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2000 GMT400 CREW CAB SFA SWAP-The Warden: Fuel leak fixed and awaiting surgery…

The ultimate goal for this truck is tow duty/family camping trips/small offroad adventures.
Truck has 166k. Any way for me to tell if they are original?
Behavior is the tell tale. Dust, grime, and any indication of service are secondary - return line condition, fuel line clamps still in place, etc.

The only way to really know is to pull them and get them tested.

David
 
I'd say at this point, me only getting 14mpg and having this start issue, it wouldn't hurt to just go ahead and replace them.

That being said. I will be doing the typical 6.5 tune/updates to make a healthy running/performing hauler. Is there any benefit or need to run larger injectors? I will not be running a bigger turbo. Just a mild tune and the #9 resistor with a manual WG.
 
Is there any benefit or need to run larger injectors? I will not be running a bigger turbo. Just a mild tune and the #9 resistor with a manual WG.
I prefer new 2200psi short bodies from Stanadyne in Italy. High quality factory replacements are all you need with a stock DS4.

You can get yours rebuilt, too, and maybe save a few bucks. Just find an authorized shop - that's why I have a preference for M&D.

David
 
I can here the lift pump working. Just replaced fuel filter on Saturday. IP is only about 20k miles old, I was told. I'm sure injectors are orig, as the GP controller was.

I was also thinking a fuel issue. Being the injectors are more than likely orig. What's a good route to go for replacements?

Did the recent filter swap change any of the symptoms?

I use M&D Distributors in Dallas. Picked up a set of new short bodies a coupe of years ago for about $75ea. Kennedy Diesel is a very reliable source for quality parts.

How many miles on your current set of injectors? My experience is that they're functional but ineffecient beyond 125k.

David

I haven't gotten around to changing mine (140k), but it's on my "someday" list. My dad had 6.5 injectors rebuilt and we were quite happy with the results. Curious to see how much difference Greg sees. :popcorn:
 
Did the recent filter swap change any of the symptoms?



I haven't gotten around to changing mine (140k), but it's on my "someday" list. My dad had 6.5 injectors rebuilt and we were quite happy with the results. Curious to see how much difference Greg sees. :popcorn:
The fuel filter I pulled was black. The new one was white. Not sure if it was really that dirty or not. No real big differences noticed yet with the filter change. I would like upper teens on mpg with the new injectors, but we shall see.

Only sparks in this thread will be from a grinder :grind::deal:
 
New injectors came in today.

What are some tips for changing these out? Anything special? I've heard removing the RH inner fender and turbo are a huge help.

Also, do I really need the injector socket?
 
New injectors came in today.

What are some tips for changing these out? Anything special? I've heard removing the RH inner fender and turbo are a huge help.

Also, do I really need the injector socket?
Outstanding.

I've changed them without pulling an inner fender, but have always removed the turbo. Plan on replacing the return lines at the same time since the original ones tend to crack and break.

The special socket eases the process significantly and is well worth the expense. I've done it both ways, and will always recommend getting the right tool.

Other than that, go slow and take you time. Keep the nozzles covered and clean until you're ready to install the lines.

David
 
Outstanding.

I've changed them without pulling an inner fender, but have always removed the turbo. Plan on replacing the return lines at the same time since the original ones tend to crack and break.

The special socket eases the process significantly and is well worth the expense. I've done it both ways, and will always recommend getting the right tool.

Other than that, go slow and take you time. Keep the nozzles covered and clean until you're ready to install the lines.

David

Is the socket something the local parts store would have? Or should I have ordered on online when I ordered the injectors?

Also, great info. Sounds a lot like the info I have read so far. I have my backup Jeep to drive while this is down. So I plan on working a few hours at a time in the evenings this week. Nice and slow, with nothing to rush me. Also going to allow myself enough time to address any other situations or problems once in there.
 
Is the socket something the local parts store would have? Or should I have ordered on online when I ordered the injectors?

Also, great info. Sounds a lot like the info I have read so far. I have my backup Jeep to drive while this is down. So I plan on working a few hours at a time in the evenings this week. Nice and slow, with nothing to rush me. Also going to allow myself enough time to address any other situations or problems once in there.
I have the Snap On tool my dad bought in the 80s, but I've seen them on eBay and Amazon before. Never seen them in a parts store, and would be surprised if I did.

Great plan. The odd side is a good place to start since it has (what I think is) the easiest access. Get your process down, then pull the turbo and do the even side.

David
 
A local place might have the socket but more then likely you'll have to order it. I got mine through Summit, was fairly cheap and works good for how much I'll use it. Even with the socket injectors 4 and 6 can be little more time consuming to get out.

I bought a length of the return line hose off of ebay. Was like 20 bucks for 6 foot piece.
 
Well, harbor freight had an injector socket set and wouldn't you know it only went up to 29mm and these injectors are 30mm. Ordered the socket from SSDieselsupply.com which is where I got my injector kit. Should have listened to them as got it at the same time. Oh well, ya live and learn.

As for return lines, the kit from SS came with new ones and all the gaskets needed. Pretty sweet setup.
 
Cool beans. I installed my set with a normal socket, but I was doing a head job and had the manifolds already off. Come to think of it, I may have installed them on the bench. That's gotta be the easiest way to do it, just rip the heads off and do it on the bench.

The headache of getting to injectors/GPs/return lines/wiring underneath the turbo is exactly the reason that my turbine setup is still sitting in a box. I just haven't wanted the turbine badly enough to put up with the headache that the cramped geometry causes.

One thing you might do to make your life slightly easier. Replace one bank of injectors and then go through the engine starting procedure. The engine will start up on the 4 good cylinders and then bleed itself on the other side. Then do the other side and repeat. Not a perfect process, and I have only done each way once or twice (so I don't claim to be an expert here). But it was a whole lot faster bleeding one bank than when I had to bleed them both out simultaneously. That was a lot of stressful cranking and time spent waiting for the starter to cool.


Doing the easy side first is also a decent idea if you haven't done this before. The turbo side, while very doable, is not my idea of fun.
 
Thanks Ethan :bow:

I read a hand full of guys that did the easy side, then started the truck, but I was unsure why. That makes a lot of sense now.
 
Thanks Ethan :bow:

I read a hand full of guys that did the easy side, then started the truck, but I was unsure why. That makes a lot of sense now.

Lots of things make sense...once you figure them out the hard way. :wink1: :haha:

Glad you can learn from my experiences. And, since I'm not particularly experienced here, you might find a way that's better yet. :)

:popcorn:
 

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