2000 GMC SAS: Hydro assist assistance

[Cruz89K5]

what was the point of grounding the wire? i may have missed it...but i swapped a manual in place of my electric shift and I havent had any issues with low range and anything else.

To be honest I'm just going by what I'm reading. I know with the TCCM plugged in I've got the Service 4wd light on with the 205 in. And with my VSS in the tailhousing I know I'll have problems with the transfer case in low without the truck knowing its in low.

What do you do when yours is in low? Does your manual case have any plugs or way to tell the truck it is in low range?

 

[greatwhitez71]

Well, mines got a 241 tcase in it now. I spliced in the vss and it works fine. When I catch low the truck doesn't know it's in low. Only thing I notice is that the speedo doubles over...it shifts kinda hard but nothing I would really not expect. I'm sure I could figure out how to make the factory knob trick the truck when in low range but I don't have any real reason too...

But!.. My trucks also got the 6l90e and it has a separated computer from the truck so it's a possibility that it will function just fine...

 

[Cruz89K5]

Well, mines got a 241 tcase in it now. I spliced in the vss and it works fine. When I catch low the truck doesn't know it's in low. Only thing I notice is that the speedo doubles over...it shifts kinda hard but nothing I would really not expect. I'm sure I could figure out how to make the factory knob trick the truck when in low range but I don't have any real reason too...

But!.. My trucks also got the 6l90e and it has a separated computer from the truck so it's a possibility that it will function just fine...

Thanks for the information! I'll give it a try and see how it reacts when I get the drivelines in. The only reason I wanted the truck to know it was in low was I had read the 4L80 will go into limp mode when it sees the different speed with the output being in low. I could deal with the abnormal shifting and the incorrect speedometer reading if it meant I dont have to flip a switch or push a button every time I want low range.

 

[greatwhitez71]

Let us know how it goes man. mine really doesnt shift too abnormal, just shifts really firm

 

[Avery4jc]

Cool build! I didn't see it the first time around, keep us updated.

 

[Cruz89K5]

Cool build! I didn't see it the first time around, keep us updated.

I actually have a question for you. I love your rig, but I always wondered if you had a problem breaking back windows without a bed? I'm really enjoying the narrow width of just the bed floor and the visibility. But I'm scared to death I'm going to have a projectile launch itself thru the window.

 

[Avery4jc]

Nope, I've never busted a back window. I crack/chip my front a lot though.
Mine is just frame width, not even bed width and I agree, it's handy for visibility.

 

[Cruz89K5]

So I called Tom Wood's about driveshafts. They said they couldnt build a rear that would spin highway speeds reliably. And they said they probably wouldnt be able to retube my current front shaft. So I called high angle. Jess covered more in five minutes than the guys at Wood's did in 15. Their front shafts were about $50 bucks in price apart. Jess said he could build a two piece rear that would run at highway speeds all day for almost double the price of Wood's. As much as I hate to spend the money I'm probably going to give my business to High Angle and just do it once. So the trucks on hold until I get the rest of the money together to buy the more expensive shafts from High Angle. That's where its at now. I've got some odds and ends to tie up, but its getting closer.

 

[79rustyk10]

Awesome buld man.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Jesse's a good guy. Used to be a member here and known for his good, and innovative, work.

 

[supersize75k5]

Thanks for the information! I'll give it a try and see how it reacts when I get the drivelines in. The only reason I wanted the truck to know it was in low was I had read the 4L80 will go into limp mode when it sees the different speed with the output being in low. I could deal with the abnormal shifting and the incorrect speedometer reading if it meant I dont have to flip a switch or push a button every time I want low range.

Just saw this build,


few things,

1. I pulled the plugs and removed the 4x4 control module all together..I also was able to reach in there and not pull the dash apart lol

2. for the pin out that needs to be grounded, while driving my 06 if that wire was not grounded out the truck seemed to only be in 1st or second gear and would not shift while the t-case was in low. I grounded the wire and it worked as it should.

3rd. Trevor at wfo concepts has some nice frame plates and shock hoops for these year trucks, check em out.

awesome truck!

 

[Cruz89K5]

Just saw this build,


few things,

1. I pulled the plugs and removed the 4x4 control module all together..I also was able to reach in there and not pull the dash apart lol

2. for the pin out that needs to be grounded, while driving my 06 if that wire was not grounded out the truck seemed to only be in 1st or second gear and would not shift while the t-case was in low. I grounded the wire and it worked as it should.

