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2 colors of paint out of 1 spray can

OK Aaron,

I finally found the post that you were talking about.

On the top that was faded so bad it was still slick. I thought it was gelcoat. It was slick enough that I thought that I should scuff it so paint would stick. On the sides, it was still gray, but dull and faded.I scuffed it too.

The metal on the door edge was a perfect match. Using the same can as I used on the door, the color was different, and the other 2 in that group of sprayings it was the same color. After 2 days I put 3 more coats on it over a period of 2 days. It was still the wrong color. Now I scuffed 2 small areas, about a square foot each, right beside each other. I primed 1 with a flat black primer and the other with a gray scratch filling primer. I found enough paint in 1 can to spray them both. I couldn't be sure, but they seemed to look better, but I couldn't be sure with it still wet.

If this doesn't do any better, I guess that I'm going to have to start guessing and try darker grays until I find one that is close enough. I really don't want to change the color, but if it can't be done any other way, I guess that I could try the silver that's the 2nd color on it. I did want to keep it original as possible, or at least looking original.

Oh well, can't win them all, g'nite, Paul
 
substrate color doesn't matter, if you put enough paint on.. unless you're doing a candy job, I don't care if it's black primer, or grey, paint color will end the same with the right amount of coating..

the fact you're trying to do this with rattle cans is a bit iffy to begin with as far as bodywork goes. is this a solid, or metallic you are spraying?
 
Good Mornin',

I realize that doing this with spray cans is pushing it. I thought that I was just going to do some touch ups like the door edge. Then I saw the top from above and thought that it would be on top so it wouldn't be seen by a normal higth person (I'm 5'6"). Where the top rolled over the edge, the difference was alot more than I thought. I'll stop there because I think you can figure the rest story out from there. Actually, if the color had been right, I wouldn't have a problem. The paint job on the top actually looks pretty good. No runs, orange peel, drips, can spit spots, etc.

This is supposed to be the better of this type of paint. It's Dura-Coat Perfect Match and it says that the color was certified by GM to be right, yea, I know and I've got a bridge for sale; cheap! I guess fiberglass doesn't count. I've never used a spray gun, but I don't really see how it could have been any easier or, for a virgin automotive painter, or any better.

The little bit of paint that I sprayed yesterday wasn't enough to tell very much, but I'll say that that little bit looked pretty good. I need another can to put some more coats on the test areas, to do some more repairs on the metal where it's a perfect match. I'm thinking about sanding (medium amount/heavy scuff) the primer, then spraying it on the 2 primer test spots.Then lightly sanding it and spraying the small area again with the dark gray, multiple coats to see if sealing it with regular (Dura-Coat brand) primer makes any difference. That primer is supposed to fill minor scratches, so it must be fairly thick. If that does it, great. If all of this doesn't do it, I'm going to try to see what Dura-Coat will do. I have all of my receipts and the people at O'Reiley's know me. That's one reason that I'm staying with this brand, it's $8 a can. The cans are 8 oz. each. I've bought 9 cans total (paint, primer, clear) so far. Those small cans don't go very far and you HAVE to shake the can almost constantly to keep the metallics in suspension evenly through the whole can.

I doubt if I do much today, as cold as it's supposed to stay, so any advice, suggestions, whatever will be appreciated.

Thanks Everybody, Paul (I really hope that this is understandable and makes sense!)
 
Carcinogen,

I'm reading "The Guide To Rust etc, etc. It has 345 pages. How far do you think that I should read? I'm on page 3 now?

