Truck has 166k. Any way for me to tell if they are original?
Behavior is the tell tale. Dust, grime, and any indication of service are secondary - return line condition, fuel line clamps still in place, etc.Truck has 166k. Any way for me to tell if they are original?
I prefer new 2200psi short bodies from Stanadyne in Italy. High quality factory replacements are all you need with a stock DS4.Is there any benefit or need to run larger injectors? I will not be running a bigger turbo. Just a mild tune and the #9 resistor with a manual WG.
I can here the lift pump working. Just replaced fuel filter on Saturday. IP is only about 20k miles old, I was told. I'm sure injectors are orig, as the GP controller was.
I was also thinking a fuel issue. Being the injectors are more than likely orig. What's a good route to go for replacements?
I use M&D Distributors in Dallas. Picked up a set of new short bodies a coupe of years ago for about $75ea. Kennedy Diesel is a very reliable source for quality parts.
How many miles on your current set of injectors? My experience is that they're functional but ineffecient beyond 125k.
David

I do see these which spark my interest quite a bit...
http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/p270_ssdiesel_fuel_miser_injector_kit.html


The fuel filter I pulled was black. The new one was white. Not sure if it was really that dirty or not. No real big differences noticed yet with the filter change. I would like upper teens on mpg with the new injectors, but we shall see.Did the recent filter swap change any of the symptoms?
I haven't gotten around to changing mine (140k), but it's on my "someday" list. My dad had 6.5 injectors rebuilt and we were quite happy with the results. Curious to see how much difference Greg sees.![]()


Outstanding.New injectors came in today.
What are some tips for changing these out? Anything special? I've heard removing the RH inner fender and turbo are a huge help.
Also, do I really need the injector socket?
Outstanding.
I've changed them without pulling an inner fender, but have always removed the turbo. Plan on replacing the return lines at the same time since the original ones tend to crack and break.
The special socket eases the process significantly and is well worth the expense. I've done it both ways, and will always recommend getting the right tool.
Other than that, go slow and take you time. Keep the nozzles covered and clean until you're ready to install the lines.
David
I have the Snap On tool my dad bought in the 80s, but I've seen them on eBay and Amazon before. Never seen them in a parts store, and would be surprised if I did.Is the socket something the local parts store would have? Or should I have ordered on online when I ordered the injectors?
Also, great info. Sounds a lot like the info I have read so far. I have my backup Jeep to drive while this is down. So I plan on working a few hours at a time in the evenings this week. Nice and slow, with nothing to rush me. Also going to allow myself enough time to address any other situations or problems once in there.

Thanks Ethan
I read a hand full of guys that did the easy side, then started the truck, but I was unsure why. That makes a lot of sense now.



And, since I'm not particularly experienced here, you might find a way that's better yet.
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With crayons as part of my daily nutrition, I'm not to sure i'll find any better ways...