3rd. Trevor at wfo concepts has some nice frame plates and shock hoops for these year trucks, check em out.

awesome truck!

I can manually shift the gears without the driveshafts in to see that it is in fact shifting. But without being able to drive it it's hard to tell if it's shifting right or not at all. Worst case scenario I've got the box unplugged and the plug in an easy to get to place. Thanks for the compliment, your truck is part of the reason I chose to build this thing over the K5.

 

[supersize75k5]

I can manually shift the gears without the driveshafts in to see that it is in fact shifting. But without being able to drive it it's hard to tell if it's shifting right or not at all. Worst case scenario I've got the box unplugged and the plug in an easy to get to place. Thanks for the compliment, your truck is part of the reason I chose to build this thing over the K5.

 

[Cruz89K5]

So not much tech, just mounted an old toolbox I picked up out of a trashcan at my old job and some ammo cans from the back of the K5 along with my high lift. Used some factory shock bolts tapped into and tack welded to the bed floor for the jack. I plan to mount a spare front shaft and a set of axle shafts on the right side of the bed in pvc pipes. I also left room for a spare in the center. I need to find a good ax and a small shovel to mount as well. Mounted a light from a quad as a reverse light, and wired my trailer LED tail lights into the trailer plug so I would have turn/brake together.

Anyway, pictures from my phone, as usual.

 

[Cruz89K5]

I found some money in the couch cushions, so hopefully I'll get HAD to start building my shafts tomorrow. Hopefully some updates to follow very soon!

 

[Cruz89K5]

Got shafts ordered today. Rear from high angle, front from woods. I ran a front woods shaft in my K5 at more angle than this truck has, obviously with less travel, and it held up fine. Jess was wanting to build something really expensive that might have clearance issues, so I figure I'd take a risk and run a woods again. I may have to strap it and bump stop it to keep it from binding, but I'm not that worried about it right now. Woods shaft should be here next week, high angle should be here in two weeks. I can hardly wait.

 

[Cruz89K5]

So I was doing some reading and I had remembered I never checked my caster after the axle swap. It seems my pinion is rolled down pretty far. Where is the best place to measure? I've got a measurement off of the bolts on the non steering knuckle, but I dont think its right. Caster is supposed to be around 6*, correct? My number is way off of that. Any tips on where to measure? It steers pretty good, road manners are fine, but I'd like to be able to move my pinion up a little if possible.

 

[rob h]

I just went thru this when i did the sas on my 2500hd. If i remember correctly you stick an angle finder on top of the knuckle. 5-6 degrees is where a stock 60 sits, your shooting for for driveability and so it steers correctly. Which tho might throw your pinion way off depending on how the axle sits. Prob will have to have a happy medium to where it steers ok and the pinion is close to what you need.

Worst case is set your caster angle to 5-6 degrees and cut and turn the c's to rotate the pinion to point at the t-case. I didnt have to do this but i also used a high pinion axle.




Other guys who know more about will chime in...

 

[Cruz89K5]

I just went thru this when i did the sas on my 2500hd. If i remember correctly you stick an angle finder on top of the knuckle. 5-6 degrees is where a stock 60 sits, your shooting for for driveability and so it steers correctly. Which tho might throw your pinion way off depending on how the axle sits. Prob will have to have a happy medium to where it steers ok and the pinion is close to what you need.

Worst case is set your caster angle to 5-6 degrees and cut and turn the c's to rotate the pinion to point at the t-case. I didnt have to do this but i also used a high pinion axle.




Other guys who know more about will chime in...

I stuck mine across the two bolts on the kingpin cap. Maybe I need a new angle finder, but mine was in the 20* range . I'm assuming negative because the lower is forward of the upper. It drives fine, but could be better. I'm thinking I can mill an angle into the front zero rates down and roll the axle forward and the pinion up a bit.

 

[supersize75k5]

I stuck mine across the two bolts on the kingpin cap. Maybe I need a new angle finder, but mine was in the 20* range . I'm assuming negative because the lower is forward of the upper. It drives fine, but could be better. I'm thinking I can mill an angle into the front zero rates down and roll the axle forward and the pinion up a bit.

that would not drive very well at all