1991 V1500 "The Yeti" - NEW crate 6.0 - FIRST START!

[jtrux]

Started pulling the 350 tonight. Was pretty careful pulling all the front accessories since they are being donated to my brother's '77 so that took a bit of time.

All that's left before it will come out are the motor mount bolts, fuel lines, and get the exhaust out of the way. After that, it should slide right out.

The biggest debate for me is how crazy to get with cleaning the engine compartment. It's really easy to get carried away and that means I'll likely just wash it down very well with some brushes by hand and avoid doing any painting or anything. There's no rust or anything like that so a good cleaning is really all that's necessary but I do need to pull the pass inner fender to get the HVAC box out to change out the evaporator so hopefully I don't get some wild hair up my ass to start painting everything lol. I will keep telling myself that the more time I spend cleaning it is less time I spend driving it.

The other night I purchased a lightly used L96 intake with rails and injectors and it arrived today. I won't install it until the engine is in but at least its here.

No shipping info yet on the engine which is a bummer. I was hoping it would be on its way here by now so it would be here before Thanksgiving but it may not make it
We will see.

 

[jtrux]

Still sorta bummed to not have shipping info on the engine yet BUT being so close to the Holidays might delay things.

All the same, everyone else has been busy shipping stuffs to my house.

Here's a few pics of some of the stuff I received.

The BP harness is really nice and the instructions are thorough. Keep in mind I've never ordered any other harness so I have nothing to compare to, but I'm really happy with BP.

The Quick Draw bellhousing seems nice. Of course, I won't know how nice it is until I install it but once again, I'm happy with it and that fancy little made in the greatest country on Earth stamp on the back.

This Holley throttle body feels stout. I am going with DBC and not DBW so in order to do that with the L96 intake I had to buy an aftermarket throttle body. I could have adapted a 3 bolt factory DBC throttle body to the 4 bolt intake but that just seemed silly.

 

[jtrux]

Well, the engine is coming out tomorrow. Since the kids are out of school, I'm gonna take them over to the inlaws for a few hrs and then come home and get to work getting this 350 out once and for all.

Once it's out I'll focus on changing out the evaporator and buttoning that up and then focus on cleaning the engine compartment and man does it need some cleaning. Its filthy.

I did a little test spot just to see how big of a difference it would make. As much as I hate to clean, it just has to be done. I cant justify stuffing this brand new engine in without at least washing the compartment. I'm not painting a thing cuz i know how quickly that can get out of hand but I will scrub it down.

I will pull the pass inner fender to remove the HVAC box and clean it up while it's down. I'm gonna clean as much of the drivers one as possible but if i can't get it the way I want I might drop it also but that's as extensive as I'm gonna get.

The engine is on its way. As of today it's in OK on a truck heading this way. I'm expecting it to be here by Wed more than likely but maybe I'll be surprised and it will get here late tomorrow. Here's hoping.

I have the Holley adapter mounts to drop the engine in the stock location so that should be somewhat effortless. I've used them before with good results.

I've also gone back and forth on whether to drop the tranny or not and install the engine and stab the tranny or try and slide the engine into place with the tranny bolted down and I finally decided to just pull the tranny back. IME it's just easier to stab a manual tranny into place versus trying to get the engine to mate to the tranny, especially when working alone. I'm sure others feel different about it but I don't want to take chances with this engine and want to get it bolted down as effortlessly as possible then I can worry about getting the tranny mated to it.

 

[jtrux]

https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/headers_and_exhaust_manifolds/exhaust_manifolds/parts/8505HKR

These will likely be the manifolds I buy. The current drivers side manifold is identical to these and the drivers side clears the external slave very well and the passenger side will be just fine with this style so it looks ljke this win. Lots more options if I didnt have an external clutch but it is what it is.

 

[imiceman44]

Well, the engine is coming out tomorrow. Since the kids are out of school, I'm gonna take them over to the inlaws for a few hrs and then come home and get to work getting this 350 out once and for all.

