CK5
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There I go assuming again. I thought this truck was running the stock stuff. As in the quadrajet. I’ve dabbled a little in the repackaged afb carb from edelbrock but not much. I’m pretty sure they don’t leak like the q-jets do.
I guess it could be a edelbrock q-jet too since they did sell them for a while.
Edit- Bent answered.
I guess it could be a edelbrock q-jet too since they did sell them for a while.
Edit- Bent answered.
I have this carb:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1825
I'm really showing my ignorance here... but I didn't know exactly what "Quadrajet" was (model of carb? brand of carb? or neither i.e. it describes the structure of the carb?)... I looked it up on Wikipedia and learned a few things.
Since mine is from Edelbrock as opposed to Rochester, and since it is an aluminum four-barrel carb, I suppose it qualifies as AFB! Interesting to hear that they tend to have smaller bowls.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1825
I'm really showing my ignorance here... but I didn't know exactly what "Quadrajet" was (model of carb? brand of carb? or neither i.e. it describes the structure of the carb?)... I looked it up on Wikipedia and learned a few things.
Since mine is from Edelbrock as opposed to Rochester, and since it is an aluminum four-barrel carb, I suppose it qualifies as AFB! Interesting to hear that they tend to have smaller bowls.
The Rochester would have been factory equipment for your truck. They are a love or hate type thing. I think they are the best carb to run off road over Holley or the edelbrock.
But they all can be made to work.
This is a pretty common problem with carbs. Interesting reading here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/carb-fuel-drain-back-problem.490971/
Have you tried just cranking it a little longer?
Seems like a lot of horsing around.
Martin
Seems like a lot of horsing around.
Martin
Martin I would imagine that you will roll your eyes in annoyance or chuckle at this response... but I can't get more than 3-5 long cranks out of the battery before it dies out on me. There are so many small issues with this truck that I should have corrected by now, lol...
I don't know if the battery is not rated high enough or if there is a slow draw on it or whatever. But when I first trying to do longer cranks without priming the carb first the battery would quit on me and I'd have to jump it.
I promise that I'll get around to working on this thing one of these days!!! Just have to fix my girlfriend's Jeep first. Her catalytic converter was stolen the night of Thanksgiving. I guess that shows how slowly I move on this stuff. Ugh.
Electric fuel pump would take care of the priming issue easily.
Dude I can totally help once I get up there. Right now I’m not sure when that will be with the house back on the market.
But once I am it shouldn’t take more than a day to figure out what these little issues are.
In the meantime if you think there is a draw on the battery charge it up and then disconnect one of the cables. This way the draw won’t kill the battery while it sits. Then when you do want to drive it just hook the cable up and prime the carb. Should crank over better on a fully charged battery. When you park it pull the cable again.
On a truck like that there isn’t much that could be staying on to draw the battery down. Just takes a process to find it.
But once I am it shouldn’t take more than a day to figure out what these little issues are.
In the meantime if you think there is a draw on the battery charge it up and then disconnect one of the cables. This way the draw won’t kill the battery while it sits. Then when you do want to drive it just hook the cable up and prime the carb. Should crank over better on a fully charged battery. When you park it pull the cable again.
On a truck like that there isn’t much that could be staying on to draw the battery down. Just takes a process to find it.
My '72 C10 with an Edelbrock carb lets the fuel evaporate quickly. Even though it sits inside all of the time, with ethanol free. Like Wes said, small fuel bowls , open element air cleaner doesn't slow the air down either while sitting.
When @ZooMad75 says disconnect a cable he means the negitve cable.
Battery cables, jumper cables, booster box, always neg off first and on last.
This helps eliminate the chance of shorting your tool/cables to gound.
I have a Edelbrock 1402 on the f250 4x4 I jetted it on the rich side, help fe motors not burn valves.
Added the spring loaded needle and seats for 4x4 applications.
They are easy to work with.
Edelbrock bought the rights to manufacturer and market the Carter AFB, I have compared an original to a new Edelbrock. I imagine there are minor differences.
Battery cables, jumper cables, booster box, always neg off first and on last.
This helps eliminate the chance of shorting your tool/cables to gound.
I have a Edelbrock 1402 on the f250 4x4 I jetted it on the rich side, help fe motors not burn valves.
Added the spring loaded needle and seats for 4x4 applications.
They are easy to work with.
Edelbrock bought the rights to manufacturer and market the Carter AFB, I have compared an original to a new Edelbrock. I imagine there are minor differences.
You're the man Rob, I welcome you with open arms whenever you're available. Cold beers in the fridge with your name on 'em.
That will be your problem, charge the battery fix the draw if there is one and I’m betting it will start fine.
Carbed trucks need to crank a bit before they light up especially if they sat a bit. The fuel pump needs to get the fuel to the carb.
Carbed trucks need to crank a bit before they light up especially if they sat a bit. The fuel pump needs to get the fuel to the carb.
@shima you remember my buddy Nick with the K30 "Sledgehammer" that I store while he's overseas. We put a battery disconnect switch in his truck so the battery doesn't run down too much while it sits. I just start it up once a quarter and drive it around the neighborhood a little.
