I do the relief cut then an air hammer with a chisel
CK5
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2000 GMT400 CREW CAB SFA SWAP-The Warden: Fuel leak fixed and awaiting surgery…
- Thread starter GWeakland620
- Start date
The ultimate goal for this truck is tow duty/family camping trips/small offroad adventures.
you can usually cut right thru the metal bushing with a sawzall where the spring end wraps back and touches the flat..the little space makes starting the cut easier.
Cool, I will get the relief cut and then start with the hammer and chisel. My compressor is to small to run air tools.
Made the relief cut with a sawzall. They practically fell out. New bushings in and ready to bolt up. Time to pull the ifs crap and start putting in the axle.
Woohoo!
Wait, weren't you just complaining that you don't get to drive this thing enough? Perhaps yanking the front wheels off isn't the fastest answer to this complaint.
Well, the sooner I get the old out and the new in, I get to put my new tires on. These current ones are junk and vibrate like crazy.
Well this is annoying. My kit is missing the shackle bushings and sleeves 
I have the grease able bolts...
I have the grease able bolts...
Minor detail
I did halfway mock them up tonight.
Rock sliders for your lower control arms!
Are you going spring under? Or is this thing going to be a bunch taller than it is now?
My goodness, do you ever pay attention? Lol
We had a discussion about the front ride height. It will be a couple inches over stock.
The spring should collapse quite a bit.
Yes, I do sometimes pay attention. I remember the discussion in question. I remember you saying that it would be equal or slightly higher than stock. Those springs, with an axle under them, look like you're going to gain a whole lot more than that. The springs won't compress that much, will they?
Making an estimation from that one crummy, angled shot, it looks like the bottom of the unladen spring is no more than one inch above the bottom of the rim. Assuming a 16" rim (8" radius to that lip, about in line with the spring), and a 3" axle tube, the center of that wheel is 8" + 1.5" = 9.5" above the new unsprung hub position. That's alot, and spring compression isn't going to be that much unless you go negative.
Taken from a different approach, if I draw a line between the end points of your spring, it looks like it clips the top of your lower ball joint. I can't see your shackle angle, so I don't know how much upward movement the rear end of the spring will have when it compresses, but it's not going to be a whole lot. If you compressed the spring all the way flat, it would still be a little bit below this imaginary line (by the thickness of the leaves and the offset of the bushings). But the line is already several inches below the center of the hub. And the axle will add at least 1.5" of height (probably more like 2" now that I think about it).
Bottom line, unless that picture has me mislead, you're gaining more than a couple of inches with that new setup. That's why I asked about a spring-under setup. I just can't see getting close to stock height otherwise.
Take some measurements of your current fender heights and see how far wrong I am when the smoke clears.
You just wait and see Mr. Math 
You just wait and see Mr. Math
I already have my alibi lined up. Your angled shot is crummy enough to leave significant uncertainty. If something goes wrong with my prediction, I'll just blame it on the confusion of trying to perform estimated math on a single 2D angled representation of your complex suspension geometry.
I'd ask you to take some real measurements and make a real prediction (vs. my guesswork), but I'm picking up a subtle hint that you have no interest in such complicated things.
I don't math a lot. I can math, but it usually sets off smoke alarms.
Bushings and sleeves are in the mail!!!
Again, huge thanks to ORD for their customer service and awesome product!
Again, huge thanks to ORD for their customer service and awesome product!
Just ordered a lot of stuff.
All new steering components for the Ferd 60. Ball joints, tierods, drag link, and even sway bar links(going to try and figure out how to still run one...). Also ordered new unit bearings to send off to my machinist to give them the correct bolt pattern.
Getting closer!!!
All new steering components for the Ferd 60. Ball joints, tierods, drag link, and even sway bar links(going to try and figure out how to still run one...). Also ordered new unit bearings to send off to my machinist to give them the correct bolt pattern.
Getting closer!!!
