2000 Buick Sleeper build - 2nd engine trashed!

[Stomis]

Oil pump is attached to the crank. So I'm thinking to pack the pump full of vaseline before attaching the front cover, then fill the oil filter with oil and spin the motor without sparkplugs, using the starter motor.

I saw a cool picture of how they prime ford mod motors. They take a weed killer spray bottle, the pressure kind you pump and have a trigger for and they plumb it to an oil galley port and pump the entire block up, probably while turning it over by hand. Just a good thought, as spinning it alone dry can take quite some time.

 

[Blue85]

I could probably adapt the brake vacuum bleeder I built to pressurize oil with shop air. Then put a hose barb fitting on an oil filter. If it would take oil I could add most of the 5 quarts I need that way.

 

[FAB454]

Got some goodies today:

The aluminum coolant elbows are a minor, but good "upgrade"

 

[Babaganoosh]

Sadly even at the dealer I work at they pull spark and fuel and turn they key.

 

[Stomis]

Dont worry it cant ever be as bad as the 3.8 JK I did with my buddy where he put the wrong oil pump housing gasket on and it just knocked for like 10 seconds straight cause we thought the pressure would come up

 

[Babaganoosh]

Dont worry it cant ever be as bad as the 3.8 JK I did with my buddy where he put the wrong oil pump housing gasket on and it just knocked for like 10 seconds straight cause we thought the pressure would come up

Definitely takes the cake, I'm watching this build and think it's really cool. Always wanted to see what a built motor would do in one of these cars.

 

[Blue85]

Here's the good lower intake gaskets from GM. The plastic ones always leak eventually.

This is the machined intake manifold - the opening is enlarged to match the intercooler.

Now you see how the intercooler sits on the intake. I think the core is actually a heater core from some car.

This is how the blower sits on top.

 

[Stomis]

Very cool. The concept of them putting a roots style (I know its technically not but still) blower on a FWD car is still funny to me.

 

[Blue85]

I'm wondering why I can't just remove the oil pressure switch from the filter adapter and thread something in there to inject oil. It wouldn't prime the pump, but it should circulate oil through the engine. Then when I've injected most of 5 quarts, put the rest in the oil filter, then spin the engine.

 

[454Sub]

You can. You can prime it through any hole in the oil gallery. Just make sure you leave a small puddle of oil in each rocker to lube the bearings incase the oil cant be pushed all the way up to them.

 

[Blue85]

I was able to get oil from 3 pushrods before my mason jar pressure vessel warped the lid. Should I be able to build pressure with the pump just by spinning with the starter motor? Or will the engine have to start?

 

[Cili]

That should work just find. Disable the ignition and crank it for 2 or 3 10 second periods.

 

[454Sub]

Do not disable just the ignition or you will flood the cylinders with fuel and possibly wash the rings out or fill the crankcase with super special extra lightweight racing oil.

 

[Blue85]

Don't worry, I have no fuel and no wiring - it's still on the engine stand. I took it up to 8 quarts of oil and it finally started to come out of the pushrods. There are some air bubbles coming up too, probably from leaving my lifters half empty, but at least the pump is primed. I'll drain a few quarts out before I really fire it.

Made some progress today. The engine is basically assembled. I cheated on belts by putting on an undersize idler for the supercharger belt. When I get a longer belt I'll swap it back - this thing is super tight or I might just run it (the belt is for the 2.8" pulley and my new one is 3.1"). The A/C and PS systems in the car are sealed, with compressor and pump laying in the engine compartment, so this is just a mockup, but I need to get all the clearances right as the intercooler raises the supercharger almost 2.5". I had to mount the ignition module a little different to clear the belt, but easy peasey.

 

[Blue85]

I got this adapter plate 2nd hand. It has both bolt patterns in it to let the Northstar throttle body bolt to the M90 (Gen 3) supercharger.

I opened up the inlet before I had the throttle body or the adapter, and fortunately everything lines up:

It seems a PO had discarded the alternator brace (since the intercooler changes the fit), so I am making a new one. You can also see how I mounted and connected the purge solenoid.

So it's almost ready to drop in:

I still need to come up with intake ducting, though.

 

[Blue85]

Update:

 

[Blue85]

I only had 2 torque converter bolts, but found these at a local place. They do clear everything, but should I worry about the thicker bolt head based on TC expansion or anything?

I managed to get the MAF mounted to the throttle body with parts on hand, but still need to build the rest of the air intake. Off the shelf intakes are like $200, but I think I can come up with something for much less. I may just block off an area underhood to force most of the air to come in through the fender hole. It's possible to put a filter inside the fender, but I don't know if it's worth the hassle. The car was running an "HAI", but I really want to come up with a "CAI". If intake temps don't matter, why am I running an intercooler anyway? Well, I guess if the intercooler was awesome enough the intake temp wouldn't matter - but why push my luck?

 

[Blue85]

I working on hooking everything up now. The main harness is about half done and and power cables are bolted to starter and block. Made a bracket for the new throttle to hold the throttle and cruise control cables:

Got the front header installed. I'm certain the back will be much harder.

 

[Blue85]

I never liked the looks of these cut fuel rails. I took them apart and have now decided to go a different direction for this.

Not dying is important. I should have pics tomorrow of a better plan.

 

[Stomis]

Ewww wtf is going on there?!