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2000 GMC SAS: Hydro assist assistance
- Thread starter Cruz89K5
- Start date
that would not drive very well at all
It actually drives fine, which is what leads me to believe I'm not measuring in the right place. My girlfriend has driven it, I've put over 500 miles on it around town and a little highway. It does have an odd wheel profile when it turns, like its leaning weird. It returns to center fine, and it's been up to nearly 80 on the highway. It doesnt wander or drift any more than my 07 dodge with worn out track bar bushings, so not bad for a truck on big boggers with soft springs and no sway bar. My steering distance has been limited, but I figured that was from an incorrect length pitman or steering arm.
Any more recommendations on where to measure? I'm going to buy a new angle finder since I cant find the one I used for the blazer build. I've been using the level on my phone, built the whole truck that way, but this being so far off has me wondering. I might make a post in the garage in the next few days so it gets more exposure.
No one else chimed in on where I said to measure off of. I hope im telling you right. You said you have almost 20 degrees, i cant see how it drives ok that far off. Are you going to add a track back to it to keep it from wandering..?
edit:
Measure off of the c's on the axle instead of the steering arm. That should tell you exactly where your at. Also as im thinking as long as the lower king pin is out infront of the upper it will still drive ok just not right where it should be(same idea as bicycle forks). Prob either shim it up, mill it like you said, use shorter shackles or cut and turn it...last one tho would be my last resort. Im not sure how large of an angle they make the shims, you might have to have em custom made but thats alot of angle.
Maybe shawn will comment or even add to this....
edit:
Measure off of the c's on the axle instead of the steering arm. That should tell you exactly where your at. Also as im thinking as long as the lower king pin is out infront of the upper it will still drive ok just not right where it should be(same idea as bicycle forks). Prob either shim it up, mill it like you said, use shorter shackles or cut and turn it...last one tho would be my last resort. Im not sure how large of an angle they make the shims, you might have to have em custom made but thats alot of angle.
Maybe shawn will comment or even add to this....
Last edited:
fubar_k5
1/2 ton status
If im thinking about it right i can kind of see how you got that much angle if those are sky hangers made to go with there whole sas kit there front handers are a 6 inch drop. so with your universal hangers tucked up tight against the frame is probaly whats causing for the your angle to be pointed down as far as it is. im planning on sas my 99 this spring liked your idea for keeping it low.
I've suspected this as well. Thats why I planned to check it to begin with. I dont think the zero rates are helping, they visually moved the pinion down after pushing the axle forward. I like to keep my projects mobile so I dont get too burnt out working on them and stuff like that got overlooked. I'm going to go out tonight and mess with it a little bit. I might order some shims to see if I can get it where it needs to be and mill the zero rates from that. I dont think running a shim on the front seems very safe.
Shims on the front has been done alot before and also has been milling an angle on a zero rate. Mainly since they bolt in the pack, shims tho are 3 piece so they clamp evenly on the passenger side on a chevy 60. I never seen them over 8 degrees ...
It looks to be about 19-20* on the C's. DIY's got a 10* shim that should get it closer. I'll probably use the shims to see how close it is and mill it if it needs more. I've got the axle unbolted and sitting on jack stands ready for the springs to come out. Thanks for the information!
So I put an order in for the 10* shims from DIY last night. This good looking thing showed up today, too bad I cant put it in with the front end unbolted. Hopefully the rear shaft will be here soon.
Man... I like this truck!
Giving me bad thoughts about my 02 3500 GMC single cab...
Giving me bad thoughts about my 02 3500 GMC single cab...
The problem with downtravel is the axle is only 1" from the ground before it comes free of the leaf springs with my jackstands.
If you cant tell, I'm bored and ready to get this thing done.
If you cant tell, I'm bored and ready to get this thing done.
So I'm not sure what I was expecting when I ordered a 10* shim, but I wasnt expecting it to be an inch thick. I've got it between my zero rate and the springs, but I dont like it. Its just temporary until I figure out a solution. I only need the zero rates to move the axle forward, I dont need the extra height. However 10* set my driveline angle to around 16* which is nice, and my castor to around 8*. I put the front shaft in and took it for a spin around the neighborhood. Drives about the same. I might have to have the driveshaft retubed, it looks a little short since I rolled the pinion up.
Any ideas on moving the axle forward and keeping the shim? I'm thinking some custom springs and a different center pin location in the future, but for short term anyone got ideas?
Any ideas on moving the axle forward and keeping the shim? I'm thinking some custom springs and a different center pin location in the future, but for short term anyone got ideas?
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
Im going to be a pain.
The right way to do this is to cut the welds and rotate your inner c's, now that said I have not had to do that on either of my solid axle swaps but they are both high pinion ford axles.
There are methods to do it online if you search "rotate inner c dana 60 and pirate4x4 or here. Its not a fun job but with thin cut off wheels, a torch and a welder you can be on your way to a proper axle in a weekend.
