1984 K30 "C4" Truggy on Rockwells

[Kay86K5]

Not even a little bit now that you've jinxed yourself?

I don't believe in that crap. No, I'm not worried. Also, I have a hard time believing that my brand new poly motor mounts and trans mount are somehow going to wear out faster than that new poly mount on the back of the t-case (none of which have any drive time on them at this point) to allow enough twist in the drivetrain to cause any actual problems. The only time I've actually seen that is when people do a mount like this but never changed out there crappy rubber (or worn out poly) engine or trans mounts, meaning now you do have a lot of twist in the drivetrain which for sure will cause that issue. Or have a crazy amount of frame flex causing drivetrain flex with a mount setup like this too.

I just feel like the interwebs exaggerate these types of problems a lot and they are for sure a case by case basis, not a holistic "you have to do it this way" type of thing. I see the same thing with people's opinions online with how to build motors.

 

[mrk5]

Some must have peed in your Wheaties this morning.

 

[Kay86K5]

Some must have peed in your Wheaties this morning.

No, just interweb opinions get a smidge annoying to me sometimes. I blame social media really. I guess I'm already moving into the grumpy old guy stage in life even though I'm only in my mid-30's, haha

 

[obijuank5]

I know I know its bad luck to be superstitious. But thats how I got my first two doublers for cheap. Guys broke their rigs trans cases so frequently they couldn't afford to keep wheeling. I seent it! I'd feel bad if I never said anything if something happened.

 

[mrk5]

I know I know its bad luck to be superstitious. But thats how I got my first two doublers for cheap. Guys broke their rigs trans cases so frequently they couldn't afford to keep wheeling. I seent it! I'd feel bad if I never said anything if something happened.

Be careful, you going to make him mad again!

 

[beags86]

He's right. The internet is full of a bunch of crybaby bitchs, That have one bad experience and go around slandering something or someone because they are to fu*king stupid to figure it out for themselves. Don't even get me started about building engines on the interwebz.

I say rock the mount as it.

 

[beags86]

I also see your holding out on us again. Whats the shortbed about?

 

[Kay86K5]

I also see your holding out on us again. Whats the shortbed about?

85 c10 I picked up last month. Completely rust free with a running 350/700r4 that I paid $2500 for (I thought it was a good deal for a rust free factory shortbed 2wd). I grew up going to the drag strip with my dad, and I have a pretty legit drag strip 15 min from my house, so I thought it was time to get something to take to the strip. I’ve been mapping out what I wanna do to that thing as I finish this one. My initial plan is lowered (probably a 4/6 drop) with a 30” or 31” drag radial in the back. Want a street strip type of rig. Since I have an alright running 350 in it, I think I may do a 383 outta it (something like 450 hp NA) and throw 100 shot of nitrous for the track. But who knows. We’ll see where that one goes when I start it. I promised myself to finish this project first before I spend any money on the c10. If I can just get that thing into the mid to upper 12’s at the track and still drive on the street alright, I’ll be way happy

 

[beags86]

85 c10 I picked up last month. Completely rust free with a running 350/700r4 that I paid $2500 for (I thought it was a good deal for a rust free factory shortbed 2wd). I grew up going to the drag strip with my dad, and I have a pretty legit drag strip 15 min from my house, so I thought it was time to get something to take to the strip. I’ve been mapping out what I wanna do to that thing as I finish this one. My initial plan is lowered (probably a 4/6 drop) with a 30” or 31” drag radial in the back. Want a street strip type of rig. Since I have an alright running 350 in it, I think I may do a 383 outta it (something like 450 hp NA) and throw 100 shot of nitrous for the track. But who knows. We’ll see where that one goes when I start it. I promised myself to finish this project first before I spend any money on the c10. If I can just get that thing into the mid to upper 12’s at the track and still drive on the street alright, I’ll be way happy

View attachment 366508

Huh. 383 eh? Snorfest.
I'm building a 489 for my c10. I haven't updated the thread, and probably won't, (kinda over build threads) but I have made some decent progress given i have been putting most of my money in my chevelle.
Anyway, for context it will be running 24 degree dart pro ones, rectangle port, with a solid roller cam. With a holley mfpi manifold and a dominator ecu. Spraying 125/150 with a stand alone nitrous full system. Goal is 650hp na spraying my way to 750/800 hp.

I just got news today my dart heads are shipping atfer a 2/3 month wait (I don't even remember how long) so I can continue with the quest.
The 489 will get a 4 speed Muncie and a 9 inch to round out the drive train. Should be fun. Stick shift in the high 9s.

Anyway. I like the truck. But. Big block.



Oh yeah, my dd caddy is in the high 12s and I think that's to slow.

 

[Kay86K5]

Huh. 383 eh? Snorfest.
I'm building a 489 for my c10. I haven't updated the thread, and probably won't, (kinda over build threads) but I have made some decent progress given i have been putting most of my money in my chevelle.
Anyway, for context it will be running 24 degree dart pro ones, rectangle port, with a solid roller cam. With a holley mfpi manifold and a dominator ecu. Spraying 125/150 with a stand alone nitrous full system. Goal is 650hp na spraying my way to 750/800 hp.

I just got news today my dart heads are shipping atfer a 2/3 month wait (I don't even remember how long) so I can continue with the quest.
The 489 will get a 4 speed Muncie and a 9 inch to round out the drive train. Should be fun. Stick shift in the high 9s.

