Weld a couple of handles to it, a little padding and you got yourself a great sled. 
CK5
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1990 K5 Build ( Ol' Blue ) : Rocker rust...
- Thread starter bix
- Start date
whats factory sheet metal gage on these? 20 or 22? for my floor pans i used 16g and it was quite a bit thicker, but for matching up these body lines its probably best to use matching steel?
Weld a couple of handles to it, a little padding and you got yourself a great sled.
hmmm now to find snow....
Cool that you still have it Nick!
I did 2x6 tube on my blazer. Welded them to the body and then added two tube supports to the frame. Rock solid. I would use my hi lift on it to lift the truck up from the side.
I liked the 2x6 because I’m addition to acting like a step it kept stuff out of the door. It did stick out a bit but the 37s stuck out a good hunk too so it didn’t look to bad.
I liked the 2x6 because I’m addition to acting like a step it kept stuff out of the door. It did stick out a bit but the 37s stuck out a good hunk too so it didn’t look to bad.
My tires dont stick out too much, and i dont know if ill go much bigger than the 35s for a few years. I was thinking .5/.75 inches would be a good amount for the profile of my truck but i definitely see what youre saying.
We have snow but no hills...i could ship you some?
Took some measurements today and also took a closer look around.
Looks like its about 3.75 inches down from where id want to cut the rocker. So like @tRustyK5 said, 3" x whatever is definitely closer to stock size of the rocker but i think ill still go with 2" x whatever steel material. If 2x4 material is put flush with the outside of the bottom of the door, it will go in far enough to pass my rusted out flanges on the cab supports, but only by a bit and thats flush. Maybe 2x6 would be better as i could have it stick out a bit past the doors, and also i could cut more rusty flange metal off to mount them.. .When the inner rocker rusted out it definitely took that flange with it. That would save me from replacing 2 of the 4 cab supports, since they are solid enough except one that is cracked at the body mount and floating, but the other rear is pretty fubared aswell. Im not entirely sure how im going to replace the one in without removing the body mount, ill have to take a closer look at it. Maybe i could remove that body mount bolt and jack up the body enough to slide a new one in. I couldnt imagine id have to jack it up much, but welding it in that spot might be hard...
The bottom of the floors are good still, definitely need a good wire wheel , rust primer, paint and maybe some sort of spray. The sub frame support is still solid and cant poke any holes through it. Ill wire wheel that too and see if maybe it need some beefing up in the future. It definitely looks like some goopey inner rocker repairs was made at some point by a PO. Lots of goop and crap around the edges of where they were attached to the outters.
Also wondering if this support rod is removed or just tacked onto the new rocker/slider box, as the mounting surface will get cut ?
The rear inner and outer wells, and the quarters will get fixed next on the list so if this support rod is needed for them id like to keep it.
Looks like its about 3.75 inches down from where id want to cut the rocker. So like @tRustyK5 said, 3" x whatever is definitely closer to stock size of the rocker but i think ill still go with 2" x whatever steel material. If 2x4 material is put flush with the outside of the bottom of the door, it will go in far enough to pass my rusted out flanges on the cab supports, but only by a bit and thats flush. Maybe 2x6 would be better as i could have it stick out a bit past the doors, and also i could cut more rusty flange metal off to mount them.. .When the inner rocker rusted out it definitely took that flange with it. That would save me from replacing 2 of the 4 cab supports, since they are solid enough except one that is cracked at the body mount and floating, but the other rear is pretty fubared aswell. Im not entirely sure how im going to replace the one in without removing the body mount, ill have to take a closer look at it. Maybe i could remove that body mount bolt and jack up the body enough to slide a new one in. I couldnt imagine id have to jack it up much, but welding it in that spot might be hard...
The bottom of the floors are good still, definitely need a good wire wheel , rust primer, paint and maybe some sort of spray. The sub frame support is still solid and cant poke any holes through it. Ill wire wheel that too and see if maybe it need some beefing up in the future. It definitely looks like some goopey inner rocker repairs was made at some point by a PO. Lots of goop and crap around the edges of where they were attached to the outters.
Also wondering if this support rod is removed or just tacked onto the new rocker/slider box, as the mounting surface will get cut ?
The rear inner and outer wells, and the quarters will get fixed next on the list so if this support rod is needed for them id like to keep it.
welcome to canuckada!.....
This thing was beat on with gravel covered snow roads in alberta its whole life..
This thing was beat on with gravel covered snow roads in alberta its whole life..
also why i was tempted to replace the rockers, patches and also put sliders on, just so it was cleaner all around.... but whatever. One day ill have a garage again and i can maybe do a cab swap. Californias not CRAZY far away...
When I get back from Hawaii me and the woman are gonna start looking for a place, and I told her I'd have to rent a garage if we didn't find a place with one , and she said we should just pay the extra rent and find one with a garage. I couldn't argue
When I get back from Hawaii me and the woman are gonna start looking for a place, and I told her I'd have to rent a garage if we didn't find a place with one , and she said we should just pay the extra rent and find one with a garage. I couldn't argue
So hopefully then I can tackle the rear tail pan, and bedsides. Whoever fixed these before didnt do a great job as they were FULL of wet dirt and grime when I started ripping the rusted inner rockers out with my hand
When I did my tailpan I had to find a way to raise and support the body enough to remove and re-install the tailpan...I eventually got a pair of bottle jacks on top of the rear tires and a block of 2x6 under the wheel tub to spread the load. I undid the body mounts completely at the tailpan and the next set going forward, then loosened the next couple going forward a fair bit. Then I gently jacked the body up a little at a time on each jack until I got enough room to slide the tailpan out. IMO this is also a great time to replace all the body mount bushings with poly, and new heavily greased bolts. You're going to do 80% the work already...and it's cheap.
There are two rows of spot welds along the rear edge of the floor, plus the welded are at the corners.
Outside wheel arches are not hard, they sell patches for that. For the inside structure check out the LMC catalog for pick-ups and you'll find those pieces there.
There are two rows of spot welds along the rear edge of the floor, plus the welded are at the corners.
Outside wheel arches are not hard, they sell patches for that. For the inside structure check out the LMC catalog for pick-ups and you'll find those pieces there.
Have you seen how @the_blaze did Plan B? I’ve always liked how they turned out. If you go back one or two posts you can see where he talks more about materials and stuff. I’m linking you to the mostly finished product.
PLAN B
PLAN B
I found a blazer on a block nearby. I've only seen one or two since I moved here. It's got a SF swapped into it but it's about to turn into a hedge with all the moss.. real Canadian natural camo paint job..
I'm gonna have to do drive bys and find this guy out of his house one day haha.
@Scribbles thanks I've been catching up on that thread but I haven't gotten to that part yet. I'll jump forward a bit.
I'm gonna have to do drive bys and find this guy out of his house one day haha.
@Scribbles thanks I've been catching up on that thread but I haven't gotten to that part yet. I'll jump forward a bit.
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Wet coast camo...
the astro glide actually has a plant growing from the doors rubber weatherstripping on the frame... i think i have a picture somewhere. This winter hasnt been bad so far but its not over yet..
I kinda don't miss that...at all. 
yea its definitely got a whole lot different kind of a " **** you " to it...