Once it's out I'll focus on changing out the evaporator and buttoning that up and then focus on cleaning the engine compartment and man does it need some cleaning. Its filthy.

I did a little test spot just to see how big of a difference it would make. As much as I hate to clean, it just has to be done. I cant justify stuffing this brand new engine in without at least washing the compartment. I'm not painting a thing cuz i know how quickly that can get out of hand but I will scrub it down.

I will pull the pass inner fender to remove the HVAC box and clean it up while it's down. I'm gonna clean as much of the drivers one as possible but if i can't get it the way I want I might drop it also but that's as extensive as I'm gonna get.

The engine is on its way. As of today it's in OK on a truck heading this way. I'm expecting it to be here by Wed more than likely but maybe I'll be surprised and it will get here late tomorrow. Here's hoping.

I have the Holley adapter mounts to drop the engine in the stock location so that should be somewhat effortless. I've used them before with good results.

I've also gone back and forth on whether to drop the tranny or not and install the engine and stab the tranny or try and slide the engine into place with the tranny bolted down and I finally decided to just pull the tranny back. IME it's just easier to stab a manual tranny into place versus trying to get the engine to mate to the tranny, especially when working alone. I'm sure others feel different about it but I don't want to take chances with this engine and want to get it bolted down as effortlessly as possible then I can worry about getting the tranny mated to it.

View attachment 491871

I too prefer putting the engine in then stabbing the transmission.
Now I finally have a real transmission jack that makes it easy.
I used to bench press them in, but I am too old for that now

 

[CriticalAction]

https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/headers_and_exhaust_manifolds/exhaust_manifolds/parts/8505HKR

These will likely be the manifolds I buy. The current drivers side manifold is identical to these and the drivers side clears the external slave very well and the passenger side will be just fine with this style so it looks ljke this win. Lots more options if I didnt have an external clutch but it is what it is.

Guessing you saw my reply to your other thread but happened to see in DrSmash build thread:



Same headers you linked above with factory sm465 external slave. Clearly shows the big difference between it and the Quickdraw brand setup. I think you could still get away with the Summit brand manifolds but it's your choice.

 

[jtrux]

Guessing you saw my reply to your other thread but happened to see in DrSmash build thread:

View attachment 491935

Same headers you linked above with factory sm465 external slave. Clearly shows the big difference between it and the Quickdraw brand setup. I think you could still get away with the Summit brand manifolds but it's your choice.

I had not seen your post yet but I'm glad I finally did. Great call on the Summit manifolds. Beyond unboxing the bellhousing I haven't done a single thing else with it in regards to figuring out clearance or anything.

And looking at that pic you posted of the Quick Draw slave set up, it looks like just about anything would clear. For $210 bucks I can't go wrong.

Here's a few pics from today's adventure.

Tomorrow I'll try to get the engine compartment cleaned up and maybe, just maybe, get the flywheel, clutch and motor mounts bolted in place so I can set the beast in place. Those are lofty goals but I'm gonna try my best. I really wanted the engine in the sub by Tday and I might just succeed.

 

[jtrux]

Before running around doing a bit of engine compartment cleaning this morning and did a little before and after pic. Granted, this is just me cleaning the firewall with a sponge and some surface cleaner. I also scrubbed the pass frame rail just to see if it would make a difference. Firewall cleaned up nice but frame is so so. I'll scrub the other side of the frame and if I happen to have some black paint in the garage I might hit the top of the frame rail with it but that will be it.

This afternoon I'm gonna be free again and I might hit the compartment with the power washer and while it's drying I'll start prepping the engine to go in with the mounts and bellhousing. My brother might swing by and help me lower it in place this evening.

 

[jtrux]

Well, it was going very smooth until it wasn't. I thought I would be okay with crossmember clearance with the ORD mounts but it's no Bueno. I was considering ordering the crossmember but I think I will just lift the engine up as high as I can and notch it and weld in some plate.

The board is there just keeping it from resting on the pan.

