CK5
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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning
- Thread starter shima
- Start date
First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
I like using one of these available at any parts store.
Got it out, thanks to 1A Auto... hah!! One of those guys actually has a Jimmy apparently.
New seal is in, fingers are crossed that the ground stays dry!
Really mangled that old one. Whatever, it's out. Diagnostic tree for EGR tomorrow.
New seal is in, fingers are crossed that the ground stays dry!
Really mangled that old one. Whatever, it's out. Diagnostic tree for EGR tomorrow.
Dumb question time... it says, "diagnostic terminal grounded", does that mean I should use a tool (voltmeter, multimeter) to apply ground to one of the ports inside the electrical connector?
EDIT: This link (http://tech.oldsgmail.com/ecm_aldl.php) says "Trouble codes can be retrieved as simply as by shorting an ALDL terminal to ground and counting flashes of the SES lamp." I remember guys saying you could just use a paper clip to retrieve trouble codes.
EDIT: This link (http://tech.oldsgmail.com/ecm_aldl.php) says "Trouble codes can be retrieved as simply as by shorting an ALDL terminal to ground and counting flashes of the SES lamp." I remember guys saying you could just use a paper clip to retrieve trouble codes.
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Alright, so I got out there and tried going through the diagnostic tree that was posted on the last page for code 32:
I am curious what I should do if I perform the last step and less than 10" of vacuum is shown on the gauge. The diagnostic tree would basically be saying nothing is wrong, but I keep getting this code 32. Can code 32 be thrown because another component outside of the EGR system is messed up? Like an O2 sensor or something like that?
- It says to diagnose any other codes that are stored first. I checked and 43 was there alongside 32. I looked in my Haynes manual and there isn't much by way of diagnosis for 43. It says how to replace it but not much else.
- I've seen 32 by itself plenty of times since owning this truck. Other codes always come later if at all. 32 is always first. So I figure I could still go through the diagnostic tree for code 32.
- Check vacuum source to solenoid (OK)
- Check vacuum hose between solenoid and valve for restrictions (OK)
- ... Do a bunch of steps. Valve should move, does it? (YES)
- ... Do a bunch of steps. Lift up on EGR valve and observe idle. (IDLE ROUGHENS)
I am curious what I should do if I perform the last step and less than 10" of vacuum is shown on the gauge. The diagnostic tree would basically be saying nothing is wrong, but I keep getting this code 32. Can code 32 be thrown because another component outside of the EGR system is messed up? Like an O2 sensor or something like that?
Since I'm so lost on this EGR stuff, I decided to try and tackle something strictly mechanical tonight. Decided to try and take off my swaybar. Got the two big bolts off with no problems, but the four smaller bolts are/were a huge pain in the ass.
I got the front two of them off, but the back two are more challenging. I can't get the head of the bolt to stay still while I unscrew the nut with a socket. The whole thing just spins. Definitely frustrated with it and decided to call it quits for the night.
I got the front two of them off, but the back two are more challenging. I can't get the head of the bolt to stay still while I unscrew the nut with a socket. The whole thing just spins. Definitely frustrated with it and decided to call it quits for the night.
Wish I could be more help with the EGR, but I don't know nuttin about that stuff.
I like to give difficult bolts a good soaking with PB Blaster the day before.
I like to give difficult bolts a good soaking with PB Blaster the day before.
Ah I appreciate it Scott. The EGR is just frustrating because it's an electronically-controlled airflow system. Diagnosing the air stuff was a little weird but do-able after buying a vacuum gauge and pump. But now I'm in the electrical arena and I am clueless with that stuff. Earlier in this thread I asked how to ground out a diagnostic terminal. I still don't know if I did it right and that feels like the most basic of basic type of electrical question. LOL
And yeah, I soaked the last two bolts with PB Blaster before leaving the garage last night. I'm gonna give it another go tonight and see if I can make it work. I'm excited to drive the truck without the swaybar connected. Everyone says the ride is better without it.
