splicing. And the all white sucks. I prefer to terminate with the correct spade at the connector.
 
Personally I won’t use pigtails like that. I’m not splicing. And the all white sucks. I prefer to terminate with the correct spade at the connector.
That’s the hard part it is just so easy to butt splice connect then assemble those for most.
 
Nothing a wire nut won't fix:haha:

So my little secret, ALL the dash and gauge grounds in my buggy/race car have always been, since 2003, wire nutted together. It was a quick try it out thing late one night that sort of just stuck and hung around,


Don't knock it until you've tried it for a few decades :D:whistle:
 
I prefer not to splice, if I can use a proper sealed connector I do.

But if I have to I do not like butt connectors that are pre covered in anyway, even the heat shrink kind, because I can't solder them. I do use the bare kind that are made to solder for anything 10 AWG or above, then I solder them, then heat shrink. Anything about 12 - 14 and smaller I twist them together in opposite direction to create a clean inline splice, then I solder, then heat shrink with the adhesive lined stuff. This creates a clean reliable sealed splice. This doesn't work so well with the thicker wire because of the stiffness, hence the solder type butt connectors.
 
I prefer not to splice, if I can use a proper sealed connector I do.

But if I have to I do not like butt connectors that are pre covered in anyway, even the heat shrink kind, because I can't solder them. I do use the bare kind that are made to solder for anything 10 AWG or above, then I solder them, then heat shrink. Anything about 12 - 14 and smaller I twist them together in opposite direction to create a clean inline splice, then I solder, then heat shrink with the adhesive lined stuff. This creates a clean reliable sealed splice. This doesn't work so well with the thicker wire because of the stiffness, hence the solder type butt connectors.

Interesting.

I have read that for certain industries (Aircraft, Aerospace) a soldered joint is never allowed. The theory that the stiffness of the soldered joint can lead to a fracture at the point where the wire become flexible again. So all joints can be crimped, shrinktubed and wrapped... but never soldered. :thinking:

Of course, if the harness is properly supported and anchored down, it seems virtually impossible to get enough movement or vibration to cause a wire failure at a solder joint.... but I suppose in certain applications (like aerospace) there is ZERO tolerance for risk of failure no matter how small.


-G
 
So my little secret, ALL the dash and gauge grounds in my buggy/race car have always been, since 2003, wire nutted together. It was a quick try it out thing late one night that sort of just stuck and hung around,


Don't knock it until you've tried it for a few decades :D:whistle:
When I do a shortcut method like that I tell myself, "I'll fix it right later when I have more time." But deep down I know it'll stay that way forever.
 
When I do a shortcut method like that I tell myself, "I'll fix it right later when I have more time." But deep down I know it'll stay that way forever.
I chased the white UA ORD truck through Moab and kept popping my fuel pump relay... I linked zip ties together to support it and left it on for multiple years.
 
Interesting.

I have read that for certain industries (Aircraft, Aerospace) a soldered joint is never allowed. The theory that the stiffness of the soldered joint can lead to a fracture at the point where the wire become flexible again. So all joints can be crimped, shrinktubed and wrapped... but never soldered. :thinking:

Of course, if the harness is properly supported and anchored down, it seems virtually impossible to get enough movement or vibration to cause a wire failure at a solder joint.... but I suppose in certain applications (like aerospace) there is ZERO tolerance for risk of failure no matter how small.


-G
Our old Baja prepared and raced Hi Jumper, built in the 70's, everything was soldered under the dash, well supported.
Every brutal outting at least 1 if not more solder connections would need to be repaired, they cracked.
Idk when shrink tube was invented, but I'm guessing the average back yard racer didn't know or could afford. I think shrink tube might help, but no proof.

When I do a shortcut method like that I tell myself, "I'll fix it right later when I have more time." But deep down I know it'll stay that way forever.
A saying I try to live by, If don't have time to do it right the first time you'll never have time do it right the second.
So that has enabled some procrastinating, but sometimes I get things just right.
 
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Interesting.

I have read that for certain industries (Aircraft, Aerospace) a soldered joint is never allowed. The theory that the stiffness of the soldered joint can lead to a fracture at the point where the wire become flexible again. So all joints can be crimped, shrinktubed and wrapped... but never soldered. :thinking:

Of course, if the harness is properly supported and anchored down, it seems virtually impossible to get enough movement or vibration to cause a wire failure at a solder joint.... but I suppose in certain applications (like aerospace) there is ZERO tolerance for risk of failure no matter how small.


-G
As far as I know, none of the OEM mfg solder any connections for that reason either.
 
Interesting.

I have read that for certain industries (Aircraft, Aerospace) a soldered joint is never allowed. The theory that the stiffness of the soldered joint can lead to a fracture at the point where the wire become flexible again. So all joints can be crimped, shrinktubed and wrapped... but never soldered. :thinking:

Of course, if the harness is properly supported and anchored down, it seems virtually impossible to get enough movement or vibration to cause a wire failure at a solder joint.... but I suppose in certain applications (like aerospace) there is ZERO tolerance for risk of failure no matter how small.


-G
I think both those thought processes are correct. Solder is harder than the copper, so it can become brittle if it is allowed to bend more than during setup. They key is, don't allow it to bend repeatedly.

The automotive manufacturers don't use solder on wire harnesses, they also don't use any butt connectors or splices, everything is in a sealed connector that's crimped, and those connectors go through a lot of vibration testing to look for any corrosion of fretting, plating issues, etc. When I worked for a supplier we also had to heat up sensors, and then, while plugged in and hot, dunk them in 20 different fluids or solutions, including saltwater, paints, solvents, fuels, etc. The shock of the cold fluid on the hot connector would find any leaks, which would be a fail if it leaked.

They do use solder in fixed objects like sensors, PCB, ECU, etc.

There are people who have devoted their entire careers to solder joints, you wouldn't believe the detail I saw during manufacturing engineering conferences on just the flowing of solder.

The thing I don't like about crimping through the heat shrink, is I don't believe you can get a good crimp, without ruining the seal of the heat shrink. You can get a good crimp, but it will likely compromise the heat shrink, and if you crimp it gently, you can't get a good crimp, but the heat shrink is fine. That's why I crimp, then solder, then heat shrink. But I only create splices where it is supported and not allowed to move during use.

Another difference is they don't normally allow airplane wiring get exposed to the weather as much, although I am sure there must be exceptions to that somewhere on the planes, but even then I wouldn't think it would see any salt spray from the road, though I suppose its possible on the runway. It just seems like everything is more sealed up on a plane than a vehicle that's open underneath.
 
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Struggling to get anything done, it’s way to hot. I still haven’t put diff fluid in and the MSD hasn’t shown up yet.

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