Too much "bitch fest"
Need moar 3D printed project pictures!!
Need moar 3D printed project pictures!!
CK5
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3D Printing Projects - Truck parts and tools
- Thread starter kennyw
- Start date
Drew this in tinkercad. Black is original. Cup holder for a friends car seat. Need to add a radius on the bottom and then get some better filament for a final. 
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- Apr 23, 2016
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I've been drawing files of all outputs in Adobe & Vectric (CNC) along with large art designs with varying practices mixed together for ease of use and effects. I'm using my downtime to teach myself Fusion360 and build some badass work computers. Gone are the days of stacks of disc with a program you owned. Been paying use ransom for years unfortunately.
I'm slowly picking away and pulling the mounting points out of the scanned model and converting them to useable geometry. Most of the effort to reduce the number of triangles makes files that load faster in SolidWorks, but loose too much detail to actually use for reference in modeling. So I'm working with the original scan directly.
My printer and scanner just showed up. Snow storm fun.
An update on my 3D printer experience, and a fair warning to others.....
I am not going to keep printing anything, even PLA, until I hook up an exhaust to outside at a minimum.
I have installed a HEPA/Carbon filter on the exhaust, and only printed PLA thus far, and I still get these side effects. PLA is supposed to be the safest filament to print.
It has been giving us mild headaches and making peoples throats a little strange, like you need to hack up something, it feels like something but nothing you can observe ever comes out, this is with the HEPA filter that supposedly filters over 99% of particles.
I shut it off for a few days and everything went away, then I start printing again and the symptoms come back. Something feels very unhealthy with this stuff. I moved the 3D print setup to the opposite corner upstairs, so I can exhaust it outside. However, not sure if the wife will let me cut a hole in the wall.
If so it may go in the shop and I will cut a hole in the wall there. If I do that, I may put it in an external enclosure, and exhaust that outside. Because Exhaust only the printer exhaust outside won't work when that's off such as with ABS, ASA, PC, PPA, PPS or any other high temp material where the chamber is closed and heated. It also won't work with filament drying as its external to the printer. The printer is not sealed, which is why I haven't printed any of those materials yet even though I have a need and they are sitting there, I am afraid to breathe the much worse fumes, or worse, let my kids breathe the fumes.
This additional enclosure method would also allow anything emitted during filament drying to go outside, I could also prefilter some of the fumes. However, it will take more HVAC energy any time you exhaust something outside while the heat (or AC if you have it) is on.
Here is a link to two options for HEPA filters.
Purchase, or print one...
These guys sell them for multiple printers, just find the one you need.
voxelpla.com
Or print one of these if you have the Bambu H2 series...then buy the filters. I'm sure you can find similar on makerworld for your printer.
Keep in mind, in my experience, this is not enough, you still get harmful fumes and particles that get out elsewhere, such as purging, etc. The factory enclosure is not sealed, it has other vents in the back. It definitely reduces them.
I have several ideas to exit through a dryer vent on the outside wall, add an external fan, remove one of the flaps for the factory external fan and use that at low, maybe 10 - 20% during heated chamber materials, but I would need to add a blocker for the top vent as that automatically opens any time you turn the exhaust fan on and you shouldn't do that with a heated chamber, you just want to create a tiny negative pressure so fumes go out the exhaust and not anywhere else. If you draw in so much air the internal temp drops it can cause quality issues.
I think the ideal thing is to put a HEPA filter on the exhaust, then put the entire 3D printer setup, it in its own separate enclosure (or room), along with the AMS, filament dryers, etc, and vent that entire enclosure outside. You can have a smaller entry than exit to create a small negative pressure in that entire enclosure. You could also filter the inlet o keep the 3D printer itself cleaner. You could even go as far as routing the entry and exit through an exchanger to reclaim some of the lost HVAC energy you are pumping out.
I am not going to keep printing anything, even PLA, until I hook up an exhaust to outside at a minimum.
I have installed a HEPA/Carbon filter on the exhaust, and only printed PLA thus far, and I still get these side effects. PLA is supposed to be the safest filament to print.
It has been giving us mild headaches and making peoples throats a little strange, like you need to hack up something, it feels like something but nothing you can observe ever comes out, this is with the HEPA filter that supposedly filters over 99% of particles.
