What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

1985: FrankenBurban 3/4 ton 4x4 grassroots hauler

Overview Gallery Discussion
OR!

Either I have the wrong combination of damper and timing pointer (they moved around a lot over the years)unless I am timing it off of #2, which fires 90 degrees ahead of cylinder #1. 18436572. #1 is driver's side, #2 is passenger side.

BUT!
well to avoid the dampener confusion I ordered a new harmonic balancer appropriate for this engine and vehicle model year(1985). They differ in part number from 86-91 and the 85 and earlier spec.

The crate engine came with 2 timing pointers but with the truck harmonic balancer being 8" it doesn't look like the other one fits at all. I can take a picture of both for clarification.
When I found TDC on cyl one I had the driver side valve cover off so I could see the rockers and make sure that both valves were closed at TDC 1 compression stroke for distributor instillation.


I'm so close I can taste it!! I need to get this ready ASAP so I can break it in enough because I want to haul the car for a 2 day event on the 20th and there is a wedding in traverse city this weekend that I have to stand up in so that weekend is shot :/
 
fidelity101 said:
OR!

Either I have the wrong combination of damper and timing pointer (they moved around a lot over the years)unless I am timing it off of #2, which fires 90 degrees ahead of cylinder #1. 18436572. #1 is driver's side, #2 is passenger side.

BUT!
well to avoid the dampener confusion I ordered a new harmonic balancer appropriate for this engine and vehicle model year(1985). They differ in part number from 86-91 and the 85 and earlier spec.

The crate engine came with 2 timing pointers but with the truck harmonic balancer being 8" it doesn't look like the other one fits at all. I can take a picture of both for clarification.
When I found TDC on cyl one I had the driver side valve cover off so I could see the rockers and make sure that both valves were closed at TDC 1 compression stroke for distributor instillation.


I'm so close I can taste it!! I need to get this ready ASAP so I can break it in enough because I want to haul the car for a 2 day event on the 20th and there is a wedding in traverse city this weekend that I have to stand up in so that weekend is shot :/
Click to expand...


Hints Chevy has a 12 o'clock, and a 2 o clock dampner/timing tab set up. Verify which is which, which goes on what, etc.
 
Well I figured out my problem(s)

1. the harbor freight timing gun is crap.

2. I had cyl 3 and 6 mixed up on the distributor.

3. The accelerator cable on the vehicle is for the diesel, its way too long.

4. The aftermarket harmonic balancer timing location is way off.

5. not sure the vacuum advance works on the distributor.

So I reset it to TDC #1 compression, and made a mark for true 0*, re-adjusted the timing and it fired right up, and on all cylinders. I had to run to the junkyard to get the right throttle bracket (just to be safe) and at that time I inspected various vehicles. it looks like on an 84 year I saw the timing tab at 12 oclock.
 
I've been way too busy but I've made some progress at least. Got it timed, replaced the throttle cable, used a different timing gun, verified that the vacuum advance works.

So I was able to drive it around! but I found out I needed a headlamp, easy 10 dollar fix.

Its almost ready for hauling and camping! But I won't have the time to break it in before the weekend :(

Oil pressure may or may not be a concern, maybe I'm just parinoid. Cold oil pressure is great and while running its fine. Water temp usually stays around 200* but after it is at operating temperature when I'm idling at a light around 800-900 rpm I get about 18-20psi of oil pressure but once I start excelerating it climbs back up to 40+ with ease. Is this normal?

Also I have a running issue to sort out, it does NOT like a "heavy" load, it falls flat on its face. Sounds kind of like a lean bog but smells like a rich bog.

so I gotta check and make sure the secondaries are opening currently but before I installed it I did that and they were fine...
 
fidelity101 said:
I've been way too busy but I've made some progress at least. Got it timed, replaced the throttle cable, used a different timing gun, verified that the vacuum advance works.

So I was able to drive it around! but I found out I needed a headlamp, easy 10 dollar fix.

Its almost ready for hauling and camping! But I won't have the time to break it in before the weekend :(

Oil pressure may or may not be a concern, maybe I'm just parinoid. Cold oil pressure is great and while running its fine. Water temp usually stays around 200* but after it is at operating temperature when I'm idling at a light around 800-900 rpm I get about 18-20psi of oil pressure but once I start excelerating it climbs back up to 40+ with ease. Is this normal?

Also I have a running issue to sort out, it does NOT like a "heavy" load, it falls flat on its face. Sounds kind of like a lean bog but smells like a rich bog.

so I gotta check and make sure the secondaries are opening currently but before I installed it I did that and they were fine...
Click to expand...