I do not like the shim set up what so ever, yes it works but to me its hack and when I had a 10 degree on my buggy I hated it. In your case its also screwing you with the zero rate.
You're not being a pain, I appreciate any and every comment and suggestion on this build, so thanks for that.
Turning the C's is the thought I've had several times but I'm not sure my welding ability is up to the task. I dont know anyone around here that's done it that could give me a hand, all of the local trucks are hacked mud trucks.
I dont see the shim as much different than having a zero rate being that its bolted into the pack. I believe the zero rate and shim from DIY are made of the same material. That being said I dont like them together. I didnt like it when I was doing it, and I dont like it now. I think I wouldnt have even messed with it if my pinion angle hadnt been so poor, I could have lived with the castor being that far off and driving the way it did.
There is a welding shop that just opened up down the road, I may stop in and see if he's got any experience doing a job like that.
Shawns idea is about the best one with turning the c's. Is there enough meat on the shim since you said its so thick to drill it so can move the axle forward and do away with the zero rate..?...then your an inch lower where u were..?
Now that's if ur ok with the shim angles...
Now that's if ur ok with the shim angles...
I ordered some zero rates with a 5* cut on them. Worked out great. I also have the front moved 1.5" forward, which needs to be considered when ordering the degree. If you move it an inch, it needs to be cut different.
The shims are almost as thick as the zero rates in the front, and taper down to around 1/8" in the back, judging from memory. I could use the shim as a zero rate if there was more meat on the back end, but there isnt room for the center pin bolt to go through the shim. Its too thin to put a bolt through and be recessed. If I could drill a hole in the spring pads and use another center pin to hold the shim to the pack it would work, but I'm not sure if drilling the pad on the center section is possible.
The angle the shim provided is great. I really believe its a combination of my shackle hangers being designed for the front drop bracket from SKY and the zero rate moving the axle forward causing the weird caster. The axle might be slightly rolled up, but it looks closer to factory location to me.
See if how much thicker you need the shim and have one made drilled for your axle moved ahead. If you can get away with the extra thickness then you might get away with not doing the c's. Its just an idea.... then its one piece bolted in the pack. For sure diy4x can help you with that. Just sucks to spend more cash. Even if its another 1/4 or 3/8 thick its better that an inch.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
Check the shop out, ill see if I can find the thread that went it but any competent welder can do it. You would save a bit of cash doing the grinding and rotating yourself however.
There is also likely a mobil welder in your area. Or for the cost, buy a welder and get someone to help you that can use it
Check the shop out, ill see if I can find the thread that went it but any competent welder can do it. You would save a bit of cash doing the grinding and rotating yourself however.
There is also likely a mobil welder in your area. Or for the cost, buy a welder and get someone to help you that can use it
I managed to find a few threads on the subject. I think I could handle the welding, the image in my head was people cutting the tubes down and narrowing the axle. I dont have a torch to provide the heat would be the only element I lack. And the motivation, of course.
I'm thinking what will probably happen short term is I'll call up DIY and see about some custom shims like rob suggested. I'll get the bugs worked out of it around the house and at some local spots and call up alcan for a set of springs with a different center pin location to get rid of the need for a zero rate/ezinch shim deal. When I get some new springs I'll bite the bullet and turn the c's. I've been looking for an excuse to buy a torch.
I hate to half ass anything, its not the way I normally do things. However my DD needs a few days of work and I need this truck done to drive while I've got it apart. All of my other junk doesnt run either
.
I took it for a drive a few miles up the dirt road today. Shaft feels good and smooth up to 40. Didnt care to go much faster, I've got the shocks off of it again. I've got some of my turning radius back after rolling the axle back up. I'm about to pull the gooseneck back into the driveway to check clearance and travel on the front shaft.
The transmission doesnt like low range. It will wait until about 3500 to shift out of first, and half of the time it slips and acts like its hunting for a gear, the other half of the time it shifts quick and hard enough to spin the front tires on the gravel. I'm going to give it time to see if it will learn or something, if not I'll ground the TCCM wire and have it tuned to reflect the new low range ratio. No leaks or noise from the 205, speedometer works and in high range the truck drives like normal, so I'm pretty satisfied with that.
Still no rear shaft. I know its the holiday season and all, but I'm getting anxious. I still have to make a mount for the carrier bearing and get the angles right.
The transmission doesnt like low range. It will wait until about 3500 to shift out of first, and half of the time it slips and acts like its hunting for a gear, the other half of the time it shifts quick and hard enough to spin the front tires on the gravel. I'm going to give it time to see if it will learn or something, if not I'll ground the TCCM wire and have it tuned to reflect the new low range ratio. No leaks or noise from the 205, speedometer works and in high range the truck drives like normal, so I'm pretty satisfied with that.
Still no rear shaft. I know its the holiday season and all, but I'm getting anxious. I still have to make a mount for the carrier bearing and get the angles right.
