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1986 GMC 3+3 dually build.- cummins swap.. Round 2, 2024 update.

Go under the transmission out put and run the exhaust on the drivers side of the truck.


thats why i like coming here... sometimes when you stare at something for so long you cant think anymore.. just went out to look at it again and realized.. yeah that can work perfect.. and its not a rock crawler so it could even stick below the frame a lil bit if i need it!:doah:
 
exhaust is done... phew that was a lil tricky at times! I used 4" all the way back, The exhaust is very tight on the AC box/firewall so i used some heat wrap to help keep things undercontrol.

It has one coupler at the downpipe, the rest is one piece!


 
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today was a good day, i ended up redoing my transmission xmember so the front dshaft could work, i also spaced it out properly, then cut the steel for the transmission hole, shaped that into place, pulled the water temp sensor and oil sensor on the motor so i can then replace it with chevy ones and use some simple guages. All the pics are lost on my busted phone now though.. oh well..

This is a lil modivation for me, i have to use my old old old phone from 2005, and i found pictures of a crew cab i was drooling over in 2006 at a local ski resort. I almost bought it.. thank god i couldnt get it home then!.. here is the rust bucket and lil proof that i've been wanting a crew cab for a long long time... Pictures were taken July 2006.

NOT me in the pics...

 
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so... i guess the only major thing left to do now is wire the motor, i wanna wire it before i put the front clip on. How tricky is this part going to be? My brother was suggesting to use relays for the heater grid on the intake.

To wire the motor I need power to...

Starter

Heater grid on intake

Fuel shut off selonoid

What else?

Any guidance on which wires to use for this? To keep everything clean and working well?
 
The only wires you have to have to run it is the fuel solenoid and starter. Wire the starter the same as factory. Fuel solenoid only needs a key on hot. You do need relays for the heater grid, but I couldn't tell you what size as mine are out of the Dodge. I actually just realized a few weeks ago that mine aren't hooked up. The control side is but the power side isn't hooked up to the battery. I went all last winter like this.
 
The only wires you have to have to run it is the fuel solenoid and starter. Wire the starter the same as factory. Fuel solenoid only needs a key on hot. You do need relays for the heater grid, but I couldn't tell you what size as mine are out of the Dodge. I actually just realized a few weeks ago that mine aren't hooked up. The control side is but the power side isn't hooked up to the battery. I went all last winter like this.

damn.. thats some good news i guess! My brother was suggesting i use ford starter relays because they are on the firewall. Which side is the control side? Mind giving a lil more detail on the heater grid set up?

You didnt worry about any of the water in fuel sensor wires on the pump did you?
 
also.. for the alternator, do you guys suggest just any one wire self regulating from napa?
 
Ford relays would probably work. I'll try to remember to snap a pic of mine tomorrow. Control side is the side that turns the relay on/off. Not the side that supplies power to whatever it's powering.

I don't have any of the other sensors on the motor hooked up.

For the alternator, I'm running the Dodge unit. Here is how to wire it if you use it. The Dodge's PCM originally regulates the alternator but use this wiring to utilize the older external style regulator. Part numbers are in that thread too. I think you'll have to make custom brackets if you want to run a GM 1-wire, but I'm not positive on that.
 
So, made a little progress today, i had a bunch of friends over in the morning so we put the front clip back on. No pics cuz my droid died. One issue i am now seeing, the huge radiator i am using is about 3/8ths or 1/4" away from the fan clutch and blades... do you guys think this will be an issue?

I spent the rest of the day playing with the wiring and trying to figure out what goes where and taking the dodge harness apart and seeing what parts to use... lil bit of a lazy day on this i suppose. Tomorrow i am going to hit it hard, and hope it fires up later this week!
 
Ideally you want the fan blades half way in and out of the shroud. 1/4-3/8" is pretty damn close. My truck has the Dodge radiator and I want to say an inch or better clearance. I forgot about pics today but I'll try to remember tomorrow and see what radiator/fan clearance I have.
 
1/4" is too close, you need more room to allow for body flex, and fan flex at high rpm. You need at least 3/4" or MORE. More being the key word.
 
i kinda figured they were too close, looks like im buying a new radiator. thanks for confirming that.
 
so the motor is all plumbed, its cranking over, fuel filter was filled with fuel and the motor is sucking up the fuel from there.. however it will not take any from the tank!?

I cannot get this thing to prime from the tank.. anyone wanna explain how the tank selectors work? When i got my truck there were 3 tanks in it and a mess of hacked up wiring and a switch in the dash someone installed, i have no idea if it worked, i only drove it a lil bit and took all that hacked up wiring out of it.

Also, on the selector switch it has RH and LH side.. i am assuming my driving is left correct? any help getting this motor to draw up some fuel would be great!
 
Awesome build dude, truck is gonna be awesome.
You could always stick the fuel lines in a bucket with diesel and get her to fire up that way very basic but make sure your return and suction lines are on correctly. If you do the bucket thing you can feel one line with suction and one will return. I also like to crack the injector lines just slightly to bleed air out a little faster and make sure you have good battery power to turn her over for a little while. Like I said you may already know that stuff just saying Ive made these mistakes before lol
 
Awesome build dude, truck is gonna be awesome.
You could always stick the fuel lines in a bucket with diesel and get her to fire up that way very basic but make sure your return and suction lines are on correctly. If you do the bucket thing you can feel one line with suction and one will return. I also like to crack the injector lines just slightly to bleed air out a little faster and make sure you have good battery power to turn her over for a little while. Like I said you may already know that stuff just saying Ive made these mistakes before lol

the bucket idea is a good plan to elimnate sending unit issues.. i like that, I just got heat exhaustion im pretty sure so im now inside.... sucks feel lil sick.
 

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