Your oil pressure is ideal. 10psi for every 1000rpms
 
Kaiser85 said:
Your oil pressure is ideal. 10psi for every 1000rpms
Click to expand...

That is what I figured because nothing was making any noise.

Just a few more small steps and she is good to go!

It keeps wanting to "slip" the belt, but only part way. so I tightened down the bolts on the AC delete pulley and that seemed to help a lot.


This is the problem I have, I may things way to hard for myself for no reason.
z930.jpg

When I did the serp belt swap I went stamped steel which was only a select few years. This issue didn't happen on the old motor (The January installed one) because of the variation in cylinder heads. The 85 spec motor (outside bolt valve cover) does not have a threaded hole for one of the mounting locations and I have lost the AC bracket brace or never grabbed it from the yard when I got the bracket in the first place. So now the accsessory bracket is less secure to the motor and when the tensioner tensions the belt it flexes a bit more in that region.

k4oi.jpg


the 1/4" extension is point to the location of said mounting location that lacks a threaded hole behind it

it also doesn't help that its 95 outside and 150% humidity recently :(
 
fidelity101 said:
Oil pressure may or may not be a concern, maybe I'm just parinoid. Cold oil pressure is great and while running its fine. Water temp usually stays around 200* but after it is at operating temperature when I'm idling at a light around 800-900 rpm I get about 18-20psi of oil pressure but once I start excelerating it climbs back up to 40+ with ease. Is this normal?

Also I have a running issue to sort out, it does NOT like a "heavy" load, it falls flat on its face. Sounds kind of like a lean bog but smells like a rich bog.

so I gotta check and make sure the secondaries are opening currently but before I installed it I did that and they were fine...
Click to expand...

Oil pressure is fine, should have stuck with the TBI.

Martin
 
Finally found some free time! Picked up some new spark plug wires, installed the front "spoiler" that mounts below the bumper.

After that I Dialed in the ignition, utilized the correct vac ports and it runs like a champ!

Choke is still not hooked up but a few pumps and she fires right up! I sourced some bracket braces from a fellow "nearby" and I will grab them off him at dream cruise time (aug 17th) and if that doesn't fix my belt issue I'm just going back to the junkyard and getting aluminum brackets like I should have done in the first place...

Also I need route my plug wires less hillbilly-esq as well as source a 14" air filter housing, I hate that little holley triflo thing but its better than no filter right now and it was free so its hard to beat that price.
 
it's come a long way..:waytogo:
 
62 fat guy said:
it's come a long way..:waytogo:
Click to expand...

And still more to go!

next on the list (aside from serp belt situation):

1. Windshield
2. Fix accy or hot at all times power situation, IE no horn, cig lighter, dome light (this was happening before the wire gutting and motor swap too)
3. Find and install a radio.
4. Find matching hella lamp and install on bumper.
5. Next tow date is Sept 14th.
 
saof.jpg


cleaned up the grille, installed choke and cruised her around some more.

I picked up some brackets and so far the belt issue has gone away but a few more miles and I will know for sure.

Still need to locate some new un broken headlamp bezels, locate missing vertical plastic chrome pieces on grille, repaint and reinstall.
 
Last edited:
The addition of 2 bracket braces has solved the belt issue! one looks to be the correct one the other looks to be for something else, but it works - who cares! Verified this by cruising about 50 miles up and down woodward over the last 2 days in preperation for the dream cruise this weekend.

Picked up an edelbrock chrome 14" intake instead of that stupid triangle flow foam crap. (pics to come later) but I still need to route/buy wire routing clips to make it looks nice under the hood.

I identified the lack of power (electrical) issue, and it had a blown fuse, replaced fuse - still has not popped but with the hackjob wiring the dome light is now hot at all times because its on the same circuit.

upon searching I came across this:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300862&page=3&highlight=dome+light+wiring

The wiring has the horn, cig lighter and dome light hot at all times wich is fine, except for the dome light. I'm not at the point yet where I am going to re-wire the truck but thats going to happen next year I'm thinkin.

Anywhoo does anyone know where the dome light hot wire (orange) is ran? I do not wish to take down the headliner and trace the wire if I don't have to. I plan on making a dome light switch basically.

OR I need to take down the dome light and check the wiring, I believe there was 3 wires. The wiring schematic in chiltons is helpful but does not show location and etc.