The ideal scenario would be to get a battery maintainer for it. I also feel like the AGM batteries do a better job holding a charge in storage, but that could be purely anecdotal.
The ideal scenario would be to get a battery maintainer for it. I also feel like the AGM batteries do a better job holding a charge in storage, but that could be purely anecdotal.
Yes sir I do, and that makes sense. I bought a dual motorcycle/car battery charger a while ago for a project bike I have in my garage. I think it could maintain the K30 battery pretty easily if needed. Maybe next time I go to start it up cold I'll just leave the charger on it and see how long it takes to get fired up without any priming.
I got out and did a little work on the K30 today with a friend.
First, we rerouted my choke wire. It is a manual choke and for some reason it would not rebound well. When sitting inside the truck, I could pull the choke lever out to close the plates at the carb. When I pushed the choke lever back in to open those plates back up, it wouldn't move them at all. The wire would just "flex" if that makes any sense... the choke lever would just bounce back into the fully-pulled-out position after I tried pushing it inward.
Here's a photo of how the choke wire is routed now (silver housing coming out of firewall driver's side):
Before we rerouted it, the housing went out straight and then curved around the front of my brake master cylinder. It then cut back toward the firewall, went behind the distributor, and came back toward the carb. It was like a giant "S" shape. We were thinking those big bends in the housing may have been tripping up the cable. This new route seems to work well. I also squirted a little bicycle chain lube down the housing. It works well now, so we'll see how long that lasts.
Next I looked to see whether my accelerator pump is working. It definitely is, which is great news. I realized after not long that my gas pedal / throttle linkage is just super loose... there is a ton of play in there. The bottom of my gas pedal actually bottoms out on my floor before it can get to the portion of the stroke that would activate the accelerator pump. In order to get the accelerator pump to release gas, I think I have to push my toes down to make it slam flat against the floor.
Here's a video I recorded of it, sorry for how crappy my camerawork is:
View attachment PXL_20220305_234456419.mp4
I am wondering how to tighten things up on this system. When I pull all of the slack out of the cable under the hood, the eyelet of the throttle linkage extends far past where it is supposed to attach to the carb:
Would I tighten things up from the engine bay side or from the pedal side within the cab? I was thinking that an easy way to tighten things up could be to do it from the pedal within the cab. In the video, you can kind of see that the arm bounces in-between two "stops" on the cable. I could perhaps position the pedal arm behind the "stop" that is closest to the firewall (instead of between the two)?
If it's better to tighten things up from under the hood, does anyone know if the "sheath" that my fingers are touching in the above photo can slide down? I tried but it wouldn't budge.
EDIT: Some bonus good news... I went to go look at my steering box bolts to make sure they were tight and that the frame wasn't cracked... somebody already installed an ORD steering box brace in there! Score!
First, we rerouted my choke wire. It is a manual choke and for some reason it would not rebound well. When sitting inside the truck, I could pull the choke lever out to close the plates at the carb. When I pushed the choke lever back in to open those plates back up, it wouldn't move them at all. The wire would just "flex" if that makes any sense... the choke lever would just bounce back into the fully-pulled-out position after I tried pushing it inward.
Here's a photo of how the choke wire is routed now (silver housing coming out of firewall driver's side):
Before we rerouted it, the housing went out straight and then curved around the front of my brake master cylinder. It then cut back toward the firewall, went behind the distributor, and came back toward the carb. It was like a giant "S" shape. We were thinking those big bends in the housing may have been tripping up the cable. This new route seems to work well. I also squirted a little bicycle chain lube down the housing. It works well now, so we'll see how long that lasts.
Next I looked to see whether my accelerator pump is working. It definitely is, which is great news. I realized after not long that my gas pedal / throttle linkage is just super loose... there is a ton of play in there. The bottom of my gas pedal actually bottoms out on my floor before it can get to the portion of the stroke that would activate the accelerator pump. In order to get the accelerator pump to release gas, I think I have to push my toes down to make it slam flat against the floor.
Here's a video I recorded of it, sorry for how crappy my camerawork is:
View attachment PXL_20220305_234456419.mp4
I am wondering how to tighten things up on this system. When I pull all of the slack out of the cable under the hood, the eyelet of the throttle linkage extends far past where it is supposed to attach to the carb:
Would I tighten things up from the engine bay side or from the pedal side within the cab? I was thinking that an easy way to tighten things up could be to do it from the pedal within the cab. In the video, you can kind of see that the arm bounces in-between two "stops" on the cable. I could perhaps position the pedal arm behind the "stop" that is closest to the firewall (instead of between the two)?
If it's better to tighten things up from under the hood, does anyone know if the "sheath" that my fingers are touching in the above photo can slide down? I tried but it wouldn't budge.
EDIT: Some bonus good news... I went to go look at my steering box bolts to make sure they were tight and that the frame wasn't cracked... somebody already installed an ORD steering box brace in there! Score!
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Fire alert! Metal housing on choke cable right??
Those 2 studs right by the cable on firewall are hotter then hell.
Those 2 studs right by the cable on firewall are hotter then hell.
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