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2 colors of paint out of 1 spray can

eh, sorry, inside puppy lingo.. ;) GSD = german shepherd dog and Primal is a commercial raw dog food... http://www.primalpetfoods.com/



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Nice "Puppy", is he a long haired Sheperd? I'm having problems with my phone. I'm going to send a pic that shows the color of the truck and paint on metal. The pic with the truck is the one that I'd like to see with the blue/gray fiberglass in the same lighter silver as the other part of the truck. That will leave the dark gray band around the truck.

Thanks, try to send shortly, Paul
 
I'll try later, I've sent pics and messages to a friends wife and a stranger. How about send the number to my e-mail and then I'll try to send them to you later.

Paul.
 
he is technically a standard hair GSD (his parents where both westminser dog show types) but somehow he ended with that long hair around the neck and head...

I use a flip phone, so I can't receive texts.. well, I can, but it wont do me any good as I can't download them to my computer.... just e-mail them as attachments...
 
I'm going to have to get a friend to email them to me. I've got a flip phone too.

Thanks, It might take a day or two, but I'll get them to you, Paul

P.S. What's that saying, something about a monkey and a football?
 
Well, I might have gotten some where. Yesterday I scuffed a decent size area of about 2 sq. ft. and primed part with gray, another with flat black and part I just scuffed. I sprayed 3 coats on each area today, waited a little while then shot it with clear and a spot on the front of the hood where a rock got it and rusted.

I did all of them, the hood had been sanded and painted for a week or more. I looked this evening and all of the areas looked pretty good. I think that because of the primer and lack of that I'm going to have 3 shades that are all going to be close.

Thanks, good night, Paul
 
Does Anyone know where I can find what factory colors were offered for a 1991 K5 Blazer?
 
I'm Paul, the guy that started this string. As far as factory colors, Dupli-Color matched the color on the inset panel on the side of my truck. It's hard to see unless you know where to look, But when I went to paint the fiberglass top, the color out of the same can was EXTREMELY DIFFERENT. I've spent money on a total of 12 cans of their "Dupli-Color Perfect Match paint, 8 of which are a Dark Metalic Gray. It matched the repair on metal perfectly, but it looks like a simi-gloss Battleship Gray on the fiberglass. I've been talking with them for about a week and 1/2 and the the best that they have agreed to do is if I send then copies of my receipts that they will send me 2 cans of paint.

They keep telling me that it's a chemical reaction from the fiberglass. I can believe that,but they have no answers, suggestions, or suggested procedures to make the color spray the color that it should be on the fiberglass. In 1 area after they said that the fiberglass was the problem I put 3 more coats and the color didn't change at all. I thought that if it's contamination from the fiberglass that the ORIGINAL coat of their scratch filling primer then 3 more coats of their gray should work because surely the primer and the 3 coats of their paint should have sealed the fiberglass. The last coat (the 6th coat of paint) was the same simi-gloss Battleship Gray that I had with the first 2 coats.

I should mention that the paint is $7.99/ 8 oz. can.

If you use a Dupli-Color product, you might want to try a small area that can easily be covered if their paint doesn't match. In the conversation, I was told that they couldn't guarantee their guaranteed match paint to match. In some literature that they sent me, it says "Ideal for use on all OEM paint surfaces". I agree that there's something different about the fiberglass, but I would think that they would have a department that deals with real world problems. Their people were pretty nice but I don't think that the 2 different people on the complaint/trouble line have ever painted any part of a vehicle in their life. The real world is alot different than the labratory conditions that they test some of their products in.

In closing I'll say that the paint, where it matched was great, but I can't be the first person to repaint the fiberglass top of a C/K Blazer or Jimmy 1500 that is over 10 years old.

