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1991 Chevy Crew Cab "R" / "V" Conversion

Overview Gallery Discussion
The thing you have to think about if you want to go AT 4000's is they are center pinion location for both front and rear. So what guys usually end up doing is clocking their t-case straight down to get an ok d-shaft angle for the front shaft. Not like it's not doable, but have to take it into consideration for the personal uses of your truck
 
Got beef?
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Just kidding. You need one of @obijuank5 Dana 70 fronts. You could also build a 14 bolt front axle but then you are still stuck with 60 outters. I'd just be worried about the bearings and all that outter stuff with the weight of those tires. Plus some bigger brakes would help I bet.
 
Yea the rockwells are not ideal because of the top loader design but are hands down the cheapest option for axles of that weight rating and easy to find. Their price skyrockets in mud bogging country but up here NOBODY wants the hydraulic brake 5 ton axles. When I scrapped out the old military dump truck I had all 3 axles listed for $200 together, ended up going to scrap. Local place Boyce Equipment didn't want them either because of the same problem and they have stacks of them sitting out back.
 
Kay86K5 said:
What is your overall lift again with the new springs you just put on? My brother has 2.5 ton rockwells under his 88 Blazer (it's a truggy now and the front end is all tubed out...but still, has factory frame and still with leafs), and IIRC he has only a total of 6-7" of lift in the front and the top loader clears the cross-member. Granted, he did move his front axle forward a few inches and installed an ORD high clearance cross-member too.
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The front currently has right around 7" of lift, possible a hair more by the time I push the front axle back a little. The big problem is the crossmember for the Cummins, it hangs down pretty good. I need to do some measuring to see how much if any clearance issues the rockwells might cause.

Kay86K5 said:
The thing you have to think about if you want to go AT 4000's is they are center pinion location for both front and rear. So what guys usually end up doing is clocking their t-case straight down to get an ok d-shaft angle for the front shaft. Not like it's not doable, but have to take it into consideration for the personal uses of your truck
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I had noticed the centered pinion but had not really thought about how that would mess with the transfer case... something to think about...

Truckman4life said:
Just kidding. You need one of @obijuank5 Dana 70 fronts. You could also build a 14 bolt front axle but then you are still stuck with 60 outters. I'd just be worried about the bearings and all that outter stuff with the weight of those tires. Plus some bigger brakes would help I bet.
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I would love to find a D70 front or, if money were no problem, have a D80 front built but I dont see that happening. Going to have to keep my eyes open for something!

red EOD said:
Yea the rockwells are not ideal because of the top loader design but are hands down the cheapest option for axles of that weight rating and easy to find. Their price skyrockets in mud bogging country but up here NOBODY wants the hydraulic brake 5 ton axles. When I scrapped out the old military dump truck I had all 3 axles listed for $200 together, ended up going to scrap. Local place Boyce Equipment didn't want them either because of the same problem and they have stacks of them sitting out back.
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Yeah, the combo of price and strength are what draw me in, guess i need to start checking around down here to see the going price..
 
red EOD said:
Yea the rockwells are not ideal because of the top loader design but are hands down the cheapest option for axles of that weight rating and easy to find. Their price skyrockets in mud bogging country but up here NOBODY wants the hydraulic brake 5 ton axles. When I scrapped out the old military dump truck I had all 3 axles listed for $200 together, ended up going to scrap. Local place Boyce Equipment didn't want them either because of the same problem and they have stacks of them sitting out back.
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Damn yo I woulda built something cool with some of those.
 
Truckman4life said:
Damn yo I woulda built something cool with some of those.
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Rockwell 5 tons weigh about 1200 pounds per axle, not including the shafts. That was the main reason all the guys building rock crawlers were not interested in them here. Funny thing is mud boggers pay well over 1k per axle, but are not willing to pay for shipping.

I still have the locker from one of the axles sitting in storage, along with a few dana 70hd rear axles hahaha.
 
red EOD said:
Rockwell 5 tons weigh about 1200 pounds per axle, not including the shafts. That was the main reason all the guys building rock crawlers were not interested in them here. Funny thing is mud boggers pay well over 1k per axle, but are not willing to pay for shipping.

I still have the locker from one of the axles sitting in storage, along with a few dana 70hd rear axles hahaha.
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Sorry to hijack. Bet they would be good for a cool farm truck tractor type something.
 
