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1986 GMC 3+3 dually build.- cummins swap.. Round 2, 2024 update.

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Yeah, its not hard at all, just a lot of drilling and well i know myself enough that i took a ton of time measuring and remeasuring so i didnt screw up(to much). Plus I think it would go faster if i could use my full right hand! Not being able to use my thumb sucks!
 
Do you know if the 2wd mounts for the sway bar are in the same location as the 4wd? Did you use a special kind of hole saw for the drill?
 
I think the sway bar mounts are totally different, I had to cut them off the frame and on 4wd they are up near the crossmember. The hole saw is a 15dollar lenox 2" hole saw from lowes its a bimetal blade and worked great.
 
stockk5 said:
I have another question for you guys.... what do I spend 1000bucks on that I got from selling the motor/trans?

I was first thinking, oh ill just get my clutch, however i also need, bellhousing, engine xmember, gallon of rust bullet, and hydro pedal assembly.. what would you guys buy first?
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I say clutch, bell housing, xmember, pedal assembly first. Not that order.
Also, I've looked through your whole thread and can't find the lift on your springs. Looks like 4"?
 
chevysmithz71 said:
I say clutch, bell housing, xmember, pedal assembly first. Not that order.
Also, I've looked through your whole thread and can't find the lift on your springs. Looks like 4"?
Click to expand...


They were from my friend, and I believe started off as 6" ez ride tuff country, that were beaten into submission under his rock crawling burb.
 
I would get some longer shackles maybe might be getting real close to the frame once the M & T are in it.

Spend it on stuff to get the motor in and working.
 
yeah, right now i have 1.25" away from the frame with those shackles. Ill have to keep an eye on that.

I am real confused on what to do with the engine crossmember. Most of the mounts are for either a 2wd or 4wd frame, since the engine mounts are different on both. The 2wd mounts are ontop of the stock 2wd cross member and the stock 4wd ones are behind it. The tn diesel converision kit is for either or... i guess I will have to do some investigating/tinkering tmrow! (just like to speak outloud with ideas)
 
What I had thought about mine is swapping the mounts and cross member for the 4wd ones.
 
from what i have been reading on dieselbomber/ 4btswap.com is that they do not work so well.. what my plan I think is to get diy4x poly motor mounts, then make my own crossmember/ engine bracket. Just ideas again tossing in my head cuz i cant sleep.
 
How do they not work so well? Another option I can't remember who makes it but is a new cross member with a pan hard bar mount. They are supposed to be back in buisness and taking orders but I don't see any advertisement.
 
fastenal (who sells lock washers) will tell you them selves that lock washers do nothing. once its flat its useless . the pinch nuts are a much better option. and a second pinch nut as a jam nut pretty much is a guarantee of not coming off. Probably overkill though:rolleyes:
 
good advice, I will pick some up for when I paint the frame and finalize it all.
 
Today was not a very successful day. Whoever installed the hitch simply welded it to the frame and rear shackle hangers... that added to the fun of getting it all off. Also found out the DIY4X shackle flip doesnt perfectly line up with the holes so more drilling was in favor, not his fault, just prob wasnt designed for this frame! Since friday morning I think I have put in about 7hours a day between driving around, working on the truck and having to do most of the work with my non-dominate hand, im getting tired quick!

So I have been doing a lil reading and I guess the only difference w the rear springs front hanger is the hieght it is bolted to the frame? And correct me if I'm wrong but the difference is 3inches? This means I should lower mine 3inches total? Thanks for any advise
 
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The last two days have been a bit annoying. I think working a full week on this has finally caught up to me. Yesterday having the frame welded to the spring hanger and the stupid hitch keeping the hanger stuck in the frame requiring me to cut it out completely really tested my patients and 1handedness.

Here are some more pictures! finally got the flip on, i now have to pop the bed off and take the gas tanks out and cut the front hanger off and lower it down.

I just jacked up the bed cuz i was alone, looks broke

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I had to cut slots in the hitch..which is just simply welded to the frame. I am going to be bracing to the frame with some extra steel.
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I am not a fan of this shackle angle, i am hoping when i lower down the front mount I can push it back just a hair and since it will be lower push it back a bit as well.

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SO this is what I have to lower, not sure how low i need to go though ,I am going to base it off of my blazer.
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Pinion is way up.
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THe morning plan is to take the gas tanks off, then cut off the rivits, lower the front mount and then bolt it back on. I will then wire wheel the whole frame.. rust bullet gallon is in the mail.
 
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Well good job with sticking with it! I know that there has been times when all i want to do is work on my truck, and then when i do it, i just get pissed and start cussing and end up having a ****ty time. Hard to keep the enthusiasm some times!
 
So last night my friends were over and we pulled the bed off so I could continue my vacation fun.

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Took the gas tanks off today, I found this sheet ontop of one of the gas tanks,, anyone know what this means?

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Nothing too exciting, just simply cut off the rivits again, then cleaned up the frame on both sides. I also took alll of the fuel line disaster the previous owner made, all of the wires to the back of the truck were also pulled out, none were in looms.


I measured my friends K30's brackets and lowered down the bracket so the center of the bolt to the top of the frame is the same measurement as his K30
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Now i know everyone might be real concerned with the fact its so low, dont worry this weekend I will be adding a ton of support and bracing.
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This seem to have made my pinion angle a lot better and level out the suspension.
 
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