CK5
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1986 GMC 3+3 dually build.- cummins swap.. Round 2, 2024 update.

make sure you have a ground strap on the engine block

all grounds are taken care of now :) thanks for the reminder. I got a ton done today, new dashboard in, steering wheel back on, shifter actually locked into trans, then the boots back on, put the front bumper on, battery hold down, a fan shround in, hood on, ac ducts put back on, took off mirror painted under it and re-installed.

AND AM STILL SEARCHING FOR THE DAMN TRANS YOKE... no one has one.. really frustrating i could be driving this now..

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old dash
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new dash
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Exactly, put a known good mechanical guage on the oil filter. There are 2 npt ports on the top of the filter housing. The outter most.one is pre-filter the inner one is post filter. The turbo feed is in one of them. Guys feed the second turbo in twins from the other port there. There is an oil pressure regulator valve in the oil cooler assembly. It's behind the plug that is angled on a steep anglein the oil cooler assembly. Theres a spring behind it, if you go to pull it out, so it doesn't fly everywhere on you.

Test with a mechanical pre filter pressure. Before you touch the regulator valve.

Id put money that your sender is ****ed. Maybe not even ****ed but cheap electrical sending unit out of calibration. Just not accurate.
 
I've got my electrical sending unit in the pre-filter port and read up to 80psi. Once it warms up, at idle it reads 25-30 psi.
 
go on car-part.com, and find a driveshaft for a dodge truck. there ya go.
I used a galvanized 45 off the first spot you used for oil press, and it fit fine in my truck. mine runs between 60 and 80 though.
 
go on car-part.com, and find a driveshaft for a dodge truck. there ya go.
I used a galvanized 45 off the first spot you used for oil press, and it fit fine in my truck. mine runs between 60 and 80 though.


yeah. the odd thing is not many people show a 3500 with a gasser v8..thats the trouble with finding the yoke, i believe i found one though after calling many people.
 
Did a bit of work today... in the pouring rain.. decided.. f it, got my bathing suit on and went to work.. haha it was hot as hell so the rain was nice.

I put the safety latch on the hood, filled the tcase with fluid, dana 60, wired the licence plate light, got the steering all bleed out of air and cleaned the garage..

THe hood safety was kinda a bitch, not much room to work with! but i flipped it around, drilled 2 new holes and then cut a lot of it off.. works great though and nice piece of mind.



Not a lot of room


Pretty excited to see this...

 
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I've got my electrical sending unit in the pre-filter port and read up to 80psi. Once it warms up, at idle it reads 25-30 psi.

That all sounds very normal there.

StockK5. that port with your sender in your picture, its in the post filter port. the turbo gets pre filter oil. the turbo always gets its oil right off the pump. when I said the outside port, I didn't mean the outside of the housing. I mean in relation to the concentricity of the filter. the post filter port is directly over the top center of the filter. the pre filter port is over the outter edge of the filter. thats how oil flows through filters, outside to inside.

Can I ask what filter and oil you're using?
 
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That all sounds very normal there.

StockK5. that port with your sender in your picture, its in the post filter port. the turbo gets pre filter oil. the turbo always gets its oil right off the pump. when I said the outside port, I didn't mean the outside of the housing. I mean in relation to the concentricity of the filter. the post filter port is directly over the top center of the filter. the pre filter port is over the outter edge of the filter. thats how oil flows through filters, outside to inside.

Can I ask what filter and oil you're using?

ahh ok.. I am using a napa gold filter and rotella 15 40 oil.
 
So while i button up other things such as driveshafts and steering, lil paint, I have begun thinking about tires... this is going to take a good amount of time to save up for.

The axles have 4:10gearing.. soo with my nv4500 and 205 i would like to keep my rpms around 2g at 70mph on the highway.

I am having a lot of conflicting thoughts on tires for my 16inch rims that arent super wide, as well as the correct tow rating. According to grim jeeper website gear calculator

37" tires will keep me at 1907rpms at 70..
35" tires will keep me at 2016rpms at 70..
33" tires will keep me at 2138rpms at 70..

What would you guys recommend?
I am not opposed to having some type of MT tire or AT.. whichever will work best!

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I think my 37's are perfect with 4.10 gears. The truck cruises well on the highway and still handles a loaded trailer well too. I also think you should go towards a larger tire because of the amount your truck is lifted. No matter what tire you choose, you will more than likely need a set of wheel spacers between the duals to keep the tires from touching
 
As mean as they look, boggers suck on the road.

I'll have 37s on my dually in about 2 weeks. It's a great size dualled up, 37/38".
 
As mean as they look, boggers suck on the road.

I'll have 37s on my dually in about 2 weeks. It's a great size dualled up, 37/38".

very true.. i would like to be more road friendly than.. boggers.. other than that im ok haha. Where you guys get your spacers? ebay?
 
Can't answer that for spacers. I've got big rims. No spacers required. Just a lug adapter.

Also got 4.30 gears, with 37s. It works nice.
 
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I agree with the 37's and 4.10's.

I like the ideas of 37s myself. I just stopped by my driveshaft shop..they say i should move my tcase back a bit. Right now yoke to yoke my driveshaft from the output of the tcase to rear would need to be 72inches. What kinda driveshafts do you have on your set up? Do they have a carrier bearing or is it a one piece shaft? Right now its 16inches from tailshaft of tranny to nut on my tcase input as well. Mind shooting over some dimensions?
 

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