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2 colors of paint out of 1 spray can
- Thread starter scpaul
- Start date
scpaul
1/2 ton status
Thanks Blue. The gray on the fiberglass is the same as the gray on the inset. The gap at the door's edge has been partially repaired. My wife had let it rub on a brick wall in a carport. See how good it matches the gray on the metal. The bad gray on the fiberglass is as many as 2 coats of scratch filling primer and 6 coats of paint total, 2 sets of 3 coats each. I can't see how the fiberglass is affecting the paint, but it must be, it did too good on the door edge. That edge doesn't have the final sanding or the last coats of clear. I said it before, I'd hate to have to get up every morning knowing that auto painting was what I had to do. It's just not for me. My hat's off to those that can not only do it, but do it good!
Thanks y'all, Paul
Thanks y'all, Paul
Maybe the color on the top doesn't really match the sheet metal to begin with. It was just close and you assumed they matched. The metal is probably original and the topper was somebody's attempt at color match.
scpaul
1/2 ton status
We have owned since it was brand new and rolled off of the dealers lot. It may have been a little but not much. Definately not the off anywhere near that much. It looked like a simi-gloss battleship gray.
scpaul
1/2 ton status
I'll try to get some better pics when the sun isn't as bad. It's worse than the pics show. I need to get the tape off anyway, it's been on it 2 weeks and got wet 4 or 5 times. I don't want to have to fight the tape getting it off.
Thanks, Paul
Thanks, Paul
Maybe the dealership chose to color match some tops? Hopefully somebody who knows more about this can chime in.
I'm just suggesting that all the various preps you tried eliminate a lot of interaction variables. If a color does match the steel and doesn't match the topper that suggests the two don't match.
Pretty cool to be the original owner! Not many of us have that claim.
I'm just suggesting that all the various preps you tried eliminate a lot of interaction variables. If a color does match the steel and doesn't match the topper that suggests the two don't match.
Pretty cool to be the original owner! Not many of us have that claim.
scpaul
1/2 ton status
ZooMad75 was nice enough to look up the truck by the Vin. Number.
Where would I look on theoriginal window sticker for something that might tell me about the fiberglass top being different than any color scheme listed as options for that year? I'm starting to wonder if this is something that the dealer did for some reason, but I don't think it would be color matching if that's what I think you mean. I could see why someone with a Jimmy that had the whole top being dark gray would want to get the dealer to trade tops. The silver top would really help keep it cooler.
ZooMad75 put the detail sheet from GM on here. I'm going to try to find it.
The name of the forum is "The Garage", page #12, The name is "Need Help Figuring Out Exact Specs '90 Jimmy 1500", and the entry is #22. I may have not used the right names of the sections, but I think that you will be able to find it so you can see if there's anything on it about the top being a different color. I'm going to look too, but I probably wouldn't know it if I saw it.
I hope those pics came out ok. If you need something else let me know.
Thanks, Paul
Where would I look on theoriginal window sticker for something that might tell me about the fiberglass top being different than any color scheme listed as options for that year? I'm starting to wonder if this is something that the dealer did for some reason, but I don't think it would be color matching if that's what I think you mean. I could see why someone with a Jimmy that had the whole top being dark gray would want to get the dealer to trade tops. The silver top would really help keep it cooler.
ZooMad75 put the detail sheet from GM on here. I'm going to try to find it.
The name of the forum is "The Garage", page #12, The name is "Need Help Figuring Out Exact Specs '90 Jimmy 1500", and the entry is #22. I may have not used the right names of the sections, but I think that you will be able to find it so you can see if there's anything on it about the top being a different color. I'm going to look too, but I probably wouldn't know it if I saw it.
I hope those pics came out ok. If you need something else let me know.
Thanks, Paul
have you coated the whole top?
scpaul
1/2 ton status
At the end of the options list, if I'm reading it right then it looks like he ordered it that way.
LTT6 Slate Gray Cus Clo Rcl Bkt
83 Gray Top (Fiberglass top ?)
96 Quicksilver Met 83 Gray (2 Color body paint ?)
I still haven't seen this style of paint listed in the brochure.
Paul
LTT6 Slate Gray Cus Clo Rcl Bkt
83 Gray Top (Fiberglass top ?)
96 Quicksilver Met 83 Gray (2 Color body paint ?)
I still haven't seen this style of paint listed in the brochure.
Paul
scpaul
1/2 ton status
Ryoken,
The whole thing has been covered, but to varying degrees. I'll try to remember the number of coats, primers and clears.
The whole thing has 6 coats of dark gray and, parts have more done to them. Part has 2 coats of scratch filling gray primer, a small area has some black primer, another small area has had the 6 layers of the off color gray sanded lightly with 800 grit and 2 more coats of the dark gray. The 3 small areas that have the gray, black and just scuffed with 800 grit have also got 2 coats of clear. I think that's all the combinations.
