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2004 Silverado Crew Cab Solid Axle Swap (LLY with ZF 6 speed)

It drives again! We started out this morning by rolling the axle under the truck for the first time and bolting everything together. I set the caster to 6° and tacked in the brackets for the upper radius arms.

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With everything in place we jacked the axle up and located where we wanted the bump stops and tacked them in place.

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We then dropped the axle back down, pulled the links off to finish welding and paint them, finished welding the bump stop mounts, painted them, installed the bumps, ran the brake lines, bled the brakes, hooked up the driveshaft and took a brake for lunch while the paint dried on the links.

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After lunch we reinstalled the links, dropped the axle down and bolted up the coilovers! All the bolts were tightened (except the track bar and drag link adjusters) and we stood back and admired our work for a bit.

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Here's the truck holding its weight on the front axle for the first time.

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And finally with the tires mounted up!

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After adjusting the steering and track bar a bit, I took it for a test drive. I need to push the axle farther forward, probably another inch, I also need to raise the front about 2" and put in more caster. I think I'll end up raising the rear another notch too (about 3/4").

One of the things I did while prepping the truck was to replace the power steering pump that's been whining for a couple years. The new pump seems to put out way more pressure than the old and blew out all the seals on the steering box, so now I'll need to replace that too. I'm also leaking fuel at the stock fuel filter location since it's pressurized now so I'll get a fuel filter bypass to fix that...

Outside of that I need to run the electric for the air compressor, rear locker and air horn, mount the air horn, run the air hoses from the compressor to the tank, fill the front diff, check the fluid in the t-case (it was leaking) and I need to finish up a few other things before I can take it out. Hopefully that will be next weekend, but probably not till Saturday afternoon or Sunday.
 
Wow this turned out awesome! Are those 10 inch kings?? Man I am curious how this rides compared to stock..
 
Wow this turned out awesome! Are those 10 inch kings?? Man I am curious how this rides compared to stock..

The 3" kit comes with 8" kings.

That a FAST SFA swap!
How'd it ride and handle?

I need to adjust the suspension, for the most part everything was just pulled out of the box, set up the way the instructions read and installed on the truck. It's sitting too low so it hits the bump stops on every little bump (only about 1.5" of uptravel) but when it doesn't hit the stops it's very smooth. I also need to push the axle forward as the tires are getting into the fenders and my caster setting was off a bit so it wanders, I was shooting for 6° but I think I ended up closer to 4, I may also need to adjust the toe in or maybe it's just the new tires.

The leaking fuel filter and steering box means I couldn't drive it much anyways. I'm hoping to get everything dialed in this week and get it out in the dirt this weekend.
 
Lol, I'll leave the jumping to the S-10. The funny thing is that the trailer is what's killing the S-10, not the jumping/rock crawling. I patched the frame on it but it's cracking in a new and exciting place now because we've been dragging the trailer around the last few weekends.
 
I left work early today and spent 5 hours playing with the suspension and steering on the Silverado. I raised the front 2", pushed the axle forward 3/4", adjusted the caster a couple times (at 6° now at ride height) and centered the axle. I also spliced in the ABS wheel speed sensors to they'd plug into the stock harness, filled the front diff and took it on a test drive to dinner.

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It rides much smoother now that it's not constantly bouncing off the bump stops, it's a much nicer ride than stock for sure.
 
going from IRS to that chunky straight axle and still riding better - that's pretty awesome.
 
To be fair, I'm sure it's not going to haul a heavy load as well. There's no way I'd put my cabover back on and head up the hill to Heber (long curvy uphill road).
 
Is there a provision for a front sway bar with the WFO kit or do you just have to come up with something using a Curie bar or something similar?
 
It would be pretty easy to weld on a tab and re-use the stock sway bar. I'm guessing it won't be necessary though since it's a radius arm setup. It felt stable on the road and in corners.

They say with the 4-link kit you need to run a sway bar, but not the radius arm setup. I don't run one on the S-10 either and I don't have any issues there. That's a big part of the reason I like the radius arm setup.
 
Yesterday afternoon I raised the rear suspension about 1", installed some shims to get the driveshaft angles right and replaced the steering box.

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I really wanted to take it to work today so we bled the steering and took it for a drive where it could get some highway time. Everything was going great, it was driving good and smooth although there is a little clunk when turning right just before it gets to the stop that I need to figure out.

About half way to our destination, the dash lit up, ABS lights, brake lights and info telling me to check the braking system... Then as we were pulling into the parking lot I lost steering and brakes... Apparently I didn't get the steering bled properly and we got a bubble in the pump or something. We limped over to a Wal Mart, topped off the fluid and drove home. I tried to bleed it again, but it keeps burping the fluid out the reservoir and not sucking it back in, so I'm not sure what's going on. I didn't have any issues when I replaced the pump and lines before so I'm assuming the issue is in the box somewhere. We poked at it until about 9PM and finally gave up.

I still need to figure out what tripped the ABS light, maybe one of my splices shorted out and popped a fuse, also it looks like the drivers side tire catches the brake line/ABS wire at full driver lock so I need to pull that back a bit, that could have tugged on the wire and broke something.

I also need to figure out the clunk.

Maybe I'll get to drive it to work tomorrow.
 
wheels off ground in front .

engine off. fill p/s resivor .

cycle wheels and keep filling till level stays the same .

pump brakes min 8-10 time to blead out any stored assist pressure in the unit.

fire up for 10-15 sec then turn off. recheck and fill and hand blead as needed.

once the level stays the same fire up and cycle the system .

also good test for hydro boost is engine off. deplete assist build up . hold pedal on floor or close to it . fire engine . it should drop a bit then push back hard at you to normal pedal feel position.

. .

does the abs tone rings have the same count as gm units ? if you have a good scanner with live data go in abs mode and watch the wheel speed for each postion and see if there off front to back . or even on 1 wheel .

hope this helps . . . . and that extra 1" in the back looks way betterrrr now
 
I followed that method to bleed the system already, but it pukes the fluid out the reservoir when you cycle back and forth. I think there's a bubble stuck in the steering box. I'm sure I'll get it, but I just ran out of time last night.

I believe the tone rings have the same count, I did not get the code right away after I spliced the cables (WFO sells a pigtail to do this, but it's ~$150). I drove it for a few miles on Monday and about 10 yesterday before it popped the code. I cleared the code and it came back as soon as I turned the ignition on. Something is shorted out, I just have to figure out where.

Thanks, I think it looks better with the extra lift too. I may still drop the front down a little too just so it stays level when I have some stuff in the back. Part of the reason it looked so bad was the camera angle though, it didn't look that bad in person before.
 

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