Paul
 
Maybe I missed something, but why would the top match the doors anyway? The hardtop has already been re-painted? Because if there's some cheap rattle can stuff up there already it's possible it's dissolving a bit into the solvents in the new paint.
 
scpaul said:
Ryoken, Where can I get me a duck.
Click to expand...


if that's a duplicolor product, I've never been a fan.... not so much colors or anything, but the quality of the paint from them... throw in metallic in rattlecan form can be very difficult to match... solid color, no issue.. but metallic will change depending on your spray technique, whether far away and slow, close and fast, etc.....

even with real automotive paints, single stage metallic where always a nightmare due to that.. that's why when base/clear came out, it was a godsend to the collision biz...

also, for future reference, most real auto paint suppliers can make you any color and install it in a spray can..... it's not overly cheap, but it's a much better product and I believe they are fullsize cans.. Chief Brody has used some, maybe message him...


as to my mallard.. ;) http://deathproofduck.com/ he also sells thru eghey........

useless factoid.... the guys main source of income is making the Oscar trophies.... :pimp1:
 
Thanks,

I'm afraid that I'm in too deep to stop. The 2 sample areas with the primers don't look like they are starting any different than the coats when I started this mess.

Paul
 
I've been reading the Dupli-Color catalog and they repeatedly say that it is a perfect match for all factory colors. It even says fiberglass in several places. I've talked to them and even got it so that a pic was e-mailed to them for the guy to see. I've gotten a couple of suggestions, which I've tried. I'm not talking anything drastic, but there has to be someone higher up the food chain that I can talk to. I'm yet to get to anyone above him. He doesn't strike me as an automotive painter of any type at any time of his life. I know that I'm probably wasting my time, and don't expect anything very much. I'm thinking about asking to replace the 6 cans of paint that wouldn't match, no matter what I did, including his suggestions. I've got more than 6 cans of paint in it. Time, sandpaper, primers, etc. Does this sound reasonable?

I don't really want to, but, I'm thinking about sanding the top with something like 800, priming it with the high build primer, then spray it with the silver that's the other color on the truck. I forgot to put it in, but I'm planning on doing a small area to make sure that this color is going to stay the same. It's a good match on metal too, and I'm hoping that it will stay the same on the top. Keeping it the same colors is a moot point now that I have that nasty silver/gray on it and I'm not going to sand, wipe with chemicals, etc. to completely remove it.

One of the members was nice enough to put a pic of my truck on here. I wonder if I can get somebody with the computer skills to take that pic and change the color on the fiberglass and change it to the silver color that's on the truck. I know that it would be asking alot. I would really see what it would look like before I try to do it.

I had a rough time finding the pic. it's at

ck5/forums/threads/1990-gmc-1500-jimmy.328084/page6

I hope that I got that right.

Well, today's high temp is supposed to be in the 50's and the low in the 20's and it's supposed to be like that for a few days, so I won't be doing anything on the Jimmy.

If it's not too involved, would someone tell me how to get that pic as my avatar (?)

Well, Thanks everybody, Paul
 
if someone links the pic (I don't know where it is), I'll do the color change work...


remember, if you are going to sand for primer, you'll want FAR grittier than 800.... even a maroon scuffpad or bronze wool for the textured surface is in the 400 range... ideally on a smooth surface, primer likes about 180 to 220 grit.. 280 to 320 in a pinch.. it needs something to bite into.... 800 is like notebook paper...
 
Is this the pic
Picture1108161840_1.jpg


Paul if you want more posted just text them to me.
 
Thanks Ryoken, the address, I guess this is what you need, I hope so, I think it's in my last entry too:

ck5/forums/threads/1990-gmc-1500-jimmy.328084/page6

I appreciate the info info on doing the work too. Black and Decker made a sander that used 1/2 of a sheet of paper at a time. It will do short inline or real small orbital sanding. If I use that should I still go to coarser sand paper, say 600, and be careful that I don't get in too deep? I'm not through the gelcoat anywhere that I know of. If I get into the fiberglass by accident, what should I spray it with to re-seal the fiberglass? They also have a clear spray that supposedly makes the paint stick better. I was thinking about that for the fiberglass top where tree limbs scrape it alot to keep it from having the paint peeled off. The sander is what I was planning on using on the flat surfaces like the roof, and using the sanding sponges by hand for the rounded areas so that they would conform to the shape, and sand the rounded areas evenly. Does this sound reasonable?