I shut it off for a few days and everything went away, then I start printing again and the symptoms come back. Something feels very unhealthy with this stuff. I moved the 3D print setup to the opposite corner upstairs, so I can exhaust it outside. However, not sure if the wife will let me cut a hole in the wall.
If so it may go in the shop and I will cut a hole in the wall there. If I do that, I may put it in an external enclosure, and exhaust that outside. Because Exhaust only the printer exhaust outside won't work when that's off such as with ABS, ASA, PC, PPA, PPS or any other high temp material where the chamber is closed and heated. It also won't work with filament drying as its external to the printer. The printer is not sealed, which is why I haven't printed any of those materials yet even though I have a need and they are sitting there, I am afraid to breathe the much worse fumes, or worse, let my kids breathe the fumes.
This additional enclosure method would also allow anything emitted during filament drying to go outside, I could also prefilter some of the fumes. However, it will take more HVAC energy any time you exhaust something outside while the heat (or AC if you have it) is on.
Here is a link to two options for HEPA filters.
Purchase, or print one...
These guys sell them for multiple printers, just find the one you need.
3D Printing Accessories | Made In USA - Bambu Lab, Prusa, & Creality
3D printer upgrades for Bambu Lab P1P, P1S, P2S, X1C, H2D, H2C, H2S, A1, and A1 mini. 3D printer 2-stage HEPA and Activated filter, and anti-vibration feet. All at an affordable price. Free shipping and bulk discounts available.
voxelpla.com
Or print one of these if you have the Bambu H2 series...then buy the filters. I'm sure you can find similar on makerworld for your printer.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1459796-h2d-h2s-angled-exhaust-filter?from=search#profileId-1522028
Keep in mind, in my experience, this is not enough, you still get harmful fumes and particles that get out elsewhere, such as purging, etc. The factory enclosure is not sealed, it has other vents in the back. It definitely reduces them.
I have several ideas to exit through a dryer vent on the outside wall, add an external fan, remove one of the flaps for the factory external fan and use that at low, maybe 10 - 20% during heated chamber materials, but I would need to add a blocker for the top vent as that automatically opens any time you turn the exhaust fan on and you shouldn't do that with a heated chamber, you just want to create a tiny negative pressure so fumes go out the exhaust and not anywhere else. If you draw in so much air the internal temp drops it can cause quality issues.
I think the ideal thing is to put a HEPA filter on the exhaust, then put the entire 3D printer setup, it in its own separate enclosure (or room), along with the AMS, filament dryers, etc, and vent that entire enclosure outside. You can have a smaller entry than exit to create a small negative pressure in that entire enclosure. You could also filter the inlet o keep the 3D printer itself cleaner. You could even go as far as routing the entry and exit through an exchanger to reclaim some of the lost HVAC energy you are pumping out.
Pulling usable geometry from an STL graphic model and turning it into something real that I can build from is a whole new level of tedious. But I think the results will be much better fit and look when I am done than trying to blindly measure parts with traditional methods when they have complex geometry like this.
The gray circles represent the center location and max height for the gauge without any interference with the stock bezel (surface of the clear plastic cover on the stock cluster assy).
The blue surface is the back plane of the gauge cluser converted into a flat surface (green around edges is the rough geometry copied from the scan).
I still need to add two more dash bezel mounts and connect the dots and make a printable pair of plates that can be bolted together as it is too large for one print on my printer.
The gray circles represent the center location and max height for the gauge without any interference with the stock bezel (surface of the clear plastic cover on the stock cluster assy).
The blue surface is the back plane of the gauge cluser converted into a flat surface (green around edges is the rough geometry copied from the scan).
I still need to add two more dash bezel mounts and connect the dots and make a printable pair of plates that can be bolted together as it is too large for one print on my printer.
I watch this guy on the YouTube. I just saw he sells 3D printer files for dimple dies and also an oil catch can. As well as some other things. Never though of dimple dies being 3D printed.
weldmetalsonline.com
Weld Metals Online
The number one source for metal welding supplies, welding test coupons, welding kits, consumables, and great TIG and MIG welding machines from Fronius, PrimeWeld, and CK Worldwide! We are welder owned!
weldmetalsonline.com
I would guess 3D printed dimple dies can only last a few uses before they need replaced or something?I watch this guy on the YouTube. I just saw he sells 3D printer files for dimple dies and also an oil catch can. As well as some other things. Never though of dimple dies being 3D printed.
