ahh i get what your putting down now. Yea rene gave me the rundown on how to trim them efficiently. Also going to leave the front fangs since im still running a stock bumper for now.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
1990 K5 Build ( Ol' Blue ) : Rocker rust...
- Thread starter bix
- Start date
ahh i get what your putting down now. Yea rene gave me the rundown on how to trim them efficiently. Also going to leave the front fangs since im still running a stock bumper for now.
Have you been driving it with the 35" tires and 3.73's? That will be a touch undergeared.
Martin
Martin
Oh, and white letters in is the devil.
Martin
Martin
I used to tow a 5500 lb trailer with my K5 when it had 3.73's and 35's. It was fine, and even better when not towing. Less revs on the highway was good too.
White letters might be cool nowhere. Lipstick where none was needed...prom dress on a whore...etc. Ultimately, a free rolling billboard for the company that makes the tires, without any compensation for said advertising. Do you have a tire sponsor? I don't, so after paying full retail I have them mounted with the offending letters in.
White letters might be cool nowhere. Lipstick where none was needed...prom dress on a whore...etc. Ultimately, a free rolling billboard for the company that makes the tires, without any compensation for said advertising. Do you have a tire sponsor? I don't, so after paying full retail I have them mounted with the offending letters in.
Black tires matter
Ive been driving it for the past week now as it's my DD. I like the gearing quite a bit compared to how it was. It's nice to be turning 2500 on the highway instead of 2750 at 100kph. I find the 35s, 373s, and the sm465 to be a good match. If it wasn't a daily driver or if I had the OD from a nv4500 l, I would totally gear down a bit more but for now I think it's just fine. This will turn back into more of a project in a year or two once I'm more stable and can get another DD instead of the blazer. I haven't wheeled it yet with the bigger tires so that'll be the true test of the gearing though.
So lately I've been having some engine issues on start ups. Almost always in the mornings. This issue did start up again yesterday on my way home from work once I stopped for a few things at the grocery store and came back out to go home. When I crank it over it barely rises in rpms as it slowly and weakly climbs up to 600 then stumbles back down to 100-200 rpms. It usually rises back to 600 and then down again. But it also dies the other half of the time. I've checked for vacuum leaks with ether and haven't found any, plugs and wires are good. The distributor cap and rotor were good the last time I pulled them but I'm going to do that again today when I get home. Through previous research people have said the TPS, EGR, or the EGR solenoid a may be failing. My EGR valve does move back and forth with finger pressure but I'm not sure how much it's supposed to take. New EGRS aren't that cheap so I don't want to start throwing money at it. Has anyone ever had this problem and found a fix? I'll keep updating as I keep troubleshooting new things.
The other weird thing about this symptom is that the truck only does this about once a month for a day or two and then acts fine again..
The other weird thing about this symptom is that the truck only does this about once a month for a day or two and then acts fine again..
Today at work the truck wouldn't run at all. Itd start and die right away. If you pressed the gas it'd run but the minute you let off itd die again ...
All I had was a ball point pen to block the EGR air intake into the TB but it worked. I also unplugged the EGR solenoid..
Now that I know that this smog air care POS has been causing 2-3 of my problems over the last year, does anyone know of any harm done to the computer if I remove the solenoid and do an EGR delete ? Ive read that it can cause the tempuratures to rise int the combustion chamber and cause pinging.
All I had was a ball point pen to block the EGR air intake into the TB but it worked. I also unplugged the EGR solenoid..
Now that I know that this smog air care POS has been causing 2-3 of my problems over the last year, does anyone know of any harm done to the computer if I remove the solenoid and do an EGR delete ? Ive read that it can cause the tempuratures to rise int the combustion chamber and cause pinging.
Last edited:
Well I've been driving it for a few days now and no codes popped up so I ordered an EGR block off plate and im going to just remove the EGR system. I figure if the temps rise in the combustion Chambers and it has to retard the timing a bit it will do so.
The EGR is a stupid system anyways. Purposely fouling the air/fuel mixture with exhaust to artificially lower NOX...there is nothing good about it.
So it's almost time to hit the dusty trail home tomorrow from Rene's. I changed out my distributor the other day as mine was eating itself pretty badly. I marked it so it's in the same place as the original one was because for the life of me couldn't find the tan and blank lead wire for the EST to set the base timing back to zero. I notice some odd lags at certain times and would like to make sure it's set back to zero or close to with how much this truck has been messed with by the PO. Anything I find online isn't for a blazer and the single wire connector is in plain site. Does anyone know where it's located on these. ?
I've traced it from the back of the dizzy into the harness but it seems to disappear into the firewall before I can locate a connector?
I've traced it from the back of the dizzy into the harness but it seems to disappear into the firewall before I can locate a connector?
in cab or near the brake booster area?
Near the booster. It is about 2 inches out of the the engine harness just before it plugs into the back of the fuse panel.
So I disconnected the wire and the base timing was set to somewhere around -4 degrees if not more. The thing barely ran. Set it back to zero and it runs good without the EST wire connected and with it connected. Took it for a little test drive. Seems a bit more responsive now so hopefully that'll help!
Dicking around with the truck today in a buddies drive way. Oil change and all that after almost 2000 km of straight driving.. found these LEDs i had and got them to work... Dash lights!! What a treat. Been a long time without any. The small victories are quite sweet. Also located a flat top knuckle in the area to start collecting pieces for cross over steering. Anyone make their own kit or is the ORD kit the best way to go?
