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2wd 02' burb to 4wd?

After seeing what the costs are of 'upgrading' a dodge D60 I figure I better look for a ford unit. I know there are major differences between kingpin and ball joint styles. Any opinions on why I shouldn't use a ball joint style? They are much easier to find then king pin. Any particular years to grab or stay away from?
 
NO 99-up stupid duty stuff as there metric bolt pattern rims.

and all the ball joints i have changed over the years compared to king pin parts no thanks on ball joint stuff.

but there is some HEAVY duty b/j stuff if you wana spend the money .
 
So am I crazy? Looking for another axle is gonna take time and cost 1k+. I may need to rebuild from there if its worn. A CAD delete kit is 5-6oo and maybe 200 for the dana 50 hub set-up. How much am I really saving by buying another axle? I will not be doing an extreme wheeling so will the axle housing break? Look back now I sorta wish I had gone with a stock ifs 4wheel truck from the start.

If I do buy the ford 60 I take it I should look for a 98 and older unit? Thanks SweetK
 
Ok set on buying a ford hp unit, I talked to someone selling a good axle local but I missed the sale by one day. Someone beat me to it :( He mentioned having an np241 in his burb and cracking the case in half mud bogging. Is this to be expected with this case? I am looking to set mine up this week. He has me wondering if I should abandon ship and go with the original plan to use a divorced 205. Any thoughts before I commit to running the 241?
 
Good transfer case. Nice low range. Doesn't weigh a ton. Put a skid under it, keep it maintained, and you won't kill it.
 
I'm going to swap my NP246 for a 241 because it's a better unit all around. Manual shift, ability to convert to fixed yoke rear output, and a simpler design than the 246's internal pump design. Do what AJM said and you'll be happy with it.
 
y5mgisi said:
Most any normal person wont brake a 241. You have to be stupid or crazy to brake one.
Click to expand...


That's too funny you say this! My jaw dropped when this guy said he snapped the case mud bogging. I'm waiting for a check in the mail and then the sye kit will be on its way! I'm gonna do a whole rebuild while I can.

Any of you guy's open one to overhaul it? Any advice?

Thanks for the thoughts here
 
I did it! Found another axle set that I think I scored on!

D60 HP Kingpin & D70 with disc!!!!!!!

1200!!!!!!!!

Anyone know what the id numbers could mean? I don't know what the donor vehicle was or the gear set. The frt id tag is unreadable and the rr seams odd to me

HPDay2_zpsf2c193c6.jpg


620093R - supposed to be out of an F2or350

D70Day1_zps6855d693.jpg

rr id tag
D70Tag2_zps11721cd2.jpg
 
Front is just what the doctor ordered. Rear looks to me like a stearling 10.25. No? Better pic of the pumpkin area?
 
yep sterling rear. possible metric pattern 99-up stupid duty rear . check for 8x170 mm pattern lug studs .
 
axlepair_zps5492f20c.jpg


FRT ID tag
HPD60idtag2_zps56a0fd54.jpg


HPD60idtag1_zps2ca7aa3d.jpg


rr tag:

D70Tag3_zps606040e9.jpg


RR wheel fitment - measured from stud to stud - minimal difference but no go

D70wheeltest1_zpsd6c026c2.jpg

D70wheeltest2_zps9fa9b295.jpg


Can't I just open the holes 0.020" - will that be unsafe?
 
oops - how would the wheel run true right. Damn it! I thought I scored the rear as well. I want a full floater with an ebake


any ideas what the rear is worth? I might need to sell it then.
 
front is 88.5-91.5 srw king pin 4.10 gear f350 axle aspr dana site on your bom #

rear might be able to swap hub n rotor over from van or older axle possibley . i know vans didnt get the metric as soon as the trucks did . but that would be reading / searching / test fitting.
 
You still didnt get a bad deal really. $1000-$1200 is about the going rate for that front axle.
 
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