I've been looking through the Dupli-Color catalog for a Dark gray that's so dark that when it lightens up on the fiberglass, it will be close to the Dark Metalic that I'm trying to get. I haven't seen any dark gray metalic colors from any manufacturer that would be dark enough to lighten up to the color that I want. I know that would have been a crapshoot if I had tried doing it that way. Instead, I think that I'm going to try to take the easy way out by using the Dura-Coat scratch filling primer, lightly sanding it with a fairly light sandpaper, then spray it with the silver that's on most of the truck. Provided that when I do a spray out on the fiberglass that it comes out the right color. That silver will be cooler in the summer even if it's not the original color. That's why I want to see a pic of it with that color, just in case it looks like crap.

I'm also trying to stay with the same brand of sprays so that I don't have to worry about the different brands not being compatible with each other.

If y'all can put up with me long enough, I might learn some more about how to work this thing. I'm also going to try to put that pic (only one on here and at that address) on the side with their name like most of the people have done. If it's very complicated, I'll just forget about it for now, it's not a big thing.

Thanks again Ryoken, Hopefully one day, I'll be able to try to return the favors, Paul
 
I just saw that you had posted the pic. It's not the best for seeing the side of it with the fiberglass being silver.

I went out and got some pics that are a little better, I'd forgotten that it was taped and papered up and I had put a white plastic dropcloth over it. If you would post it with a silver top back, I'd appreciate it. I also have a pic that shows the difference in the colors. If you like, my e-mail is [email protected] if there's a place that you would like me to send the pics. At your convienance of course.

Man, THANKS again, Paul

P.S. Thanks Disenough for putting it on here in the first place.
 
scpaul said:
Thanks Ryoken, the address, I guess this is what you need, I hope so, I think it's in my last entry too:

ck5/forums/threads/1990-gmc-1500-jimmy.328084/page6

I appreciate the info info on doing the work too. Black and Decker made a sander that used 1/2 of a sheet of paper at a time. It will do short inline or real small orbital sanding. If I use that should I still go to coarser sand paper, say 600, and be careful that I don't get in too deep? I'm not through the gelcoat anywhere that I know of. If I get into the fiberglass by accident, what should I spray it with to re-seal the fiberglass? They also have a clear spray that supposedly makes the paint stick better. I was thinking about that for the fiberglass top where tree limbs scrape it alot to keep it from having the paint peeled off. The sander is what I was planning on using on the flat surfaces like the roof, and using the sanding sponges by hand for the rounded areas so that they would conform to the shape, and sand the rounded areas evenly. Does this sound reasonable?

I've been looking through the Dupli-Color catalog for a Dark gray that's so dark that when it lightens up on the fiberglass, it will be close to the Dark Metalic that I'm trying to get. I haven't seen any dark gray metalic colors from any manufacturer that would be dark enough to lighten up to the color that I want. I know that would have been a crapshoot if I had tried doing it that way. Instead, I think that I'm going to try to take the easy way out by using the Dura-Coat scratch filling primer, lightly sanding it with a fairly light sandpaper, then spray it with the silver that's on most of the truck. Provided that when I do a spray out on the fiberglass that it comes out the right color. That silver will be cooler in the summer even if it's not the original color. That's why I want to see a pic of it with that color, just in case it looks like crap.

I'm also trying to stay with the same brand of sprays so that I don't have to worry about the different brands not being compatible with each other.

If y'all can put up with me long enough, I might learn some more about how to work this thing. I'm also going to try to put that pic (only one on here and at that address) on the side with their name like most of the people have done. If it's very complicated, I'll just forget about it for now, it's not a big thing.

Thanks again Ryoken, Hopefully one day, I'll be able to try to return the favors, Paul
Click to expand...


ok, gimme a bit here and I'll post a reply after I feed/deal with the pooch...
 
