They're talking about the bushing, not the seal, I believe.
Martin
Martin
CK5
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1989 Diesel Jimmy. What do we have here hmmmm
- Thread starter blazinzuk
- Start date
Irish1941
1/2 ton status
No sweat on part #. Glad to help.Thanks for the part number Irish
Is there a problem with these going out on lifted trucks?
I know a couple guys who have never got them to seal properly
Thanks Scott when I take it apart I will look at it.
Right now my exhaust is getting lubed very very good.
Enough to make me think I was blowing up something driving the other day
Same number for a pile of GM applications.
And run that number through eBay and Amazon.
Cheapest I saw 6-8 months ago was like $7 beans and free shipping.
I got 4" on this truck with no problems. I'll shoot a pic tomorrow of the t-case after 3.5k on new bushing and seal. Dry as can be.
Really think grease on the outside lip of the seal helps. Plus I put a little RVT on the seal to t-case surface. I've had 241s leak past the seal where steel seal meets the aluminum housing.
People seem to beat the sh*t out of the tail housing changing the seal.
So wiper switch.
I think this may suck. I have a new stalk ( where the wiper controls are at) and realize while putting it in tonight I think my problem is the wiper switch that the stalk goes into. There are no detents in it at all. I hope the wiring from 86 to 89 is the same, those dang things are 180 bucks from LMC
When you put the stalk into the switch you should have all your detents correct? I mean it should click into delay and then into low and then into high?
Is that right or am I missing something here
I think this may suck. I have a new stalk ( where the wiper controls are at) and realize while putting it in tonight I think my problem is the wiper switch that the stalk goes into. There are no detents in it at all. I hope the wiring from 86 to 89 is the same, those dang things are 180 bucks from LMC
When you put the stalk into the switch you should have all your detents correct? I mean it should click into delay and then into low and then into high?
Is that right or am I missing something here
BTW I ended up going to Napa to see what they had for the bushing and seal kit. I asked for it they gave it to me and it is the correct bushing and seal kit for the 241.
I didn't want to pay 13 bucks shipping, and it was 9 bucks from Napa with the bushing and seal.
Just so you guys know.
I didn't want to pay 13 bucks shipping, and it was 9 bucks from Napa with the bushing and seal.
Just so you guys know.
lectric80
3/4 ton status
Yes the detents are in the switch itself and should be felt once the stalk is in place.
hey Eric...I reread this thread and am curious. Did you stick with the factory tv cable hook up or go with the ez setup?
I'll be swapping out the th400 in mine as soon as I get hold of a vss housing for the np241...
I'll be swapping out the th400 in mine as soon as I get hold of a vss housing for the np241...
Ray I used the factory stuff. It was there and easy.
Yes, yes they are, why I did not know this I do not know. Does anyone have a spare column they could pull the switch out of and send me?
I should probably just take Horton apart and pull the switch out of him. Not like I am going to need windshield wipers.
Anyway that little switch is well over a 100 bucks most places so the Jimmy has been sitting for a week or so while I decide what to do.
I have some. PM me your address and a picture of the switch you want.
Martin
Martin
Dang I need to check my build thread more often I suppose.
You have a pm sir.
You have a pm sir.
6.2 question time.
At what RPM would the best fuel mileage be achieved. I realize there are more factors than just rpm that affect this.
I ask because I am trying to decide on what axles and or gears to use right now.
Peak torque on a 6.2 is around 2k. I assume I should shoot for a 2k rpm at my set cruising speed, which is 75.
So making this assumption and the fact I want to run a 37, 2k rpm at cruise speed would be 4.10s and 37s.
My current setup spins me at over 2300 rpms. I feel this is to high. Can't really tell why it just seems like the motor is happier at the lower rpms.
I have a turbo motor for it so I am not worried about the power with the higher gears than I currently have.
What say you guys. I intend for this to be a very good highway cruiser ready to go a couple hundred miles to a thousand miles at the drop of a hat. Gearing RPM tires and all of that is pretty important to a big truck with a drag coefficient of 11 that is lifted and is intended to get decent mileage on the highway
At what RPM would the best fuel mileage be achieved. I realize there are more factors than just rpm that affect this.
I ask because I am trying to decide on what axles and or gears to use right now.
Peak torque on a 6.2 is around 2k. I assume I should shoot for a 2k rpm at my set cruising speed, which is 75.
So making this assumption and the fact I want to run a 37, 2k rpm at cruise speed would be 4.10s and 37s.
My current setup spins me at over 2300 rpms. I feel this is to high. Can't really tell why it just seems like the motor is happier at the lower rpms.
I have a turbo motor for it so I am not worried about the power with the higher gears than I currently have.
What say you guys. I intend for this to be a very good highway cruiser ready to go a couple hundred miles to a thousand miles at the drop of a hat. Gearing RPM tires and all of that is pretty important to a big truck with a drag coefficient of 11 that is lifted and is intended to get decent mileage on the highway
From the GM diesel pages they suggest 1600-1800 for best mpg. Honestly from my tests with my truck it will get an easy 18mpg at 55, drop to 16 at 65, and much less at higher mph. I am pretty sure it is more from the rpm than the speed. With a diesel they like to lug. You aren't going to get it to ping so let it lug. Honestly mine will for the most part roll along in 4th with at idle pulling 15 and seriously go up some good hells only loosing a few mph.
I got it. I'll make sure I have I have the correct one when I get the picture.
Martin
Martin
I got the switch buddy I had pulled a couple of others and this thing needs to be reliable and the other switches were old enough they had some issues too.
Anyhoo got the new switch in and still having stupid wiring problems.
Start really looking around and realize the dark green wire and white wire on the turn signal switch harness are no longer connected. Were they ever, I would imagine they were but not sure. So now off to pull the insturment cluster so I can see the wires better find said wires and reconnect them to the turn signal switch.
OH what a joy
lectric80
3/4 ton status
That is the reason I plan to replace the entire harness in Krusty with a new EZ wiring harness, no more PO wiring nightmares.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Luck was not on my side today. There are 2 wires that are disconnected from the female side of the turn signal switch circuit.
I do not know and cannot figure out how to get the connecters out of the plastic so I can reattach them. One of them appears to be messed up enough that if it was making contact it was barely.
I have had brake light and turn signal issues since day one on this truck and this appears to be the problem.
Pics of the problem
I am simply not good enough with a solder gun to solder it all back together and even then I don't think the last plug is making contact inside the plug when its all together. So that won't help that issue.
So anyone know where I can buy this connector I have no problem redoing the whole thing.
Or any suggestions on getting the pins out so I can just recrimp and solder them on the original pins?
Eric , sometimes you can release the pins using a long dental pic and some persuading
Yah I have been trying but no luck. Hence why I have stopped for the night I am going to break something if I keep working
I can check to see if we have them at work in the morning if you want me too.
Please do Keith call me if you can