It looks like I'm going to go ahead with spraying the whole thing with the 1990 paint # 96 Quicksilver Metallic. I really wanted to keep it all original, but I'm tired of fighting to match the 1990 # 83 gray, when it changes color on the fiberglass.
I went yesterday and bought most of the supplies to do it in silver. I've still got to get the paint that Dura-Coat is refunding me, 2 whole cans. That covers the extra paint that I put on because of the things that they were telling me.
Because the tape has been on it so long and gotten wet a few times, I'm going to remove the tape and paper and I'll do it again after I get the prep work done again. Man I hate tape and papering in prep for painting, especially by myself and outside with a breeze.
In a little bit, Paul
The whole thing has been covered, but to varying degrees. I'll try to remember the number of coats, primers and clears.
The whole thing has 6 coats of dark gray and, parts have more done to them. Part has 2 coats of scratch filling gray primer, a small area has some black primer, another small area has had the 6 layers of the off color gray sanded lightly with 800 grit and 2 more coats of the dark gray. The 3 small areas that have the gray, black and just scuffed with 800 grit have also got 2 coats of clear. I think that's all the combinations.
It looks like I'm going to go ahead with spraying the whole thing with the 1990 paint # 96 Quicksilver Metallic. I really wanted to keep it all original, but I'm tired of fighting to match the 1990 # 83 gray, when it changes color on the fiberglass.
I went yesterday and bought most of the supplies to do it in silver. I've still got to get the paint that Dura-Coat is refunding me, 2 whole cans. That covers the extra paint that I put on because of the things that they were telling me.
Because the tape has been on it so long and gotten wet a few times, I'm going to remove the tape and paper and I'll do it again after I get the prep work done again. Man I hate tape and papering in prep for painting, especially by myself and outside with a breeze.
In a little bit, Paul
scpaul
1/2 ton status
I think that I asked this earlier, but I'm not sure. Does anyone know of a way to get the aluminum trim around the rear side windows back to black? I don't really want to paint it because even after etching it, I don't think that paint will stay on it with limbs and brush rubbing on it. A lot of things that are sold say "Not for use on aluminum" or something to that effect. Does anyone know of something like this that the reaction to aluminum is turning it black? I know how to etch it. It would really be nice to find an etching solution that turns the metal black.
They are making a chrome paint that looks pretty good.From what I've seen, it actually looks like chrome, not the old flat silver that it used to look. I guess I could go that route if I had to, but I'd rather keep it black.
Thanks everybody, Paul
They are making a chrome paint that looks pretty good.From what I've seen, it actually looks like chrome, not the old flat silver that it used to look. I guess I could go that route if I had to, but I'd rather keep it black.
Thanks everybody, Paul
if you want to paint it, you'll want to find some zinc chromate... getting difficult to come by these days...
scpaul
1/2 ton status
ryoken,
I've heard of Zinc Chromate, but don't know where. Is it an etching compound or is it a colorant? Reading what I can, it looks like it says that it's both. A colored primer with an etching chemical in it. Since it has a primer in it, doesn't that mean it's a paint prep. If I wind up painting it, that will be needed then. I found where Duracoat is selling a Black Chrome kit that sounds like the black is translucent and you spray a clear sealer over it. It's still a coating and I'd prefer it to be more like anodized if possible.
They also have a primer that sounds like the zinc chromate , but out of the 7 colors only yellow says zinc chromate, the other 6 are heavy duty anti-corrosion. They do sell most or all of their products in professional size containers. The are part of "Sherwin Williams" as are several other brands.
I'm trying to get a chip chart with all of the auto silvers. I'd like to have one just a shade or two darker. Where I did a repair on the front of the hood, there's a slight difference in color. On the top you wouldn't be able to see it, but with it sprayed on the other silver you can see a little difference and I've got about 4 small repairs to make.
I went yesterday to get supplies at Lowes and they didn't have any red scotchguard, they did have some light blue that were labeled coarse, so I got a couple of them. I'm going to look for some red ones too. These might be coarser than the red. They feel pretty abrasive. The overspray is coming off pretty easy.
It looks like I'm going to have to take out a loan just to buy all of the rubber seals that I need. I'd like to get this stuff done so that I can start on trying to crank it.
Was it you that said that you had a GMC grill emblem. If so, I'd like to talk with you about it. They don't sell the letters for that one. They sell the assy. only and want about 120 or 30 for it. All I need is the reflective part of the M. I think it was the "C" I found. If it's not you, then whoever it is please get with me, maybe somebody needs a "C".
They're saying that rain is coming in tonight and tomorrow. We have had some strange weather recently. It was almost 80* the other day and a couple of nights before/after it was in the teens in the morning.
