CK5
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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning

First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
I got the kit in the mail yesterday and got the new gaskets installed. Both injectors spraying fuel now, and it idles smooth (no vibrations) but it idles FAST. Like damn I'd guess 1500+ RPM. Was just dumping white smoke out of my tail pipe too... filled up my garage with smoke.

Here's a video, sorry for the stupid zoom:
View attachment PXL_20210319_222924086.mp4

I want to check the timing, but they say you should do that with it warmed up. Don't know if I want to run it too long like this.

I don't think I have any vacuum leaks at this time but I should probably check again using the throttle cleaner trick.
 
Also, my IAC is new. There's no difference when I disconnect it vs. having it connected. Makes me think it is stuck open, allowing a whole ton of air to come through.
 
This is unrelated to everything you just posted but have you changed your oil since it flooded out really bad awhile back?
 
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I got the kit in the mail yesterday and got the new gaskets installed. Both injectors spraying fuel now, and it idles smooth (no vibrations) but it idles FAST. Like damn I'd guess 1500+ RPM. Was just dumping white smoke out of my tail pipe too... filled up my garage with smoke.

Here's a video, sorry for the stupid zoom:
View attachment 372120

I want to check the timing, but they say you should do that with it warmed up. Don't know if I want to run it too long like this.

I don't think I have any vacuum leaks at this time but I should probably check again using the throttle cleaner trick.
I could be wrong but I believe it starts with high idle when cold and a new IAC will need a few cycles reprogram the ECM?
I say let it warm up and drive it around for a couple of days
 
All these new parts in the tbi, your computer will need time to relearn the fuel strategy. That little bit of exhaust video I saw didn't look bad, normal condensation on cold motor.
Let it warm up. Foot on the brake put it in gear for a minute see if idle reacts.
Change the oil 1st if you haven't.
 
I haven't changed my oil. I know I've said I would... I will just knock it out today.

It is encouraging that you guys are saying to let it warm up and drive it around, maybe I am close to having this thing running again!!
 
I have everything wired to a master kill switch on my buggy that I turn off when it’s parked. So it always idles weird for the first few minutes while it relearns. It always high idles when it’s cold and I fire it up for the first time of the day.
 
I changed the oil and took it for a test drive. It drives great overall. The only odd thing I noticed was that it still surges a little bit as I come to a stop.

I can't believe it's back, THANK YOU to all of you guys. I'm nothing without this forum!!


View attachment VID_24300707_014741_190.mp4
 
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Keep driving it. If it doesn’t tune out the surge, it may still be the IAC. I have the service manual somewhere that says how to reset it
 
Notes to self, just things I need to button up:

1. Reinstall the little heat shield plate / spark plug protector thing that bolts into the exhaust manifold on the passenger side.
2. Check oil level with dipstick. I am starting to thing my gauge doesn't work.
3. Set timing back to factory 0... although it seemed to drive great today as-is.
4. Take care of the small exhaust leaks where the manifolds meet the heads.
 
It might take a bit to clear out the O2 sensor.
As they say, it needs the cobwebs cleaned out of it.

@shima I'm in Denver this weekend if you want to drag race. I brought the big gun too. I promise to give you a couple of lengths.

That should burn the cobwebs out!
 
Glad to hear/see you and the blazer out and about. We, I am happy to help out. You are enthusiastic about your truck and a please to help out.
 
Notes to self, just things I need to button up:

1. Reinstall the little heat shield plate / spark plug protector thing that bolts into the exhaust manifold on the passenger side.
2. Check oil level with dipstick. I am starting to thing my gauge doesn't work.
3. Set timing back to factory 0... although it seemed to drive great today as-is.
4. Take care of the small exhaust leaks where the manifolds meet the heads.

I took care of items 2 and 3 on the list.

After getting the timing dialed-in, I fired up the Blazer one final time in the garage and it ran great. It sounded the best I've ever heard it. The engine was warm from driving around all day. I pulled it out onto the street and it drove wonderfully. The next day, I fired it up again and it died immediately. So, I tried starting it again with my foot on the gas pedal a little bit. It fired up and stayed running. Once I let my foot off the gas pedal, it would idle for a short time but then died again.

I figured that it needed the cobwebs kicked out if it again after I messed with the timing, so I've been trying to drive it around. I drove it to my girlfriend's place a couple of nights ago and sure enough it would die once I took my foot off the gas. It makes me think that the IAC is not allowing air into the engine when I'm idling.

A few times after it would die, I would try starting it and would see the check engine light come on immediately. I checked the code and was getting #43, which I believe is an EST code. Perhaps it is worth taking a second look at the EST components in my engine bay.
 

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