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1990 K5 Build ( Ol' Blue ) : Rocker rust...

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For what you are doing your plan is a just fine!
Don't buy 373 gears untill you or Rene talk to me... Might be able too hook you up with a complet front 1/2 ton ten bolt with 373s
 
82355 said:
A Dana 60 front with a semi floater rear is an odd combo.

Martin
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Russel runs a SF 14 rear and a D60 front in Penny. 5.13's and matching ARB's with 37's. The diff he has had issues with isn't the SF14, and Russ wheels pretty hard in a rig that is heavier and has three times the available torque.
 
max 02 said:
For what you are doing your plan is a just fine!
Don't buy 373 gears untill you or Rene talk to me... Might be able too hook you up with a complet front 1/2 ton ten bolt with 373s
Click to expand...

If you have one, set it aside please. 3.73's with 33's and a SM465 is good gearing...
 
tRustyK5 said:
If you have one, set it aside please. 3.73's with 33's and a SM465 is good gearing...
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Yup! I'm happy with my 465 and 373s My other two K rigs had the same combo with 35s And worked well.

The front end I's my BILs he wants to get rid of the row of death. :haha:
 
Richcz28 said:
I hope I'm not being difficult, but I'm just giving you the advice I wish I had been given when I built my rear axle.


I bought my axle with a locker for $500. I'm going to break down the prices to the best of my memory to get it into the truck.


$500 - 14bsf with 6 lug shafts and lock right locker
$150 - diff guard
$50 - perches and shock mounts
$200 - all new brakes, studs to match, lug nuts, backing plates
$350 - gears

=$1250



You already know you at least have to buy a locker, shafts (and don't forget drums which are not cheap), and a diff cover. Sure, you got a great price on the axle, but unless you get a steal on lockers and shafts you'll be close to $1000 before you even clean the axle up with breaks and seals and everything.

You could probably be disc braked on a cucv takeout axle with a locker and 6 lug for a similar price point. You'd have to do the math. Either way, you're also buying front gears. I'd be looking for a deeper gear than 3.73. This is what I wish I'd have done.

Also, it seems every performance part for a 14ff is cheaper than a 14bsf.

In my opinion, the only reason to go 14bsf is when you want a cheap way to run an 8 lug setup, not the other way around. If you can get a matching drivable 8 lug setup off a burb and bolt it in cheap and easy without any extra work needed.
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Rich, I understand where you are coming from with your math. However, he doesn't need to regear or buy spring perches and shock mounts. Also buying any used diff you'll have to do a full brake job on it regardless so I figure that's a bit of a wash.

The only thing left to question would be what to do with the front axle.
 
I'm pretty sure he does need perches and shock mounts. It's off an Ifs truck. Not that they are expensive, but it's just hard work.
 
All the BS'ing Nick and I have done over the last few weeks tells me he wants a mild wheeler, well built. That and take care of the little issues any 25 year old rig has. Nick just bought those 33's on new 6 lug rims. It makes the most sense to convert the 14 SF to 6 lug, and either re-gear the front or get another 6 lug front that has 3.73's already.

With a SM 465 and 33's those are perfect gears. I ran the same gears with a SM465 and 35's, and eventually 36's.
 
82355 said:
A Dana 60 front with a semi floater rear is an odd combo.

Martin
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That's how I ended up on my K20. Only because the SF was freshly re built and reheated when I bought it.

But it put up with some decent wheeling with 40s no problems.
There's no plans to change it out unless something breaks catastrophically.
 
Richcz28 said:
I'm pretty sure he does need perches and shock mounts. It's off an Ifs truck. Not that they are expensive, but it's just hard work.
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Oh I didn't realize that. If so why buy it in the first place since it is neither a bolt in or the right amount of lugs? Honestly, does that yard take returns? You'd be money ahead to either start with a factory 6 lug 14bsf and move the perches or buy an 8 lug out of a square body and convert it.

I hope I'm not coming off harsh on the OP.
 
Bottom left... every post on my phone!??

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Oh and there is a 373 14 ff out of a 81 6.2 c 20 sitting here aswell... just to stir the pot a bit! :haha:
 
Chevy305 said:
Oh I didn't realize that. If so why buy it in the first place since it is neither a bolt in or the right amount of lugs? Honestly, does that yard take returns? You'd be money ahead to either start with a factory 6 lug 14bsf and move the perches or buy an 8 lug out of a square body and convert it.

I hope I'm not coming off harsh on the OP.
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Perches and shock mounts are nothin'...

6 lug SF around here, hen's teeth are more common. Square body truck in a junk yard is the same problem. What it has going for it is it's the exact width that a square body rear ten bolt is. 65" WMS to WMS. The two FF I saw were both dually.
 
tRustyK5 said:
What it has going for it is it's the exact width that a square body rear ten bolt is. 65" WMS to WMS.
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I don't really consider that a positive thing. Also, I thought the IFS trucks had a wider WMS. I forget the exact numbers, but I believe mine was two inches wider. It rubs less on the inner fenders and matches the front more closely.

Deuling and or Glenn,(I think you're in here somewhere) isn't this part of why you made spacers for the 6 lug shafts?
 
Well, me and Nick grabbed a straight edge and a tape. It's 65". :dunno:

If he was going 8 lug he'd have to run spacers just to get the width's close. Converting it to 6 lug he doesn't need spacers to end up with it looking exactly like it does now.
 
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