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1985: FrankenBurban 3/4 ton 4x4 grassroots hauler

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oh... and by the comp cams site if I remember right:thinking:
 
This is one of those, "ask 5 different people, for 5 different answers" scenarios.

Yes, you want to vary the RPM. You also want to prime the oiling system. A long flat head screwdriver shank chucked into a drill will not work. Use either an old distributor that has been modified for this (cam gear removed, etc) or a tool like the one sold by crane. Thing is, youve already stabbed your distributor.... and this is ESSENTIAL

It should go like this-
Engine fires
You instantly rev the motor to 2500RPM
ENSURE you have proper oil pressure (at least 30psi)
Within 2-3 minutes, adjust RPM to 2000
For the next 15-20 minutes make 2-300 RPM variations, never below 1800 RPMs, but as high as 3000.
Dont make these changes abruptly either. Remember the lifters actually spin in the lifterbore.

During this time youre ensuring your temp, and oil pressure stay in the green. Leave the radiator cap off at first so that you can add water as your engine purges any air bubbles trapped inside the water jacket of your engine.

The SBC (and virtually any pushrod v8) oils the camshaft by splashing oil from the crankshaft. The variation in RPMs ensure the splashing pattern varies also, keepibg all 16 lobes of the cam slippery.
 
I have the oil pressure gauge already hooked up as well as the coolant temp (both mechanical)

I guess I'll just install whats missing and hope I can fire it up before I leave for vacation (thursday) Maybe see if I can find a local expert because I don't want to make a brick out of this 1500 dollar engine...

Ugh, piston engines.... more parts more problems :)

since that was the point of pony-ing up for this, no more overhauling - just maintanence.
 
Eh' :dunno: Either way the way these guys on here told me to worked great and it runs strong:waytogo:
 
Anyways, hopefully aiming to get stuff done tomorrow post work, but i came up with a nickname for it. Big black. Except this truck is the only thing that makes an sbc look small...

EDIT:

holy crap huge image, forgot to resize...

zeo0.jpg


I sprayed painted the edelbrock performer with BBQ grill paint.
 
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So i got everything hooked up and ready to go mechanical fuel pump pulls through the efi no problem.. Got dizzy in wrong, some intake backfire. But ran out of time.

Off to pikes peak! Flew into denver to meet up with friends, hit some trails around monument working our way to colorado springs in his jeep but we lost

http://imageshack.us/a/img845/8086/e0ku.jpg

the cooling fan so we went to the junkyard and i had a field day! Never seen so many unrusted vehicles. Especially odd end imports that i like. But you guys wont be interested in those like me But they did have this... bad t case.
 
Got it installed right and broke in the camshaft. Starts and runs but i need to set the timing. It seems to shake quite a bit.
 
Kaiser85 said:
10-12 degrees static advance without the vacuum advance is a good starting point.
Click to expand...

I just gotta get my hands on a timing light now, found the reason for the shaking. Poor spark plug wire routing, it melted a bit by the header. I think it is time to invest into some beefier plug wires...

Anyways had some spare ones laying around so I managed to take it to the gas station and back with no issues.

I need to check my mixture screw as well, if I run 2 throttle return springs it makes initial pedal depress a bit hard but the idle will be a normal 800ish. With just the 1 spring its easier in stop and go but the idle is about 1500.
 
fidelity101 said:
I just gotta get my hands on a timing light now, found the reason for the shaking. Poor spark plug wire routing, it melted a bit by the header. I think it is time to invest into some beefier plug wires...

Anyways had some spare ones laying around so I managed to take it to the gas station and back with no issues.

I need to check my mixture screw as well, if I run 2 throttle return springs it makes initial pedal depress a bit hard but the idle will be a normal 800ish. With just the 1 spring its easier in stop and go but the idle is about 1500.
Click to expand...

Those springs have been known to break..... So wrap your mind around that scenario. Cruising down the highway and your one return spring breaks. Now you've got a runway trick to deal with.

Don't go too long with the timing a question mark either. I've got a set of junk 882 heads in my garage from having too much timing.
 
Kaiser85 said:
Those springs have been known to break..... So wrap your mind around that scenario. Cruising down the highway and your one return spring breaks. Now you've got a runway trick to deal with.

Don't go too long with the timing a question mark either. I've got a set of junk 882 heads in my garage from having too much timing.
Click to expand...


Yeah I had that happen to me on my rx7. I floored it in 2nd for a little bit to get up to 60 in a fun manner, then it broke and kept going! It probably happened as soon as I went WOT but I didn't notice it until I let off to start braking haha. I picked up some new springs from autozone for about 5 bucks.

lmgl.jpg
 
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twin springs shouldn't make ANY difference in pedal OR idle.:dunno: Something needs to be looked at there for sure
 
Look into spark plug heat boots instead of beefy wires, or you just burn through a more expensive set of plug wires.

Martin
 
Yeah im thinking of just getting a set of those with some shorty plugs for headers. Its not the wire part getting burned its the boot.

Yes 1 or 2 springs should not matter. Looks like a ****ty throttle cable, i had it stick on me earlier today and it was making it hard to start. Easy fix.

Also! Bought a timing light w advance. My distributor may be off... I get it warmed up to sub 900rpm idle speed and with the gun at 90 degress advance the strobe matches the mark on the harmonic balancer with the 0* timing Mark.
 
I had boots burning off the plugs in my old monza. turned out it was the plugs for me. the ceramic would spin in the metal. that let comustion get out. really F'd the wires up. I havent bought champions since. I wouldnt think the headers would get hot enough to do that.... unless the valves havent seated totally yet:dunno:
 
Exhaust is going to be hot regardless of if the valves seat, hell my rotary has high exhaust gas temperatures (which is normal) and it doesnt have valves!
 
when ya break in a new motor the exhaust can turn headers cherry red in daylight. thats why you cant break in a new motor with ceramic headers on. has to do with valves not being seated yet from what i was told. normal running shouldnt really do much unless their pressing right up against the tubes
 
Yeah it was touching a bit...

Anyways, I'm assuming im 90* off on my timing. I don't think it would run at 180* off. grrrr
 
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