So I was able to get some work done on clearancing the core support and inner fenders. I was also able to get my grid heater hooked up, and I pulled the steering column to have it rebuilt and mocked up a swaybar to see if it will work with my crossover steering.

I was able to trim a section of core support and fold it up to create an angle that created about 3 more inches of clearance. Then I trimmed the inner fender and worked it around so I could bolt it back under the core support. Photos maybe easier to understand...
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Here are some shots of the swaybar test fit up. It's a 2011 F250 swaybar and Jeep XJ swaybar links.
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stockk5 said:
holy crap @shock88 look at this set up.

What sway bar set up is that?
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Swaybar is from a 2011 f250 4x4, links are Procomp for a Xj and I have spaced the swaybar down about 2". The tabs for the links are welded to the lower shock mounts. I haven't driven it yet but the only time the pitman arm gets close to the swaybar is at full lock and about 3" of up travel.
 
mckustomfab said:
Swaybar is from a 2011 f250 4x4, links are Procomp for a Xj and I have spaced the swaybar down about 2". The tabs for the links are welded to the lower shock mounts. I haven't driven it yet but the only time the pitman arm gets close to the swaybar is at full lock and about 3" of up travel.
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Very curious how it drives, I have a panhard set up on mine which made a big difference. I wonder if a swaybar would help.
 
So I have logged a few hundred miles on this setup, the sway-bar made a pretty noticeable difference. Between the longer, softer, taller front springs and the bigger tires I am glad to have the sway-bar back on. I had to remove some sheet metal from the back of the front wheel opening, now I can turn lock to lock without getting into the metal. I still need to setup some front bump stops to limit up-travel, install my rear shackle flip, install the rear axle with 4.56 gears, and install the bigger front brakes. I will be taking a short trip in the truck coming up so I decided to install a small tool box and then use up some gift cards I received for Christmas to buy some hand tools. I'm pretty happy with how it worked out. Here are a few pics for now.

Revised fender trimming.
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Tool box bolted in and ready.
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Nothing fancy hand tools
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mckustomfab said:
So I have logged a few hundred miles on this setup, the sway-bar made a pretty noticeable difference. Between the longer, softer, taller front springs and the bigger tires I am glad to have the sway-bar back on. I had to remove some sheet metal from the back of the front wheel opening, now I can turn lock to lock without getting into the metal. I still need to setup some front bump stops to limit up-travel, install my rear shackle flip, install the rear axle with 4.56 gears, and install the bigger front brakes. I will be taking a short trip in the truck coming up so I decided to install a small tool box and then use up some gift cards I received for Christmas to buy some hand tools. I'm pretty happy with how it worked out. Here are a few pics for now.

Revised fender trimming.
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Tool box bolted in and ready.
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Nothing fancy hand tools
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This thing is awesome! And fwiw I’ve been using husky hand tools at work for almost 5 years now, and I don’t have any complaints at all. Get the 32 piece gear wrench set and you will have everything I have. Lol
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F.S.F.W said:
This thing is awesome! And fwiw I’ve been using husky hand tools at work for almost 5 years now, and I don’t have any complaints at all. Get the 32 piece gear wrench set and you will have everything I have. Lol
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Thanks man! I don't expect any trouble out of the Husky tools, I bought the 256pc set for $110.00 and added a few things that I felt it was lacking. I also have a set of the Husky ratchet wrenches in my box in the garage and really like them. I haven't decided if I want a set in my "road box", I am trying to avoid stuffing it with a lot of tools that I wont use. Case-in-point, I didn't include any of the 6 point sockets from the original set, I only used the 12 point, that way I cut down on about 25 sockets.
 
mckustomfab said:
Thanks man! I don't expect any trouble out of the Husky tools, I bought the 256pc set for $110.00 and added a few things that I felt it was lacking. I also have a set of the Husky ratchet wrenches in my box in the garage and really like them. I haven't decided if I want a set in my "road box", I am trying to avoid stuffing it with a lot of tools that I wont use. Case-in-point, I didn't include any of the 6 point sockets from the original set, I only used the 12 point, that way I cut down on about 25 sockets.
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Yeah I don’t use the 6 point stuff very often because they use 12 point bolt heads a lot in marine applications. I’m probably going to ditch most of my stuff at home and get the same stuff I have here at work.

I like what you are doing here though! I wanted to build my deuce and a half similar to this but it never happened. Maybe later in life?
 
This things rad. glad i found this thread!:popcorn:
 
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