If I fall while getting down from this stump, somebody come get me. I might not be dead, yet. Have a good one, Paul
 
Abram, ryoken,

I really do appreciate the color charts and reading. I guess that I've got my "weekend homework assignment". Since I wasn't getting anywhere with the Dupli-Color help line, and I've already got Dupli-Color products on the shell, I think that I'm going to stay with Dupli-Color brand this time. I've heard of reactions between different brands that may not show up for years and I don't want to have to sand all of the Dupli-Color stuff off to be sure. It may be overkill, but that's my style, ask any of my friends. That's also why when I build a 20 foot deer stand, they don't worry about using it no matter what they weigh.

I scuffed an area on the side of the shell and primed 1 part of it with Dupli-color scratch filling gray, another with a flat black primer. The third area I just scuffed and let the off color Dupli-Color #83 Gunmetal Metallic act as my primer. After I did a spray out on each primer and the off color gray, I let them dry and sprayed them with their clear on the fiberglass. There isn't very much difference, almost none, between any of them. It's close enough that if I couldn't see where I put the tape to separate the three, I'd be hard pressed to tell any difference in them.

I think what I'm going to do, if it sounds OK to y'all, is use a random orbital sander with about 600 ( other suggestions?) then come back with something like 800. Since the top has up to 6 layers of paint and 2 layers of scratch filling gray primer in some areas where I was testing, I'm thinking about using a rough enough sand paper to start with, so that if there's any areas that didn't bond to the prior coat properly, that they will show up. Do you think that 600 is coarse enough? I'm expecting to clog the sandpaper pretty fast, especially on the first pass. I've also thought of doing a third sanding with a little finer paper for the last pass due to the paint being kind of thin and I don't want to see heavy sanding scratches in the final product after I spray it with their clear. How many coats of the clear do you suggest and what grit should I scuff the clear with before I spray another coat of clear?

One other thing; I had some paper come loose and I got some overspray on the paint. Doesn't look too bad. What is the best way to remove it? Maybe wet sand lightly with 2000 paper or is there a easier way?

I found this color pattern in a Jimmy brochure that someone sent me. Oddly enough, I didn't find the color pattern that I had on it in the brochure. I'm going to look again.

If y'all have any suggestions, cautions, advice, I'll gladly listen.

Thanks again, Paul
 
For light overspray, I would start with a clay bar. If it's on real automotive paint, you can clean off the rattle-can stuff with acetone. Just don't leave it on for long.

You're planning to take the texture out of the top? I don't know how you can sand out layers of paint but leave the texture. If you end up with a bunch of layers of paint showing after sanding, you'll have to seal the whole thing before painting. Otherwise, it may start lifting at any/all of those edges.
 
yup, that's why I keep mentioning scuffpads and bronze wool.. the second you take a mechanical sander to it, you'll be sanding the texture out before anything else...
 
I'll have to look again, but when I originally scuffed it, I noticed that it had a texture but, don't remember it being that bad. The scotchgard type pads have 3 colors, red, green, and what was the third? Was there any more grits? What is the order of the (coarseness) grit? I've never seen any bronze wool, where do I get that, Lowes or a paint store? I've got some steel wool but it's not coarse enough. I've got 3-0 and 4-0. Would 1-0 steel wool work if I can't find bronze? I've also got some of the super dense scotchgard wheels for a drill. Could they be used on their side lightly, slowly turning and quickly moving it. Not enough to sand/grind anything down, just scuff it pretty good. I've had my left shoulder repaired 3x and my right once. That's why I keep trying to get away with as little effort as possible and I'm LAZY! I've got to find another step ladder, as short as I am a 4 foot stepladder isn't quite enough. I've thought of removing the running boards (real usable ones) but I'd have to get a running start to get in and remember, it hasn't been lifted any yet.

I found some 1" solid steel spacers (they might have thicker) to put under the rear springs. I think that they come with the spring pins and I reuse my original u-bolts, any opinions?

It's Dura-Coat Perfect Automotive spray paint. It is just a light area. I had thought about something like wet sanding with 1800 or 2000 grit then waxing. If I can wipe it with acetone that's even better. You mention the paint lifting at the edges, should I try to get sandpaper or something else where the paint ends and the trim begins to improve adhesion at the edges?

