CK5
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1987 V20 Suburban 350TBI/SM465

I haven’t had any issues since except one time it took a little longer to start and sputtered to life. It seems to be happening after driving it for 15+ minutes and then turning it off and starting it again with in an hour. When cold, it starts up perfect. To me that sounds like it’s flooding after it shuts off. I’ve also noticed the exhaust smells like gas a bit like it’s running rich. On top of that, I feel like my mileage has dropped significantly. I don’t drive much but a 30-45 minute drive drops 1/8th a tank at least. It wasn’t doing that when I first picked it up. I thought maybe the tires were the cause of that but they are only about 2” bigger.

How can I confirm this theory? Would it be the fuel pump? Injectors? Bad ignition? ECM? Does the ECM output enough data to be useful if I could find something to read the data?
 
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Yesterday I had no issues and ran all over town for hours. I did however hear something while driving home that sounded like a liquid spewing for 1-2 seconds under the hood. I didn't smell anything and nothing changed in the way it was driving. This morning, I saw this fresh oil puddle and investigated. Best I can tell, its oil that sprayed out from the AC compressor. You can see the path it would have blown out on the bottom half of the compressor and can see that it sprayed all over the wheel well and frame and ran down the power steering pump directly below the compressor and ran down the belt to the lowest point. Oil was very clean and light amber color as seen where I smeared it on my hood.

Does that seem like a reasonable assessment of that leak?

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Is the A/C cold ? I was going to say P/s pump, but your description of fluid sound leads me to think the a/c over pressured and popped the front seal or the relief valve.
Oil would have dripped down on pump looking like p/s pump leak

is there a stain on the hood over a/c compressor
 
The AC was cold after I heard the noise yesterday. I didn't run it today for more an a minute or two but it kicked on fine, no weird noises and was cool.

Here are some more pictures. The a/c looks mostly dry but the p/s pump is damp. I sprayed both off with a degreaser this morning and drove it 20 miles so these are after. I couldn't find any oil on the a/c but you can see the p/s and the high pressure line.

As for stains, you can see it on the hood, the inner fender, and the frame. The spray pattern makes sense as the belt between the a/c and p/s was covered. But like I said, the a/c is dry as far as I can tell but you can see the p/s here and its dripping off of that right now. I checked the level and it was pretty low so I topped it off. We'll see if it goes down. Seems like it could go either way though so I'm open to ideas or things to try


p/s behind the pulley

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line to the steering box
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yes it does appear to be p/s pump. either the shaft seal or reservoir o ring. Pressure hose looks good. one way to test is run engine, hood up turn steering to lock and look for spray.
Be very cautious, hydraulic fluid can pierce your skin and poison you. Stay back when you do this and wear eye protection, pref a face shield
 
yes it does appear to be p/s pump. either the shaft seal or reservoir o ring. Pressure hose looks good. one way to test is run engine, hood up turn steering to lock and look for spray.
Be very cautious, hydraulic fluid can pierce your skin and poison you. Stay back when you do this and wear eye protection, pref a face shield
Thats exactly what I did after I topped it off. No spray or unexpected noises or vibrations at all that I could see from the cab. Guess I'll just replace the whole unit.
 
new unit won't come with pulley. Needs a stout puller and installer to change the pulley. You'll want to rent a kit. Inspect the threads of pullers/installer before you rent. They get abused by the ham handed and uneducated.
 
new unit won't come with pulley. Needs a stout puller and installer to change the pulley. You'll want to rent a kit. Inspect the threads of pullers/installer before you rent. They get abused by the ham handed and uneducated.
Would it be worth the $22 for a new pulley or does that not matter?
 
I consider the puller to be a must have in my toolbox. Be warned, the cheap kits are not great. I am on my 2nd. They are ok enough and I can't justify the cost of a really good one. A new pulley still needs the installer tool so not worth it unless its damaged.
 
Cool, I'll skip the pulley. The nearest parts place has the puller/installer so I should be good there unless its f'd up. After this, I'll have to see about buying one. Pulled the pump off earlier, not too bad of a job. Hopefully have it all buttoned up this evening.

As always, I appreciate the guidance!
 
Can the pump be rotated? Bracket doesn’t fit because it’s clocked a little different

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not really is the can has holes in the back that line up with the hose fitting and 1 bolt. Whatever you do don't bend the can, it will leak if it gets bent.
 
My guess is not correct for your truck. the re builders get lazy and label 1 part for as many makes models and years as they can squeeze in.

Me I would switch the cans. not hard just have to pay attention to o rings
 
can you post up a close up of shaft seal at what would be the bottom when on engine. I can't tell from photo which was leaking shaft or reservoir
 
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