It should be getting 12v at all times (orange wire) then there was a white wire from what I remember and a black wire. When I got my truck it didnt have it so I grabbed a dome light fixture from the junkyard. So how I have it wired it would be always on. It should only come on when the door is opened, so when the door opens it closes the ground/completes the ground circuit and turns the lamp on.

Also need to take a trip to the junkyard and get a new passenger A pillar and glovebox latch assembly.

Maybe next paycheck give it a windshield before I get pulled over and get my roommate to give me hand and replace the rear bumper thats all bent up. Its just too big to be a 1 person job and I have the bumper sitting in the garage waiting to be used.
 
Last edited:
got about 500 miles on the new engine. runs good probably recheck-and adjust timing soon now that its broken in a bit. Commuting 40 miles a day in this back and forth to work is pretty annoying at times but I'm used to being stuck in traffic in a small car now I can see whats going on ahead at least and try to avoid it..

It was also funny driving around my Japanese co-worker in it on lunch the other day.
anywhoo, replaced the rear bumper!
ansz.jpg

Thats the only damage/rust on this beast, if I knew how to fix it - I would. But thats not important now...
and added some nuts because I got them as a joke gift a while back.

Got the rear AC system reinstalled correctly it is functional however it only works on high and I have no air compressor but its nice to know its there. Resto mod continues...

next up:
windshield! (next week)
bilstein shocks (september)
body mounts (TBD)
radio (september)
thinking of painting it back to white...
 
Okay its been a while but here are some overdue updates and some very recent updates as well as what to expect in the future!

1. I fixed the wipers, not exactly sure how mostly wiggle some connectors and witchcraft I guess. They used to not work in the rain but now they really only work in the rain/snow. Go figure. :dunno:

2. Bilstein shocks! one GREAT improvement over the 20+ year old blown shocks. Rides much better for a huge ass truck.

bsn-24-009232_xl.jpg


I had some issues with summit keep sending me the wrong front shocks but after a month of back and forth and some customer service they got it straightened out, gave me a free t-shirt and 25 dollar gift card for my troubles.

now onto the interior!
39ss.jpg


it was starting to rip around some areas and I picked up one of these blankets at a garage sale and secured it to the bench seat with some bunjee cords, pretty rad I know... (also very billy)

njyq.jpg

lvgy.jpg


I thought that the gauge cluster needed some freshening up so I snagged this at a local pick n pull. Couldn't resist the classyness of psudo wood grain.
I also moved my oil pressure and water temp gauges into the "stock" locations so that that they are easier to see while driving and a much more cleaner look.

Now current project is locate spare funds then locate exhaust shop to do this:
irph.jpg


2.75" inlet and 3 or 3.25" outlet with nice tips. But upon closer inspection you will find...

Current exhaust is 2.5" so adapting shouldn't be too hard, I may have to have rear exit on these but however it goes in the easiest way is fine by me.

nh9p.jpg


blue oval eh?? I wonder what these could be from?????

d718.jpg


If you guessed 2012 mustang GT 5.0 you would be correct, roommate purchased this car recently-ish and had them laying around since within a month of buying it he did a cat-back on this thing. These 2 mufflers cost me a 6 pack of beer because he was just going to scrap these...


Whats next?
blower motor and resistor need to be replaced, motor bearings are worn and it makes some awful noises from time to time and some fan speeds work better than others. (next few weeks)

Radio/CD player (spring)
repaint white/replace grille trim/bezels (summer)
maybe some proper sized 33"s on aluminum wheels? (TBD)
Rear disc swap/upgrade (one of these days)
 
Last edited:
Before replacing the motor you could try cleaning it out and greasing it. Mine dried out from multiple water dunkings and I cleaned it out and it works fine now. Sidenote, my rear AC ones always rattled and grinded, what ended up happening was the fans loosened up on the shafts and were rubbing the housing. I super glued them back in right and greased them and they work great as well.
 
454Sub said:
Before replacing the motor you could try cleaning it out and greasing it. Mine dried out from multiple water dunkings and I cleaned it out and it works fine now. Sidenote, my rear AC ones always rattled and grinded, what ended up happening was the fans loosened up on the shafts and were rubbing the housing. I super glued them back in right and greased them and they work great as well.
Click to expand...

I dropped a new crate motor into it in the summer time. My rear AC only works on high setting but no rattles or grindes but I will keep that in mind for the future though. Are you talking about the blower motor under the hood or the rear ac one? you can feel/hear the bearings in the blower motor under the hood when you remove it and spin it by hand, its pretty old and bad. A new one isn't unreasonable but I hear swapping over the fan blades can be a bitch and a half.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom