CK5
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Interesting you say that. I just did the front brakes and mine didn’t have the clips on when I pulled it off but the pads came with them.
brass punch and that 4lb anti-girly hammer . bang the studs out . stand rotor / hub up and hold hub only and WACK the rotor and should pop off . swap with new rotor and bang the studs back in . then when all done re-check the lug nuts a few times in 100 miles max .
if you have a extra inner spindle nut for a 1/2 or 3/4 ton the pin is the same and can be swapped out . otherwise new nut with pin . and when lining up the washer with holes there off set . so if close flip the washer and recheck . note the key way tab to hole alignment . its off set .
use real good wheel bearing grease and new quality seals . not cheepy no name units .
new hardware kit for the calipers to knuckle mount and inner pad anti-rattle spring .
not to much grease on the moving parts of the hubs .
if you have a extra inner spindle nut for a 1/2 or 3/4 ton the pin is the same and can be swapped out . otherwise new nut with pin . and when lining up the washer with holes there off set . so if close flip the washer and recheck . note the key way tab to hole alignment . its off set .
use real good wheel bearing grease and new quality seals . not cheepy no name units .
new hardware kit for the calipers to knuckle mount and inner pad anti-rattle spring .
not to much grease on the moving parts of the hubs .
You could do that with just a chunk of 2x4 but you'll probably break that all apart before you finish. As @sweetk30 mentioned, a punch would be better.
Mine didn't have them either and the new pads didn't come with them. I never knew about them. I took the truck in to have the ARB installed in the D60, and he was the one that pointed it out to me. So I ordered a bunch from RockAuto.
Hey guys, I am in a little bit of a predicament. I went to torque down all of my king pin bolts last night. I found 70-90 ft. lbs. on an old CK5 thread. Anyhow, on the passenger side lower king pin, two of the four bolts will not go to spec. I must have damaged the threads inside the knuckle. They get snug and then if you tighten them further they back themselves out. Almost a popping motion. At first, I thought it was something to do with the lock washer. So, I tried getting them torqued down without the washer. Neither of them go.
I must have messed up the threads with my impact gun - either forcing something to come out or forcing something down that shouldn't have been. Gotta be more careful with that thing.
Anyhow, does anybody have a nifty tip or am I buying myself a new passenger-side knuckle?
I must have messed up the threads with my impact gun - either forcing something to come out or forcing something down that shouldn't have been. Gotta be more careful with that thing.
Anyhow, does anybody have a nifty tip or am I buying myself a new passenger-side knuckle?
What size are these bolts, I thought they were 3/8 16tpi. 70 to 90 ft pds would be way to much, for that size.
You will need to inspect those 2 bolts, and the threaded hole, chances are the threads in the knuckle gave out.
I'm not a front d60 guy, but you may be able to tap them out to a bigger size. 7/16 20 tpi, is a full 16th bigger might be to big. 10mm by 1.25 is just a little larger than 3/8ths. But you need to remember those are different if you ever took it apart again
You will need to inspect those 2 bolts, and the threaded hole, chances are the threads in the knuckle gave out.
I'm not a front d60 guy, but you may be able to tap them out to a bigger size. 7/16 20 tpi, is a full 16th bigger might be to big. 10mm by 1.25 is just a little larger than 3/8ths. But you need to remember those are different if you ever took it apart again
@Wes Harden I believe that the bolts I have been using are 1/2"-20tpi. I bought some fresh bolts from Home Depot because at first I thought that the threads were jacked up on the bolts themselves.
Definitely seems to be the knuckle. I have never tapped threads but I will start to look into it.
Definitely seems to be the knuckle. I have never tapped threads but I will start to look into it.
It does sound like the threads in the knuckle are stripped. You could go a bolt size up and tap new threads.
You could also post up in the wanted section for the knuckle you need. I upgraded mine and had a stock set to sell. There are others that might have a spare set around for the same reason.
You could also post up in the wanted section for the knuckle you need. I upgraded mine and had a stock set to sell. There are others that might have a spare set around for the same reason.
1/2" 70 to 90ft pds is exceptable. Shows you how well I know d60 front.
Hope you get it going. Try running the correct size tap through those two and then thread the bolts in by hand most of the way, if you can wobble the bolt when it @ 3/4 in there is probably not enough thread material to hold.
There is the heli coil option, I'm not sure how well that will work in this situation. Depends on material thickness of the knuckle.
Hope you get it going. Try running the correct size tap through those two and then thread the bolts in by hand most of the way, if you can wobble the bolt when it @ 3/4 in there is probably not enough thread material to hold.
There is the heli coil option, I'm not sure how well that will work in this situation. Depends on material thickness of the knuckle.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DANA-60-KI...=2545856230456c70f7a9041d484db1ec06f609a6fe46
I do not know anything about this knuckle, just remembered seeing it on eBay.
I do not know anything about this knuckle, just remembered seeing it on eBay.
Being cheap as I am, I will try to save my existing knuckle first and then if that doesn't work I'm gonna try and buy a replacement.
Might try and just buy this HF tap and die set. It has 1/2"-20 but nothing larger:
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-...on-steel-sae-tap-and-die-set-40-pc-62831.html
If "refreshing" the threads doesn't work then I'll find a 9/16"-20 tap and give that a try. Something like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Drill-A...Plug-Hand-Tap-1-Piece-DWTST9-16-20P/305700794
I've never tapped before, so if anyone has tips send them my way. I'll watch a few YouTube videos and give it the ol best-I-can try.