Thanks, Paul
I've heard of Zinc Chromate, but don't know where. Is it an etching compound or is it a colorant? Reading what I can, it looks like it says that it's both. A colored primer with an etching chemical in it. Since it has a primer in it, doesn't that mean it's a paint prep. If I wind up painting it, that will be needed then. I found where Duracoat is selling a Black Chrome kit that sounds like the black is translucent and you spray a clear sealer over it. It's still a coating and I'd prefer it to be more like anodized if possible.
They also have a primer that sounds like the zinc chromate , but out of the 7 colors only yellow says zinc chromate, the other 6 are heavy duty anti-corrosion. They do sell most or all of their products in professional size containers. The are part of "Sherwin Williams" as are several other brands.
I'm trying to get a chip chart with all of the auto silvers. I'd like to have one just a shade or two darker. Where I did a repair on the front of the hood, there's a slight difference in color. On the top you wouldn't be able to see it, but with it sprayed on the other silver you can see a little difference and I've got about 4 small repairs to make.
I went yesterday to get supplies at Lowes and they didn't have any red scotchguard, they did have some light blue that were labeled coarse, so I got a couple of them. I'm going to look for some red ones too. These might be coarser than the red. They feel pretty abrasive. The overspray is coming off pretty easy.
It looks like I'm going to have to take out a loan just to buy all of the rubber seals that I need. I'd like to get this stuff done so that I can start on trying to crank it.
Was it you that said that you had a GMC grill emblem. If so, I'd like to talk with you about it. They don't sell the letters for that one. They sell the assy. only and want about 120 or 30 for it. All I need is the reflective part of the M. I think it was the "C" I found. If it's not you, then whoever it is please get with me, maybe somebody needs a "C".
They're saying that rain is coming in tonight and tomorrow. We have had some strange weather recently. It was almost 80* the other day and a couple of nights before/after it was in the teens in the morning.
Thanks, Paul
disenough
Registered Member
I told you I have a GMC from an 89 Jimmy grill.You can have it.
scpaul
1/2 ton status
I do appreciate it but, I've go to give you something. Those things aren't cheap and you're going to have to figure out how I get it. I'd really forgot that you're in Rock Hill. Hold on to it and I'll get with you in the next couple of days, there's no hurry. I've taken my night meds so I'm going to bed, but I'mm PM you tomorrow. I really do appreciate it. But we do have to work something out, I'll worry about that when we talk.
Thanks All, G'nite, Paul
Thanks All, G'nite, Paul
scpaul
1/2 ton status
Well,I started scuffing the paint that was the wrong color and it started coming off in places. It never went to the glass but it wasn't anything that I'd want to put paint on and expect it to stay. My shoulders really didn't need any more exercise, so I took a sanding disk holder for a drill but the pad for the sand paper was way too stiff. I took the plastic top from a butter container and made the sanding disc backer out of it. I tried it with 800 and didn't do anything, 600 next.. nothing. I finally tried some 80 and it worked real well. It's removing any loose paint and with the real flexible backing leaves the surface about like it was with the 800, just my shoulders feel better. I got both sides and the back sanded and primed today. I don't know if it's going to be warm enough tomorrow. It didn't get over 60* until after noon and by then the sun was on it. I did 1 side first just to see how it was going to work. It seemed real good, a whole lot better than what I had. Then I did the other side and the rear. All I've got left is the flat part of the roof. If it doesn't work, do they make a back for the cab so it becomes a real short body pick up, just kidding. The top is the worst part. If what I'm doing works, what would you suggest for the top since it's the worst. It has some glass real small splinters. I learned not to put my arm down on it. I don't think that I'm going to mess with it for a day or two, depending how bad they miss the weather this time.
I gave up on trying to talk with "Duplicolor", they were too busy telling me that it wasn't their paint because the repair on the door was so good. If I'd been trying to blame them, I sure wouldn't have told them about the repair on the door if I were trying to blame their paint. I just wanted some answers. Because they told me that the glass wasn't sealed and was contaminating the paint. I sanded it and put 3 more coats on it and it didn't change a thing. They're going to send me 2 cans of paint to pay me back for all the time trouble, work and the 3 cans that I used. If this doesn't work, I'm either going to take it to a boat company, there's several not too far away, and get it done or see if my friends body shop wants to try it. I don't like bothering him with something this small.
Thanks, Paul
I gave up on trying to talk with "Duplicolor", they were too busy telling me that it wasn't their paint because the repair on the door was so good. If I'd been trying to blame them, I sure wouldn't have told them about the repair on the door if I were trying to blame their paint. I just wanted some answers. Because they told me that the glass wasn't sealed and was contaminating the paint. I sanded it and put 3 more coats on it and it didn't change a thing. They're going to send me 2 cans of paint to pay me back for all the time trouble, work and the 3 cans that I used. If this doesn't work, I'm either going to take it to a boat company, there's several not too far away, and get it done or see if my friends body shop wants to try it. I don't like bothering him with something this small.