Weld Metals Online
The number one source for metal welding supplies, welding test coupons, welding kits, consumables, and great TIG and MIG welding machines from Fronius, PrimeWeld, and CK Worldwide! We are welder owned!
lots of bead rolling dies are plastic . depending on use the plastic holds up real good .I watch this guy on the YouTube. I just saw he sells 3D printer files for dimple dies and also an oil catch can. As well as some other things. Never though of dimple dies being 3D printed.
Weld Metals Online
The number one source for metal welding supplies, welding test coupons, welding kits, consumables, and great TIG and MIG welding machines from Fronius, PrimeWeld, and CK Worldwide! We are welder owned!
I jumped over to the dash cam mount on my Toyota to finish it up. Adding the small detail serrated lines to lock rotation required changing nozzles to the smaller 0.2mm size. With a successful test print in PLA, I jumped to ABS since I was going to be outside working, then aired out the house before the wife got home. But I won't be doing that again, it lingered a bit.
I'll need to make a externally ventilated space in the shop that can also be heated to do any more with ABS. I only tried one print since I had it on hand already and needed to wait a day for plain PTEG to arrive.
Today, I've adjusted some settings for better quality and I'm running PTEG.
I'll need to make a externally ventilated space in the shop that can also be heated to do any more with ABS. I only tried one print since I had it on hand already and needed to wait a day for plain PTEG to arrive.
Today, I've adjusted some settings for better quality and I'm running PTEG.
Starting a print on the new cup holder design. This one is deeper with a tapered cup holder that better matches common drinks like a 12 oz can, 20 oz bottle, or 20 oz fast food cup, and my favorite coffee cup. I also added better watermarking on the front but kept it easy to use the same style badge if someone wants a custom badge. The filament usage goes up to 750 g from 600 g on the original design, but I think this one matches the 80s door panels better.
I just kicked off my first test print and it is going to run over 30 hours due to the settings biased towards quality this time using variable layer heights to improve details like the top radius surfaces.
I just kicked off my first test print and it is going to run over 30 hours due to the settings biased towards quality this time using variable layer heights to improve details like the top radius surfaces.
I fought with getting good prints out of PTEG for a couple days and couldn't figure out the issue. Overhangs were just failing but everything else looked great. I finally swapped back from my 0.2mm nozzle to the 0.4mm nozzle and the material started printing perfectly. I think I had a partial plug in the small nozzle and wasn't doing a good job trying to clear it. But I did get good parts finally, just not with the fine level of detail I wanted for this small part.
New version test printed and test fit.
Another feature I wanted to add to the badge were tabs that would allow them to snap in place. So I printed a test piece and a blank badge. First attempt didn't work as the tabs were too large on the badge, second attempt was a success with slightly smaller tabs.
View attachment 20260201_194143_1.mp4
View attachment 20260201_194143_1.mp4
30+ hours print time for this design, but I'm very happy with the results.
PTEG-CF, carbon fiber infused PTEG. The carbon helps produce a better surface finish and slightly stronger material properties than the base PTEG alone. I can get stronger parts printing in ABS or ASA, but I need to add external ventilation or move my printer out to the shop before I can run that material.
I plan to run any interior parts out of ASA because of the UV resistance vs ABS. I have designed a angled mount for my Holley ProDash that is a two piece sandwich style. I just need to tweak the dimensions.
However, I am at the point where I won't run PLA or PETG, or any plastic 3D print, without external ventilation either. I don't feel it's safe after getting scratchy throats and mild headaches from PLA even with a HEPA filter on the exhaust. I think a lot of the fumes also come from the purging. I plan to put an enclosed purge container on the back instead of the chute, unless I just put the whole printer inside an enclosure and exhaust that outside.
However, I am at the point where I won't run PLA or PETG, or any plastic 3D print, without external ventilation either. I don't feel it's safe after getting scratchy throats and mild headaches from PLA even with a HEPA filter on the exhaust. I think a lot of the fumes also come from the purging. I plan to put an enclosed purge container on the back instead of the chute, unless I just put the whole printer inside an enclosure and exhaust that outside.
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I don't know if you think the HEPA filters take out anything other than particles. Your throught is scratchy from the fumes, you need to see what can if any filter these out.
Outside ventilation is the only real safe solution.