And yeah, I soaked the last two bolts with PB Blaster before leaving the garage last night. I'm gonna give it another go tonight and see if I can make it work. I'm excited to drive the truck without the swaybar connected. Everyone says the ride is better without it.
I run no sway bar and as long as you don't try to take corners like a sports car it will be fine without it. Grounding out the terminal you just take something like a paper clip and stick in in the ground terminal and also the diagnostic terminal (A to B on this pic) and that signals the computer to go into diagnostic mode and flash out the codes. Same thing those little code reader tools do that you plug into the port to get the light to flash.
I run no sway bar and as long as you don't try to take corners like a sports car it will be fine without it. Grounding out the terminal you just take something like a paper clip and stick in in the ground terminal and also the diagnostic terminal (A to B on this pic) and that signals the computer to go into diagnostic mode and flash out the codes. Same thing those little code reader tools do that you plug into the port to get the light to flash.
Hell ya, thanks @Truckman4life . I did it correctly then . I'll figure out this EGR stuff eventually. My gut is saying it's the solenoid but I don't wanna keep throwing parts at it .
The best investment I made for stubborn bolts is a Milwaukee M18 1/2" impact. 
But that is an investment.
But that is an investment.
Yeah my guess is that if the egr valve didn't fix it then the next step is the solenoid unless you got a weird wiring issue going on like a spread terminal at the solenoid or something.
The best investment I made for stubborn bolts is a Milwaukee M18 1/2" impact.
I jokingly asked for one for Christmas...
Highly doubt anybody bites. Lol. I'll buy one eventually.
Home Depot had a really good deal on the impact and high capacity battery bundle. Not sure if the deal is still on.
When I bought mine I took the money from my tire fund stash and I haven't regretted it.
When I bought mine I took the money from my tire fund stash and I haven't regretted it.
Finally...
Also, when removing the swaybar, I found this pipe that is seemingly not connected to anything. Can anybody tell me what it is?
Went for a test drive to see how the truck feels without a swaybar. I dig it.
Also, some good news - no trans fluid leak beneath the truck anymore. Score! Thanks @jeff in co
Some meh news - I bought a different EGR solenoid at the junkyard this past weekend. Got it installed and code 32 came back during tonight's test drive. I think I'm just gonna suck it up and buy new. These solenoids have filters on them - I am thinking my old one was worn out and the junkyard one didn't have a filter at all so...
Also, when removing the swaybar, I found this pipe that is seemingly not connected to anything. Can anybody tell me what it is?
Went for a test drive to see how the truck feels without a swaybar. I dig it.
Also, some good news - no trans fluid leak beneath the truck anymore. Score! Thanks @jeff in co
Some meh news - I bought a different EGR solenoid at the junkyard this past weekend. Got it installed and code 32 came back during tonight's test drive. I think I'm just gonna suck it up and buy new. These solenoids have filters on them - I am thinking my old one was worn out and the junkyard one didn't have a filter at all so...
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That pipe is just for the wiring to run through that goes to the starter. For a heat shield to protect it from the manifold heat.
I can't remember since it's been a while since I had a small block truck but I think it's supposed to be bolted on with the bell housing bolts maybe.
Yeah it would be under the 2 vertical bell housing bolts.
Speaking of intense heat... what do you guys use to protect engine bay wiring?
On my K5, there is this thin plastic that sort of looks like ribbed irrigation piping. It's so brittle that if I touch it, it breaks apart. So, I've gotta get in there and redo most of that protective stuff.
On my K5, there is this thin plastic that sort of looks like ribbed irrigation piping. It's so brittle that if I touch it, it breaks apart. So, I've gotta get in there and redo most of that protective stuff.
That's just standard split loom for wiring. Comes in different diameters and I like to just do a few wraps of tape every foot or so and on the places where wires come out or it tees into another run of wiring. It gets brittle when it's 15+ yrs old. There's better stuff out there but new stuff would be cheap. Just don't buy the super cheap dollar bin stuff.