Thanks, Paul
sorry, again.. it has NOTHING to do with it being fiberglass.... or needing a "boat" place to do it.. I gel/paint boats for a living... vettes are fiberglass and are painted in bodyshops all the time without ANY difference..
it's the fact you are trying paint METALLIC paint from a rattle can... if you where painting solid, fire engine red, or corvette yellow, you wouldn't be having nearly the troubles...
it's the fact you are trying paint METALLIC paint from a rattle can... if you where painting solid, fire engine red, or corvette yellow, you wouldn't be having nearly the troubles...
scpaul
1/2 ton status
You don't know my wife. She drove it for several years and if it were a different color, she would have said something. We have some old pics where it's in the background. It's far enough away that if it were different, you could see it. The biggest thing was that the texture and less gloss are what you can see. The color was real close.
I took some of the paper and tape off because it had been wet/damp a few times and I didn't want to have problems getting the tape off. It came off pretty good, very little gum or tape ripping up into small pieces. I'm glad that I took it off when I did. I didn't untape the side windows, or so I thought because they had been kept alot drier than the rest. When I removed the paper, it lifted some spots in the tape and I got overspray under the tape and on the rubber around the side windows. I'm planning on wiping it off with a solvent when I'm finished. Which one would you suggest or does it make that much difference?
I've just got the very top to do now. Between the sun and my scuffing, there's some fine fiberglass material sticking up. I laid my arm on it, won't do that again. How would you suggest that I deal with that and which materials. I really hope that there's a way where I don't have to mess with fiberglass supplies. It's the area that's actually pretty flat. I don't believe that the paint sticking is going to be a problem. When I was checking what effect the different primers had on the color and just scuffing the paint that didn't match made, they all were VERY close to exactly the same.
Once I get this primer done, is there any problem with letting it sit until the weather gets more predictable? The gray primer looks like it should be a good base for the silver metallic.
Thanks for Y'all's patience and help, Paul
I took some of the paper and tape off because it had been wet/damp a few times and I didn't want to have problems getting the tape off. It came off pretty good, very little gum or tape ripping up into small pieces. I'm glad that I took it off when I did. I didn't untape the side windows, or so I thought because they had been kept alot drier than the rest. When I removed the paper, it lifted some spots in the tape and I got overspray under the tape and on the rubber around the side windows. I'm planning on wiping it off with a solvent when I'm finished. Which one would you suggest or does it make that much difference?
I've just got the very top to do now. Between the sun and my scuffing, there's some fine fiberglass material sticking up. I laid my arm on it, won't do that again. How would you suggest that I deal with that and which materials. I really hope that there's a way where I don't have to mess with fiberglass supplies. It's the area that's actually pretty flat. I don't believe that the paint sticking is going to be a problem. When I was checking what effect the different primers had on the color and just scuffing the paint that didn't match made, they all were VERY close to exactly the same.
Once I get this primer done, is there any problem with letting it sit until the weather gets more predictable? The gray primer looks like it should be a good base for the silver metallic.
Thanks for Y'all's patience and help, Paul
I like lacquer thinner for solvent for overspray, glue removal...... acetone is a bit stronger, but nastier to work with..
if you have fiberglass hair's sticking up, you really should "wet that out" with thinned resin, than sand it and prime.. but you can try to just douche it heavy with primer, than sand it... your trying to saturate/bury the hairs... resin is no big, qrt is like $15, put a little thinner in it so it soaks into the hair better, brush it on, let it dry, sand smooth...
most primers are fine.. the only kind that absorbs water and can become an issue is lacquer primer....... even than, on fiberglass it isn't usually a big deal... but you more than likely are using an enamel or urethane primer...... just have to watch if they sit out in the sun too long, they oxidize/chalk up and will need fresh sanding and possibly an overcoat before paint... usually you have a couple months minimum even with rattlecan stuff.... real 2 part stuff can be left outside for yr's....
if you have fiberglass hair's sticking up, you really should "wet that out" with thinned resin, than sand it and prime.. but you can try to just douche it heavy with primer, than sand it... your trying to saturate/bury the hairs... resin is no big, qrt is like $15, put a little thinner in it so it soaks into the hair better, brush it on, let it dry, sand smooth...
most primers are fine.. the only kind that absorbs water and can become an issue is lacquer primer....... even than, on fiberglass it isn't usually a big deal... but you more than likely are using an enamel or urethane primer...... just have to watch if they sit out in the sun too long, they oxidize/chalk up and will need fresh sanding and possibly an overcoat before paint... usually you have a couple months minimum even with rattlecan stuff.... real 2 part stuff can be left outside for yr's....