Might try and just buy this HF tap and die set. It has 1/2"-20 but nothing larger:
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-...on-steel-sae-tap-and-die-set-40-pc-62831.html
If "refreshing" the threads doesn't work then I'll find a 9/16"-20 tap and give that a try. Something like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Drill-A...Plug-Hand-Tap-1-Piece-DWTST9-16-20P/305700794
I've never tapped before, so if anyone has tips send them my way. I'll watch a few YouTube videos and give it the ol best-I-can try.
Oops
There should be an associated drill bit size for the tap; make sure you have that. The hard part about tapping threads is to make sure you keep the tap as straight as possible. You want to take about 1/4 to 1/2 turn bite, and then back the tap up about the same. Just keep doing that. You basically want to cut threads and them back out to clean them up. It's one of those slow and steady things.
Do those holes go all the way thru, or do they bottom out? There is a different tap for blind holes that don't thread all the way thru; called bottoming taps.
Do those holes go all the way thru, or do they bottom out? There is a different tap for blind holes that don't thread all the way thru; called bottoming taps.
I haven't use HF recently but in the past I learned that HF drill bits and taps weren't good quality. Buy the tap you need. I understand a good tap and die is expensive, and get yourself a set of tap sockets.
https://www.tooldiscounter.com/product/lisle-socket-set-tap-lis70500
You don't need to re-drill the hole if you are just chasing the threads with the same tap as current threads.
You would need to drill for creating new threads in a larger hole or any new.
Mr5 is correct there are different taps for different jobs. starting tap is for creating new threads in a new hole, A bottoming tap will cut threads to the bottom of a blind hole. This tap is also good for chasing threads to clean or correct a burr, but not good for starting new threads.
Most tap and die kits come with starting taps, in most instances you can use to clean threads.
When cutting new threads use the correct size drill, normally stamped on tap. Start the tap straight with hole, be careful not lean it while turning.
Cutting fluid lots of it. After the tap makes it in the hole 2-3 whole turns reverse the tap 1/4 to 1/2 turn, this breaks the curly ques and makes it easier to continue, do this every 1/2 to 3/4 turn as you continue. you may want to remove the tap and clean the flutes several times.
Be very careful if a tap feels like it doesn't want to turn don't force it, stop and investigate. Taps are very hard, so much so they are more brittle and will snap. you can't drill and extract a broken tap.
Also for cleaning threads on stuff you take apart and assemble a thread chaser kit is nice. not really meant to cut threads and not as hard as a tap, so can be removed much easier.
https://www.tooldiscounter.com/prod...MIh_L6nIH46QIVISCtBh0dpQsLEAQYAiABEgLZ5vD_BwE
https://www.tooldiscounter.com/product/lisle-socket-set-tap-lis70500
You don't need to re-drill the hole if you are just chasing the threads with the same tap as current threads.
You would need to drill for creating new threads in a larger hole or any new.
Mr5 is correct there are different taps for different jobs. starting tap is for creating new threads in a new hole, A bottoming tap will cut threads to the bottom of a blind hole. This tap is also good for chasing threads to clean or correct a burr, but not good for starting new threads.
Most tap and die kits come with starting taps, in most instances you can use to clean threads.
When cutting new threads use the correct size drill, normally stamped on tap. Start the tap straight with hole, be careful not lean it while turning.
Cutting fluid lots of it. After the tap makes it in the hole 2-3 whole turns reverse the tap 1/4 to 1/2 turn, this breaks the curly ques and makes it easier to continue, do this every 1/2 to 3/4 turn as you continue. you may want to remove the tap and clean the flutes several times.
Be very careful if a tap feels like it doesn't want to turn don't force it, stop and investigate. Taps are very hard, so much so they are more brittle and will snap. you can't drill and extract a broken tap.
Also for cleaning threads on stuff you take apart and assemble a thread chaser kit is nice. not really meant to cut threads and not as hard as a tap, so can be removed much easier.
https://www.tooldiscounter.com/prod...MIh_L6nIH46QIVISCtBh0dpQsLEAQYAiABEgLZ5vD_BwE
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go to the next size in metric to the bolt holes dont need to be opened up to much .
and if you need a knuckle let me know . i have 3-4 sets of spares from axles i have stripped or upgraded .
and if you need a knuckle let me know . i have 3-4 sets of spares from axles i have stripped or upgraded .
Hey guys, sorry I haven't checked-in in a while. Work has been nuts for me lately.
I bought this stuff off Amazon tonight:
Thanks for everyone's help.
I bought this stuff off Amazon tonight:
- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GXFFLSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DL7T9LU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00065VEP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for everyone's help.
I am having Amazon app issues, couldn't see all the goodies you ordered.
I hope refresh is all you need.
13 mm and 1/2 are basically the same diameter. You might want to consider 9/16th or 14 mm.
Course and fine thread of same size are also different. Something to keep in mind.
I hope refresh is all you need.
13 mm and 1/2 are basically the same diameter. You might want to consider 9/16th or 14 mm.
Course and fine thread of same size are also different. Something to keep in mind.
I am out working on the truck right now. The tap seemed to help, but it didn't do enough. I can't get two bolts on the bottom of the passenger knuckle to spec. One bolt on top is also not cooperating.
The bolt on top and one of the bolts on bottom are snugged. The other bolt on bottom is finger tight. All are of course coated in red loctite.
I am really tempted to just run it like this. Sick of this knuckle and just want this thing back on the road.
I know I should jump to the next tap size up, I'm just getting really frustrated and impatient with this job.
The bolt on top and one of the bolts on bottom are snugged. The other bolt on bottom is finger tight. All are of course coated in red loctite.
I am really tempted to just run it like this. Sick of this knuckle and just want this thing back on the road.
I know I should jump to the next tap size up, I'm just getting really frustrated and impatient with this job.
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