Now that I'm not messing with matching the gray any more, it should go a little faster once I get the paint.

And by the way, Thanks to Y'all again, Paul
 
the tops come from the factory textured.... if you are trying to retain that look, a mechanical sander will cause issues, smooth and rough areas.. unless you remove all the texture and make it smooth, which plenty of people do.. it's just not a "factory" look...... if you are going to use 3M scuffpads, you want the maroon, they are equal to about 400 grit...

https://www.amazon.com/Scuff-Pads-Scotch-Brite-Brand/dp/B00MBPT0F8


you can use course steel wool too, just have to be aware that remnants that get wet can rust.. that's why bronze is preferred..


do not sand between any clear coats.. you really shouldn't be waiting for them to fully dry anyway... spray, let it tack up till it's "thumb-printy on the masking" than overcoat.. usually like 15 to 20 minutes between coats... rattlecans can take a bit longer...
 
Thanks, Maroon it is. Let each coat of clear get about half dry,"finger printy", as one of my instructors of mine puts it.

Would a sponge behind the scotch brite pad help it to follow the top's texture or would it be too much?

Another instructor said, "Since it's rattle can auto paint on real auto paint, I can wipe it off with acetone"

Should lightly scuff between coats of paint or just let it get very tacky?

The ALUMINUM trim around the side windows is faded badly. Do you know of a way to get it back to black. I'm afraid that a spray would peel. I think my dad used to etch aluminum with vinegar? I don't remember from there. He probably painted it with something. Is there anyway to do something that looks I anodized it? (a chemical that turns aluminum black?)

I'm going to drop the tank anyway. Would it cause any problems if I were to spray it with bed liner, especially the bottom? My pick up has a plastic guard under the tank, I don't remember there being one on the Jimmy. If needed (probably), what's the best thing to slosh around to clean any scum or other stuff out of the tank? The Evapo-Rust says that it's good to use in a tank to stop and keep it from rusting. I'm going to try it and just make sure that it's dry inside. With our extreme weather changes, we have alot of problems with gas going bad and getting condensation in tanks, etc. It made me go to plastic outboard tanks a long time ago because of rust.

Going to get some stuff for this, Thank Y'all again, Paul
 
no need for a sponge, you can fold them in 1/2 to make it a bit thicker and "cushiony"..

be VERY aware of using acetone or lacquer thinner to remove the paint, once you start that, you are committed to removing it all.. no stopping "midlayer"......and to be honest, it may be the best way to go for you... start it from the beginning with your "now learned" lessons... sounds like you have quite a build up here and there... when we do stuff like that, it's get a gallon and a couple rolls of paper towels.. you can even start with thinner on a scuffpad to speed up the removal before towels... keep going till nothing comes off on the towels... being it's gel under it, you wont hurt that..

no need to scuff between any coats, the tack coat method applies to it all.... even between paint and clear....
 
Since the top color matches the body, it's been painted before. The texture may have taken down already.

Did I miss the reason for not posting pictures of the new paint and topper?
 
Blue,

That's a strange thing. According to the '90 brochure the paint pattern that I have wasn't available, but we have owned it since it was brand new. My father-in-law gave it to my wife with about 600 miles on it and a free title. It's been the color pattern that it is since it rolled out of the dealership. I didn't know thatmyself until I noticed it in the brochure, I can't explain it either.

The overspray is just a light dusting. I can polish/buff it off easy enough if you think that acetone is going to be that bad on the clear coat.

Back in this thread there's a pic that I think it was ryoken put up for me. All I have is a flip phone and don't know if it will send to my e-mail and I don't know how. I've got some more pics that I took the other day and was having problems with the phone # that was given to me to send them to for them to be posted. I'll try to do it tomorrow. Maybe with the paper pulled back so that you can see all of the different shades of gray and my progress with matching the silver on the top.

It's in thread #33. I just went back and looked. It's not a very good angle to see the top, but that's my fault. I've got some better pics that show it better that I'll try to get up.

Thanks, I'll talk w/y'all soon, Paul
 
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