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1990 K5 - The Dent Side K5

90 K5 Blazer on tons and 37’s
Overview Gallery Discussion
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with the Coronavirus fun, I’ve still had to work but I’m trying to make the most of no plans outside of work. I’m just wrapping up the kitchen remodel for the wife which means I can start spending more time in the shop.

Lugnut4x4 was great about the rear caliper and took care of me really fast! It motivated me to tackle a few other projects on the K5.

I’m going after the spring bushings and hangers, does anyone have a trick? I’ve always used brute force and fight the bushings every step of the way....help
 
Thanks!

Good eye, its a 70 Chevelle. I did a full frame off on it and did everything myself except for paint. 496ci motor, M21, and a beefed up 12 bolt. Full powder coated frame, Hotchkiss suspension, etc.

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Mines the one on the left next to Roadster Shops build.
 
The picture of your Chevelle looks to be the SEMA show here my town of Vegas. I had an 1970 SS 396 Chevelle that I bought back in 1978, when I was a kid in High School, for $800. You could not buy one of those for that kind of money anymore.
 
Thank you @centexk5! It is my dream car too. I put a lot of time into it and appreciate the kind words. Never planning on selling her.

It was at SEMA in 2018 for the battle of the builders competition. SEMA is an incredible experience. So much to see, it’s near impossible to walk the whole thing.
 
Got a little more done today after work. Remounted the transmission cooler higher (and straight), mounted the power steering cooler, installed a fan shroud (didn’t have one), flex fan, fan clutch delete, and added an extra electric fan inside the shroud just Incase it decides to heat up.


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Front axle is loose! Should be able to pull springs tomorrow and fight those original bushings. Does anyone have any tips for those of us without a press?
 
Gibby56 said:
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Front axle is loose! Should be able to pull springs tomorrow and fight those original bushings. Does anyone have any tips for those of us without a press?
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Without a press the best way, if pounding on it doesn't push it out, is to drill through the rubber and remove the bulk of it, then a chisel under the left over sleeve and peel it off.
 
That’s what i figured. Thank you for the reassurance I’ve been going about it the best way my whole life. Spring bushings are probably my least favorite maintenance item. I always feel like i end of fighting then for hours. I figured i would ask to make sure i wasn’t crazy.

All the parts should be in to make this go smoothly. B52 front brackets, zero rate to keep the same spring height when i remove the overload, DIY4X rear spring hangers, new studs/ubolts, DIY4X pocketed spring plates, brake pads, rotors, calipers, warn hubs, and bump stop pads. I was happy to see the front shocks still had a decent charge in them when i unbolted the axle bud disappointed to see they were too short. Also, more sad news is a new front driveshaft is in my future. When i dropped the axle out it became obvious it was way too short.
 
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Take a hole saw that is the right diameter to be bigger than the bolt sleeve and smaller than the outer diameter of the bushing. Pull the trigger and go to town. The saw may not reach all the way through so flip over and repeat.

It will smell like burnt rubber but you'll chew those things up in minutes.
 
Just posted this in the other thread where i asked about axle placement but also wanted to post it here. Almost done with the front, then i can move to the back.

I think i am at the limit of functionality before running into issues with the pitman arm at full bump.

i went with 5 leaf 52’s and removed the overload
EZ Inch installed for 1” forward
B52 brackets mounted in the forward position
Front leaf in the second hole from the front
And rear hangers in the stock location with 6” shackles


I think it’s a respectable stretch and still have a good shackle angle. So far pretty happy


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I’ve started addressing more electrical gremlins. This is a before picture of the mess a PO left, I forgot to take an after. The truck only had 2 speakers that worked. I cut out at least 3 previous stereo harnesses and started fresh. Removed any crimp connectors I could find and soldered/shrink wrapped all the connections.
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I put the new Warn hubs on that I will run until I rebuild the front axle. Plumbed up the power steering cooler and bled the system. The Pro Eagle jack is incredible. Definitely worth the price tag.
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Installed the center console and installed foam in places I expect to make contact with when the truck slams side to side.
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I finished wiring in the new tach and clock. I also adjusted the DRAC for the gearing/tire size
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Grille is back on. The cooler is sitting in a nice spot, got lucky
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Tore apart an old 10k winch to prep for install
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CFM Industries winch cradle painted and ready for install. I also purchased the side wings but will install those down the road
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She is coming together! So excited to take this thing out hopefully soon. I drove it around town a bit and it is a whole new truck with the front suspension and all the new brakes. I feel so much more confident in the reliability of it
 
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Front winch cradle and winch are bolted up. Still need to wire it and put on a new cable.

I had no idea how tweaked the front end of this truck was. Getting the bolt holes lined up was an interesting combo of ratchet straps and center punches. The cradle definitely helped support everything and I could tell an obvious difference driving and going around corners.
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The fit of the CFM Industries bumper (cradle+wings) is phenomenal. I also love how tight everything was to the B52 brackets without modifications.
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the side wings are on. In my opinion it’s by far the best bang for the buck in terms of a front bumper and I think it looks great. Its high clearance, tight to the body, strengthens the front frame, pockets for light, and can still fit a winch.
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not going to lie, i also like it’s a similar style to the one on my Dodge
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The bumper looks great, I wish I had wings for my Diy4x cradle.
 
Oooh that’s a neat tidbit of information. Thanks!
 
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