Once it's notched I'll get the mounts bolted in solidly and start attaching accessories. There's a few small parts to but but I'm not missing much.

 

[ZooMad75]

My 5.3 touched right there with the stock engine cross member. The corner of the pan had plenty of material to knock the corner off with a hand file. Ended up with 1/4” clearance. Using poly oem style engine mounts it never touched. I can’t say stock rubber mounts would have worked as they squish more over time.

Only other option is to ditch the stock engine cross member and put in a tubular unit from ORD that will clear without an issue.

 

[jtrux]

Only other option is to ditch the stock engine cross member and put in a tubular unit from ORD that will clear without an issue.

I considered the crossmember but wanted to keep moving along and since truck isn't much of an actual wheeler I just notched the stock member and tomorrow I'll set the engine back in with the mounts bolted up and determine how I'm gonna fill in the giant notch I made lol. I didn't want to take the engine out a dozen times so I went a little large to make sure i got it the first go around.

Sooooo hopefully I can get my son to take a good nap tomorrow so I can do all of that and make progress towards getting the engine set it place for good.

 

[HankScorpio]

Guessing you saw my reply to your other thread but happened to see in DrSmash build thread:

View attachment 491935

Same headers you linked above with factory sm465 external slave. Clearly shows the big difference between it and the Quickdraw brand setup. I think you could still get away with the Summit brand manifolds but it's your choice.

Where did you get that cool finned pto cover?

 

[jtrux]

Finished welding up the crossmember tonight so I'll paint it in the morning and hopefully get the engine set in place for the last time.

I still haven't ordered manifolds so I should do that tomorrow along with the fittings for fuel and clutch linkage.

 

[jtrux]

Engine is in its final resting place. Just need to bolt everything to it now. Fuel system will probably be the biggest pain since I'm pretty sure the tank is full or close. I might use the forks on my tractor to support the tank while I loosen everything up and then lower the heavy bastard down rather than pump the fuel out.

Not tomorrow but NEXT Fri I'd like to have it ready for exhaust then work on firing it up.

 

[CriticalAction]

Where did you get that cool finned pto cover?

That pic is from DrSmash build thread. I honestly didn't even notice that on there.

 

[jtrux]

Slowly getting the pieces put together. The next 2 days it should really start to come together.

 

[jtrux]

Starting to really come together. Knock, cam and oil pressure sensors installed along with steam port stuff and the intake is finally bolted down for good. Still need to hook up the vacuum lines for booster and valve covers but I have all the stuff to do it so that's on tomorrow's list.

Other things on tomorrow's list are flushing steering gear with the old pump before installing new PS pump and pulley. Then I'll get the new Sanden installed (just bolted up for now, charging will come later) and might even toss the radiator and fans in since there shouldn't be anything left on the front end at that point.

I also decided to just run that fancy Earls line the whole way from the tank. I bought the higher end stuff that they absolutely do not give away so I hope it holds up. I wanted SS braid but apparently this stuff is pretty stout and flexible so we will see.

I also have a exhaust manifold bolt where the threads feel a little gritty so I'm gonna remove the pass manifold tomorrow to chase the threads. I don't have gaskets installed yet anyways so they won't get final installed until this wknd.

Oh, and I'll get the clutch hooked up tomorrow and bled as well. Should be an eventful day.

 

[jtrux]

A few random pics from this morning. I'm currently shop poor so the work is getting done outside and today it's drizzling so work is limited.

I did manage to get the vacuum stuff all hooked up. Found a factory plastic line that goes from valve cover to top of intake and then ran a piece of 11/32" hose from the throttle body to the other valve cover. That particular hose doesn't look the best but I couldn't run a prebent hose since I'm at the mercy of the Holley throttle body and how they oriented the vacuum tit. Oh well. At least I managed to use to right size hose and don't have a crap ton of hose clamps all over the place.

