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1986 GMC 3+3 dually build.- cummins swap.. Round 2, 2024 update.

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I would do the bucket thing to get it running. Definitely crack the injector lines at first to bleed them out if it's not starting or barely starting. As for the selector valve, get the old style and run new wiring. I'm in the middle of this with mine. When I pulled the factory wiring, a quarter of it was missing insulation and corroded. I'm surprised it was working at all.

You need three wires run back to the valve. One for power, two for sending units.
Put two switches in the dash. One normal On/Off toggle and one On/On toggle.

On/Off is used for the power to the valve. It defaults to the pass tank when it's dead, with power it switches to the driver tank.
On/On - One side to one sending unit, other side to the other sending unit, middle post to the pink wire for the gauge in the dash.

Valve part no is AC Delco 467513. $70 from Amazon

I've been working on the house so I haven't got a pic of the grid heater solenoids yet, but I did notice some that looked very similar at Napa the other day in the marine section. I should be working on the truck tomorrow or Sunday and will snap a pic for you.
 
The issue i was having with the truck was it was suckin a lil air on the fuel line, also the lifter pump is not holding the fuel pressure. We presurized the tank with the air compressor and cranked it over. The motor ran great! However the truck will not idol and stay running unless i have the pedal pressed. Sooo the issue seems to be the lift pump. The lift pump is going to be swapped out in the am. My friend 12v had the same issue as mine and that rsolved it...soo here is to hoping!
 
stockk5 said:
so the motor is all plumbed, its cranking over, fuel filter was filled with fuel and the motor is sucking up the fuel from there..
Click to expand...

You have a fuel filter BEFORE the pump?? If so, get rid of it. It will cause much grief at very inconvenient times. If you are concerned about junk in the tank, put a new sock on the sending unit, but get rid of a pre-pump filter.
 
IT RUNS IT RUNS!!! IT RUNSSSS!!!!!!!! No better feeling than having a goal like this almost a year ago in the works and it FINALLY runs.. so excited.. starts up mulitple times no problem, new pump really helped it. Had it running for almost an hour checking it all over. Only minor fuel leak, works great..

List is now...

Brakes
Steering
Driveshafts..
shocks.
tires

Minor stuff..
Hood
Cowl
Fix window motor on driver
New dash (no cracks and its OEM)
Oil/TEMP/TAC hook up...
Headliner
Transmission tunnel cover plate.
 
Made more progress today, cowl got back on, wipers on, put the front brakes on, brakes are all bleed and ready and almost finished my transmission tunnel cover, just have to grab a couple longer bolts and it will be good to go.

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stockk5 said:
Little better video of it running...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9aPZClQxew&feature=plcp

Next question... how do i hook up my factory tach?? I have the wiring obviously still hooked up to it,, but do i attach it to the alternator?
Click to expand...

You may or may not have a pick up on the harmonic balancer. You would use this for tach hook-up. I don't know if it's just a simple wire hook up or what. Search over on the 4bt forums as I'm sure there's probably something over there.
 
so, i took a few days off,, went out to block island and enjoyed a mini vacation from this... so back at it trying to get my temp sensor and oil pressure working. There is not a lot of space in there for the oi pressure gauge from a chevy.. i had to use pipe fittings to make it fit.. but now im getting odd oil pressure readings.. only 20psi but when i throttled up a lil bit the pressure went up to 30something.. these are stock guages im hooking up in the chevy.

Could it be a combo of the oil pressure sender? the fittings? or the wrong oil pressure sending unit?

I also have another serious issuee with my transmission slip yoke.. its a nv4500 light duty from a 2wd 96 dodge 3500 that had a 360 in it, the output is a 30spline and diameter is 1.28.. i cant find a slip yoke anywhere and i need driveshafts made! any help?

The casted numbers on the transmission are 4160 then below it C-18157
 
here is the horrible brass fittings i had to use to make it fit.. one 90 is too tight in the block so i had to use the pipe to make it come out then away from the steering pump.. any advice?

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EDIT... so i am going to eliminate this.. and try onto of the oil filter, i hope that will work!
 
Last edited:
fixed this up! works but still getting only 25psi.. im going to have to put a mechanical on there to really check it out.

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