I've never heard them not be called a super 60. But either way, they are beefy. And I like them.
CK5
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2004 Silverado Crew Cab Solid Axle Swap (LLY with ZF 6 speed)
- Thread starter r3dd0g
- Start date
There is a place in Montana, used to be Quad 4x4 but they changed names. They have a lot of stuff for them and the tools for the hub seals and stuff. Not quite so important if you are just running manual hubs and not the vacuum auto ones. Warn makes nice locking hubs for them now also.
I have the Warn hubs so I don't have to have the ford logo... I ordered my rebuild stuff from Ventures Truck Parts. I ordered the hub locks and tool from Amazon.
Anti seize your unit bearings where they go in the knuckle. They shouldn't be a prob where you live and the fords are way easier than the dodges to get apart anyway. I really like those front ends and the Super 60 in the F550. All of our work trucks have them. I wouldn't mind someday maybe doing a complete front and rear F550 axle swap on mine if I keep it a tow rig.
f-350 down is basicly a reg 60 size stuff unit.
f-450-f-550 get the BIGGER inner C out stuff and few other things over the reg size.
I found this out looking for a f-550 front and reading up on specs.
f-450-f-550 get the BIGGER inner C out stuff and few other things over the reg size.
I found this out looking for a f-550 front and reading up on specs.
that guy has crazy prices and nothing is listed in plain view . you have to click and add to basket to start seeing prices. prob to not scare off people as fast.
I had grand plans of all the things I was going to get done this weekend, but then work interrupted and I had to put in 16 hours of unpaid (salaried) time...
Such is life. Enough bitching, time for pictures.
We stripped down the axle to inspect, clean and repaint (it was rusty).
While I had it apart I went ahead and replaced all the seals. The pinion is back in, but I ran out of time to get the carrier reinstalled.
On the bright side, we did spend Friday night camping next to the Gila.
Such is life. Enough bitching, time for pictures.
We stripped down the axle to inspect, clean and repaint (it was rusty).
While I had it apart I went ahead and replaced all the seals. The pinion is back in, but I ran out of time to get the carrier reinstalled.
On the bright side, we did spend Friday night camping next to the Gila.
Looks like way too much fun!
I got to "work" from home today and spent about half of it in the garage to make up for lost time. I painted the housing, reinstalled the carrier, replaced the ball joints, reinstalled the knuckles and installed an ARB diff cover, all without taking any pictures...
If you've never worked with a newer dana 60 (I hadn't), they're kind of a pain in the ass. I rebuilt the shafts, which starts out pretty standard, clean, paint and replace the u-joints.
Then you have to use a special tool to install the "vacuum seal" that seals the hub/knuckle to the shaft. First put the axle in a vice, slide the seal on, put the tool on, then beat the crap out of it until the seal is fully seated on the axle. It laughed when I tried to use a dead blow...
Once the seal is on the axle, lube up the seating surface with anti-sieze, slide it into the housing, make sure you get the splines lined up, reinstall the tool and beat the crap out of it until it's fully seated.
Here's where the axle sits now. I'm having a new set of unit bearings machined for the Chevy pattern, then I can finish it up.
I forgot to mention it in the previous post, but you can see the WFO coilover mounts installed in some of the pictures. They're pretty slick, they bolt on where the coil bucket was, then you weld the top seam to keep them in place.
If you've never worked with a newer dana 60 (I hadn't), they're kind of a pain in the ass. I rebuilt the shafts, which starts out pretty standard, clean, paint and replace the u-joints.
Then you have to use a special tool to install the "vacuum seal" that seals the hub/knuckle to the shaft. First put the axle in a vice, slide the seal on, put the tool on, then beat the crap out of it until the seal is fully seated on the axle. It laughed when I tried to use a dead blow...
Once the seal is on the axle, lube up the seating surface with anti-sieze, slide it into the housing, make sure you get the splines lined up, reinstall the tool and beat the crap out of it until it's fully seated.
Here's where the axle sits now. I'm having a new set of unit bearings machined for the Chevy pattern, then I can finish it up.
I forgot to mention it in the previous post, but you can see the WFO coilover mounts installed in some of the pictures. They're pretty slick, they bolt on where the coil bucket was, then you weld the top seam to keep them in place.
Yeah pretty slick with the tool. There is a different tool for the 04 and older leaf spring ones if you ever do any of those. Most shops we take our trucks to for work just screw them up with a punch.
What is the bracket on top of the inner "C"?
I don't think there would be any way to install it without a tool. You'd completely destroy the seal.
That's the WFO coilover mount that I mentioned at the end of the post there.
are the rotors getting redrilled also . . . 
I already have those.are the rotors getting redrilled also . . .
Do you just redrill the rotor to match the hub? So if you ever need a rotor or unit hearing it has to be machined to fit first? I saw a guy on that other site(arrrrr4x4) that made a good point about this and was just running spacers out back to match the track width front to rear and adapt the rear to the ferd lug pattern so he didn't have any custom machined parts. I guess it's sixes which way to go since really how often do you lose a unit bearing or rotor unless really piling in the miles or hard abuse.
I'll carry a spare unit bearing, the rotor could be deleted with a spacer in the caliper in an emergency.
I'm only running 35s so I don't think I'll be too hard on parts.
I'm only running 35s so I don't think I'll be too hard on parts.
The new springs and shackles showed up today! Thanks SDHQ!
We got the Rear springs installed so we could measure for shocks and shims. This is the Deaver 4" lift springs with lowering shackles that say 3" drop, but measure out to be about 4-5" longer than stock so probably closer to 2.5" drop.
Looks like that centers the wheel nicely in fender. Will you need to trim at all with the flex those will offer?