Ok, that's 1 of the places where I had to go, Wally World to get a 50Lb. bag of dog food. It's getting harder to get a decant dog food with having to take out a loan. Mine 2 dogs go through a 50 Lb. bag about every 2 to 2 1/2 weeks. An 8 yr. old 80 Lb. chocklot (Brown) Lab and a 65 Lb. Brindle Pit.

Thanks again,catch you shortly, Paul
 
scpaul said:
Thanks Ryoken, the address, I guess this is what you need, I hope so, I think it's in my last entry too:

ck5/forums/threads/1990-gmc-1500-jimmy.328084/page6

I appreciate the info info on doing the work too. Black and Decker made a sander that used 1/2 of a sheet of paper at a time. It will do short inline or real small orbital sanding. If I use that should I still go to coarser sand paper, say 600, and be careful that I don't get in too deep? I'm not through the gelcoat anywhere that I know of. If I get into the fiberglass by accident, what should I spray it with to re-seal the fiberglass? They also have a clear spray that supposedly makes the paint stick better. I was thinking about that for the fiberglass top where tree limbs scrape it alot to keep it from having the paint peeled off. The sander is what I was planning on using on the flat surfaces like the roof, and using the sanding sponges by hand for the rounded areas so that they would conform to the shape, and sand the rounded areas evenly. Does this sound reasonable?

I've been looking through the Dupli-Color catalog for a Dark gray that's so dark that when it lightens up on the fiberglass, it will be close to the Dark Metalic that I'm trying to get. I haven't seen any dark gray metalic colors from any manufacturer that would be dark enough to lighten up to the color that I want. I know that would have been a crapshoot if I had tried doing it that way. Instead, I think that I'm going to try to take the easy way out by using the Dura-Coat scratch filling primer, lightly sanding it with a fairly light sandpaper, then spray it with the silver that's on most of the truck. Provided that when I do a spray out on the fiberglass that it comes out the right color. That silver will be cooler in the summer even if it's not the original color. That's why I want to see a pic of it with that color, just in case it looks like crap.

I'm also trying to stay with the same brand of sprays so that I don't have to worry about the different brands not being compatible with each other.

If y'all can put up with me long enough, I might learn some more about how to work this thing. I'm also going to try to put that pic (only one on here and at that address) on the side with their name like most of the people have done. If it's very complicated, I'll just forget about it for now, it's not a big thing.

Thanks again Ryoken, Hopefully one day, I'll be able to try to return the favors, Paul
Click to expand...




ok, couple things... I'm sorry for not having paid super attention to all this, I don't spend much time in here anymore...... but I'm guessing, that you've been trying to retain the factory texture/pebble grain on the top... I guess I didn't make this clear earlier, you can't sand that with sandpaper.... your just gonna remove the texture... you need to use a scuffpad or bronze wool to dull/sand it.... sandpaper is just going to remove the pebble grain, and not really give you any kind of cut/etch to the main surface.. and again, grits like 600 and 800 are ONLY good for wetsanding finished paint for buffing.. paint will NOT stick properly to that... scuffpads are 400, which is ok for paint, but barely enough for primer to stick to...

the proper way to have done this, for a body guy, would have been to scuff the he!! out of it to put as much cut to it as possible.. than coat it with a primer sealer, not a primer filler, than rescuff and paint...

you could use adhesion promoter, but that opens other potential issues... and is kind of a Band-Aid response... it's more used on door jambs and plastic bumpers....

email me the pics at [email protected] and I'll do the photochopping and post them back up ASAP...
 
scpaul said:
Ok, that's 1 of the places where I had to go, Wally World to get a 50Lb. bag of dog food. It's getting harder to get a decant dog food with having to take out a loan. Mine 2 dogs go through a 50 Lb. bag about every 2 to 2 1/2 weeks. An 8 yr. old 80 Lb. chocklot (Brown) Lab and a 65 Lb. Brindle Pit.

Thanks again,catch you shortly, Paul
Click to expand...



try raw feeding... ;) I was spending $80+ a week for my GSD on Primal... now I grind my own and have cut that down to about $30 a week....
 
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