2 colors of paint out of 1 spray can

[scpaul]

I looked through the factory catalogs and it's the primer for the OEM Acrylic Lacquer paint which is the type that their product is.

If I use the resin and thin it so that it is absorbed better, what do I have to do for the resin to take the primer or is the sanding to remove the hairs enough. Is there a second part that I need to add to the resin? What do I use to thin the resin and what amounts of each. Would a second thinned resin coat help or should I do it a second time only if some of the fiberglass hairs are still there? Where can I get the resin, parts house, Lowes, Walmart, etc. and is there a brand that I do or don't want?

85, I know that anything's possible, but if there was any difference you couldn't tell it because of the different finish if nothing else and it came from the factory with the right paint codes on the window sticker. There's always the possibility that I'm a little color blind, my dad was with certain blues and greens and I'm not trying to be smart, my dad really was partially color blind.

I really do appreciate it, Paul

 

[ryoken]

it's just polyester resin.. it comes with a little tube of MEKP hardener... any auto parts place, Walmart, etc should have it.. brand doesn't matter, Evercoat, Bondo brand, whatever... may be referred to as marine resin, laminating resin, etc..

you can thin it with lacquer thinner, like 5, 10%... just enough to make it a bit more runny, as opposed to syrupy.... read the can for hardener amounts.. you'll normally be adding drops, poke a hole in the tube and squeeze lightly... it's a fine balance with the hardener, too little and it wont dry (big pain), too much hardener and it will dry VERY quickly.... that's why you want to work fast, make it a bit "hot" and get it on quick...... if it's cold, definitely go with a fair bit of hardener, summer heat makes it kick WAY faster...

just brush it back and forth a bunch, and it should wet out the hairs fine.. definitely shouldn't have to do it again.. your just trying to make the hairs hard again.. sand it so there is no shiney spots and smooth, than prime... you can sand it with anything from 80 to 180... prime, etc...

 

[scpaul]

Thanks Ryoken

 

[scpaul]

I found some small divits on the sides while sanding and priming. They look like imperfections from when the top was made. I've already primed them with the scratch filling primer. Can I just use the straight resin to repair them and do I need to get the primer out of them or is using something like a wire brush to roughen down in them. I have sprayed them several times thinking that the primer was going to fill them. I may need to put more than 1 layer of resin on them so that the resin doesn't sag. If this is OK, how long should I wait before I apply the second layer? I'm planning to apply it with a plastic blade like they apply Bondo with. If it's too much trouble, I'll just paint over them. I think that they were filled with resin before all of the sanding so I probably made them show up. them.

I think that I'm nit-picking too much, but while I have the materials and I'm right there. I also don't know if they could cause a problem later. I feel so dumb, but I've never messed with glass at all, or even seen it done.

Thanks again for all the help everybody, Paul

P.S. I said that I'd probably be a pain.

 

[ryoken]

you CANNOT put polyester resin on top of the primer.... you can either remove/rough those areas up with like 80 grit, resin..

OR you can go get a tube of glazing putty, most auto parts places should have it.... put a skim coat of that on top of the primer, sand with 220 wet, reprime, carry-on...

 

[scpaul]

Ok, I'm glad that you told me, but that's why I asked. The biggest area is 1" wide and 4" long and maybe 1/32 to 1/16" deep before I messed with it. There's a few smaller areas, but none deeper.

I've got a fair amount of the 80 grit and the since area isn't very big. If I sand the bad spots and use a small stiff wire brush to get into the bottoms of the depressions to clean out the primer completely and scuff the bottom of them, then, wipe the areas down with Lacquer Thinner good, do you think that I'll be OK?

Do you think that the putty is better or with the depth of the depressions as shallow as they are, if I have to use more than 1 coat so it won't sag, how long should I wait? It says on the package that it's sandable in 2 hours. Would I be better to scuff it sooner or later if I need a second coat, or do you think that I'm not going to have to use a second if I use it straight for these small repairs since they are on the side?

I could leave them alone, especially since I've heard that lighter colors help hide minor imperfections, but I don't really want to because when you look down the side in the light, it'll probably stick out.

Thanks, Paul