I used a 90 off the back of the intake to run to the booster and had to neck the 1/2" booster line down to 3/8" at the booster to engage the factory check valve. Once again, doesn't look the prettiest but it works and it was all done "correctly".

That SD7 sure is pretty. Coupled with the current Vintage Air condenser, it should work well.

If the drizzle backs off I'm gonna go flush the steering box later and install the new PS pump so I can button the front end up. I also need to order the right belt which Kwik provided some part numbers for. If I get that far I'll drop the radiator in. Oh, and speaking of cooling system I picked up some 1/4" coolant hose at Napa so I can run the steam line to the extra radiator port. Just need to get the proper fitting to plumb into the radiator.

Throttle cable and bracket is coming in the next few days also so I'll work on getting that installed. I am using a GMT800 cable and it's supposed to work with a little magic so we will see what all that entails.

Not sure if I've said it but I'm hoping to have it on a trailer by next Fri to take to my buddies to get the ECM and wiring wrapped up for first fire. Hopefully I'll remember to put oil in it.

 

[CriticalAction]

A few random pics from this morning. I'm currently shop poor so the work is getting done outside and today it's drizzling so work is limited.

I did manage to get the vacuum stuff all hooked up. Found a factory plastic line that goes from valve cover to top of intake and then ran a piece of 11/32" hose from the throttle body to the other valve cover. That particular hose doesn't look the best but I couldn't run a prebent hose since I'm at the mercy of the Holley throttle body and how they oriented the vacuum tit. Oh well. At least I managed to use to right size hose and don't have a crap ton of hose clamps all over the place.

I used a 90 off the back of the intake to run to the booster and had to neck the 1/2" booster line down to 3/8" at the booster to engage the factory check valve. Once again, doesn't look the prettiest but it works and it was all done "correctly".

That SD7 sure is pretty. Coupled with the current Vintage Air condenser, it should work well.

If the drizzle backs off I'm gonna go flush the steering box later and install the new PS pump so I can button the front end up. I also need to order the right belt which Kwik provided some part numbers for. If I get that far I'll drop the radiator in. Oh, and speaking of cooling system I picked up some 1/4" coolant hose at Napa so I can run the steam line to the extra radiator port. Just need to get the proper fitting to plumb into the radiator.

Throttle cable and bracket is coming in the next few days also so I'll work on getting that installed. I am using a GMT800 cable and it's supposed to work with a little magic so we will see what all that entails.

Not sure if I've said it but I'm hoping to have it on a trailer by next Fri to take to my buddies to get the ECM and wiring wrapped up for first fire. Hopefully I'll remember to put oil in it.

View attachment 493099

View attachment 493100

View attachment 493101

View attachment 493102

View attachment 493103

I had the same trouble with the stupid vacuum line on the back. We ended up turning a brass barb fitting down in the lathe with a 90/barb attached to run the brakes. Might be something worth looking into for yourself.



I to start with ran the 1/4" coolant line to the radiator spare port but ended up switching it to the upper radiator hose. You can kinda see it in this photo. Worked very well in getting it as high as I could for bubble evacuation.



This one is running a factory throttle body so the valve cover line runs to the intake tube as you can see. However, I am ordering the same Holley throttle body as you for my K5. I saw another guy just capped the throttle body port. Not sure what is best practice...

Link to my 91' LS swap thread if your curious for other pics.

Bertha the Daily Driver/Weekend camper, 1991 V2500 GMC

Follow along as I continue to modify/improve my 1991 v2500 GMC Sub with a L96 and factory 4l80e for daily driver/weekend duties.

ck5.com

 

[jtrux]

Starting to look complete. Just need to toss belt on and front accessories are done.

Tomorrow I'll drop radiator in and get the fans installed as well. Getting close to Xmas time so doing lots of stuff with family most of the day so I wont get tons of stuff done but I should be able to at least get that going.

I'd also like to get the clutch bled and start working on installing the throttle cable. Those little things are what really eat up the time.

Plan is to get it fired next Sat. I better put the battery on the charger now cuz its probably dead.