Anyway. I like the truck. But. Big block.

View attachment 366518

Oh yeah, my dd caddy is in the high 12s and I think that's to slow.

I haven’t ruled out big block. And who knows, maybe that is what I end up doing. But I have 3 big blocks right now and kinda like doing different stuff, and haven’t done a stroker small block yet. Like I said, just mapping out what I wanna do for the time being. Nothing will happen to it for a while

 

[beags86]

I haven’t ruled out big block. And who knows, maybe that is what I end up doing. But I have 3 big blocks right now and kinda like doing different stuff, and haven’t done a stroker small block yet. Like I said, just mapping out what I wanna do for the time being. Nothing will happen to it for a while

Well FYI any small block with proper ring gap, forged pistons and head studs will take a 200 shot.
I actually have my 406 set up that way. Even though its currently on the back burner thats probably a legit 700 horse engine. Dart heads, big roller cam, dyno'ed out at 475 na, going with a nitrous outlet 200hp kit on it.
Most kits make slighty more then they advertise.
Food for thought.

 

[Kay86K5]

Well FYI any small block with proper ring gap, forged pistons and head studs will take a 200 shot.
I actually have my 406 set up that way. Even though its currently on the back burner thats probably a legit 700 horse engine. Dart heads, big roller cam, dyno'ed out at 475 na, going with a nitrous outlet 200hp kit on it.
Most kits make slight more then the advertise.
Food for thought.

Oh yeah for sure, and I’m thinking if I really decide to throw nitrous at it and if I’m going full rebuild to stroke it, then I’d just setup the ring gap to handle whatever shot I wanna throw at it. Kinda why I really want to map out the build first before I start spending money. That way I have a really good plan and a good idea on cost

 

[beags86]

Oh yeah for sure, and I’m thinking if I really decide to throw nitrous at it and if I’m going full rebuild to stroke it, then I’d just setup the ring gap to handle whatever shot I wanna throw at it. Kinda why I really want to map out the build first before I start spending money. That way I have a really good plan and a good idea on cost

Well good luck with the cost thing. I will say that a sbc full rebuild is substantially cheaper then a bbc. Dont get snowballed. I'll watch either way.

 

[mrk5]

After watching Engine Masters; if I just wanted go fast power as relatively cheap as possible, I would buy a 5.3L and turbo charge it.

 

[beags86]

After watching Engine Masters; if I just wanted go fast power as relatively cheap as possible, I would buy a 5.3L and turbo charge it.

Then you would have a yucky engine under the hood. And who wants that?

 

[mrk5]

Then you would have a yucky engine under the hood. And who wants that?

Well I wouldn't, but if a person wanted "cheap" power..... Although I often laugh at what those shows consider "cheap", but still.

 

[beags86]

Well I wouldn't, but if a person wanted "cheap" power..... Although I often laugh at what those shows consider "cheap", but still.

Whats cheap about an LS swap? If your turbocharging a ls powered vehicle sure.
But if your ls swaping a truck and adding a power adder, you better open your wallet.

 

[Kay86K5]

After watching Engine Masters; if I just wanted go fast power as relatively cheap as possible, I would buy a 5.3L and turbo charge it.

Well I wouldn't, but if a person wanted "cheap" power..... Although I often laugh at what those shows consider "cheap", but still.

Whats cheap about an LS swap? If your turbocharging a ls powered vehicle sure.
But if your ls swaping a truck and adding a power adder, you better open your wallet.

I'm not gonna lie, LS is kinda last on my list. I have nothing against LS, I think they're fantastic motors, but in this thing it's either going to be a big block, or a 383 built outta the running 350 that's already in it. After doing the 8.1 swap (big block with LS injection on it...so essentially the same thing as an LS swap) I always laugh when I hear people say, "Just LS swap it, you can do if for cheap nowadays!" It's all the little bull crap that adds crazy money into an LS swap (cooling system, fueling system, wiring, conversion mounts, exhaust, etc.).

With the c10, I'm going to keep it carbureted, and I also have realistic expectations as to what a full size 2wd truck with a full interior can do at the drag strip (and factoring in that I still want to drive it on the street if I want and actually have it idle somewhat decent). I want something I can drive to the drag strip (maybe with some slicks in the back), swap the slicks on and adjust timing for nitrous and have some fun running down the track. Then swap the radials back on and drive home. I'm not there to try and win anything, I just want to have some fun. That's why I'm leaning towards 383 with the current motor in the truck cause I know I can get to that point with that combo and it probably is the cheapest too. My heart still says big block, and like I said, when the time comes if I come across a deal that is to good to pass up for a big block then I'll do it, but at this time I'm leaning towards the 383 variant

 

[Kay86K5]

To get back to this build, I have been doing a bunch of small things on it. Mainly I converted the TH400 cooler lines to flexible 6an lines and fittings from the tranny up to the radiator. Also been getting all the breather hoses on the tranny and doubler done. Just small stuff like that.

Next thing I need to get is shifters for the tranny and tcase. Then I need to get driveshafts, then exhaust and it's moving

 

[CharlesC83]

really like the Truck. Good to see another Idaho guy. My Fiance was Born in Emmett.

not to derail, but I share the LS swap opinion, I have a really good 5.3 core that was free, but should be rebuilt in my opinion. And I priced out what It really cost to swap it in and shit wasn't free or cheap.